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Rhino, plastique, Zebra And family. team NET state victoria.
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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its not your fault they did that. when i get myself a multimetre ill see if i can even selvage any cells. but 3 worked quite well anyway as i can fast charge now with normal matches 3min every half an hour should be quite do-able as i can charge all 3 packs at once.

motor still goes and seames to have stoped smoking again and as i have no form of social life im cleaning it and going to see how it goes
more thoughts on redesign.
i would like to hide the metal subframe if i have one in choping board for extra armor and the apearence of no metal.
Higher ground clearence at the back if i stick with the same base i will have to hollow it out a little for mounting.. it was always a concern of mine that i did not have enough clearence and proved with the fight against bender. or an option may be to try and implement something similar to Stainless steal if i go 4x4 but i dont know if the ibc will like me if i did that. i might look into finding out what type of drills he runs estimated current ect, but i remember he runs a fan on the ibc box.

random ideas: a drill at the back of the bot the drill motor would get pissed and break very quickly i would suspect but its just an idea for a first weaponed bot that is easy to do.
An old idea i had was some form of powered spike through the wedge to partly flip partly damage the botom of the enamy robot but ran out of time to investigate fully. (was looking at worm drives or linear acuator about the best i found was car jack but it was quite large) eg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/dsg.gif
a pnumatic system would also be cool but more complicated i woudlnt mind doing one at a later date though.
i will probably ditch the PC like segested because it just got riped to pieces party becasue of how i mounted it with screws that got cought by the spiners . the spiners had a harder time getting thogh the chopping bored. but badger would probably have done it if he didnt have the PC first.
Silica will probably be replaced with uerthane which i think IG uses if i do go with such a thing again but a better way of mountingg it will be developed so even after a few weeks it is not still wet. thinking pre drying then sandwiche it in between 2 layers of something.
i will probably make my own box for the IBC unless someone can recommend a good one that jaycar or someone else still sell (the one on the wikka i dont htink is avalible) as that took up a large amount of space. I was hapy with the switch preformance but i would add a way to turn it off from above next time like most robot seamed to use but after seeing IG lose due to his switch and seeing just how small a team whiachi switch rearly is (i imagined it much bigger) that looks to be a great option for the future and mounting is so much easyer. that or use a system similar to brets so not such a large whole is exposed. I would not mind shockmounting the roof a little with some rubber or similar but with hight restrictions that may be hard to achive.
Unfortunatly i did not get to test how i go up side down but with all the weight in the back i think it would atleast move.
Weight distrubtion i was quite hapy with. my wedge did not lift off the ground much and i got good traction. a tad more weight behind the wheels for a little more pushing power maby but not much.

(im just posting anyting as i think of it so i can read back later and not forget all the things as they come to mind. it may not make any sense 2 anyone and be very jumbled

Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


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silicon wont dry unless its exposed to air. the vinegar or whatever it is in there needs to evaporate.
Are you trying to make laminated armour or something?

You could try fiberglass or something like that perhaps.
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Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:29 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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yep with some give in the silicon for shock absorption. all the parts 2 or so cm set (so up to 4.4cm or so thickness total) some a bit more time will tell. ill experiment with diferent tequniques with things in a few weeks and see what hapens after a while and hit it with big hammers chances are i would probably ditch the idea i had anyway after a while

Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:41 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


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lamination is a good way of getting stiffness but like i said silicon won't dry like that. I'd try getting some canvas or something and soaking that in the silicon sort of like a light weight car tyre.

Hard part is mounting it
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Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:06 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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one of my pieces was done on gladwrap and sandweged in seamed to go ok for a bit but mounting was the problem. i never thought of canves ill add it to my to try listq

Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:09 pm 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Brett had something similar to silicon holding the IG bash bar on, but the name eludes me... That worked pretty well!
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Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: Vic


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Sikaflex

Polyurethane
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Post Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:35 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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Thanks Gary

motor is stuffed i tryed to replace it on my gearbox (as im running andrew mod gearboxes) but it will not go on properly and while it will run with electisity i can hardly move it by hand so ill have to look into that which is a pain.

looking into cad software. as i suck at rhino and cant owrk out anything i was looking at solidworks (done it at uni) or inventor but cant quite decide so ill need to save up for that. once i get one i can do some redesig of plastique for version 2 (nothingh can be selvaged so its just as easy to go for a rebuild and try and fix a few weak spots while im at it. cad practice is always good anyway.
might look into some angled walls as i think i read something abut them being more spiner defensive.

Post Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:07 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Hey Sean i have that problem sometimes. you need to use the original face plate and motor washer as some are different sizes. sometimes they are too thin and bind the drive up when done up tightly due to the motor pressing on the first stage plate./
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Post Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:50 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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Thanks glen
i tryed the faceplates only other thing i can think of is the gear off the motor and switch them. try 1 of that failed worced comes to worce ill just get another andrewmod if he still does them. i want a few more anyway

Post Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
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Location: Gold Coast


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Save up for Inventor? Shocked A licienced copy of Inventor is more then $2500. I use a pirated version of Inventor 10 and have been told that since it is on a personal computer, rather then my companies, the guys at Autodesk don't really care. I haven't bothered downloading Inventor 2008 (12) yet as it would mean removing some movies from my computer but my boss is pressuring me to get it.

Post Tue Jan 22, 2008 4:47 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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ive been in contact with a distributer of inventor and aparently as i am an engineering student i can get the student one for $275 with a 2 year license with Inventor 2008 + AutoCAD Mechanical 2008 + AutoCAD 2008 .
Ive been downloading inventor LT that is free for a trial untill may.

Daniel are there any major advantages to inventor over solidworks in your opinioin?

Post Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:24 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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changing over the final gear reduction in the gearbox made it a lot easyer to insert the motor and it now turns a bit harder then the one good but turnes none the less. it is a lot louder then the other so im trying not to run it. might just have to give up and get a whole replacement done.

ive made most of my parts for v1 have been made in inventor lt but the trial one does not do assembly's so its not much help. it did prove i can use inventor though without any time learning it which is a +.

more redesign:
V1.


wires out of the back of the motors need to be shortened. infact all wires need to be fixed as proven by how close rapture got during the rumble and could have taken out the lights and my main power wires where directly behind them.
crapy possible repersentation of V2. green kind of color on the back is a metal bash plate that would have bolts welded to it (not acual bolts that threaded stuff i made the spike out of but thicker) and be bolted to the inner frame with a posible layer of silicon soaked canvas (or another way to add silicon or polyuerthane as gary uses) sandwedged in for shock obsorption. the sides will not have polycarb probably a second layer of chopping board again the canvas (or other) between them.
i will look into getting some acual uhmw PE from a plastic shop but i doubt think they would like to deal with me with small one off orders.
no polycarb would be on the sides but its 2 anoying to remove in that pic
hopeing for A123's which will srink the batery bays even without it i will make them smaller by haveing a thiner layer of rubber or foam. i need a smaler box for the ibc. in general the amount of air armor will be reduced everywhere. the wedge is wider. unless i get a better switch it will stay the same but with a way to turn it off from above as thats what everyone else seamed to do and is probably the safest option.

edit: the wedge diference will be larger then it apears there. i should get a top view pic of my bot that would make looking at it easyer
another pic made by sid http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/take22.jpg

Post Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:08 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


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Go to steel, its way better than plastic for most things robot related.
And probably cheaper in many respects.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Post Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:58 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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i know but i want to see how far i can take plastic. the rebuild will have some metal probably but nothing is set.
my other design im working on is all metal at this stage. (it will also be a crap bot but its something i want to build)

Also i dont have a welder and im not 2 sure if the uni will like me using theres much

edit: i guess i could use my bash plate mounting idea over the entire bot and see how that goes.
metal would defetnly be cheaper as plastic would probably need a rebuild almost every event if not every

Post Sun Jan 27, 2008 10:04 am 
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