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Rhino, plastique, Zebra And family. team NET state victoria.
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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Vic only events aren’t too destructive but drawing IG could cause some weight loss.
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Post Sun Jan 27, 2008 10:41 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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i think i would be running red wheels against him lol.
o well i have someone who welds as part of his job offering to help out which may be handy in the future

Post Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:33 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/top.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/side.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/inside.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/bottom.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/directdrivedrum.jpg

before anyone states the obvious i know this will be useless and if anything might just make driving inverted a pain with no gain.
idea is to get a rearly grippy tire and as a bot drives up onto the wedge i can switch direction of the middle wheel (with a directional motor most likely. current thoughts are a modifyed Pic Relay Controller if a low current drill or posibly a costly Victor 883 for banebot). once i wedge someone i can use the wheel(s) to push help hold them in place while i push them into a wall or the other way to push them over the top. i was thinking a drum might work best but getting a lot of grip on a drum would be very hard. urethane might help but the drum might have to be plastic for that. (im not thinking a weapon drum like reboot more like a bunch of wheels all next to each other joined together over 10cm or more.) drum would also be way harder to spin up. (spining wheel size and position are extremely rough )

also i know sketches are not to standard

Post Mon Feb 04, 2008 2:31 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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After watching the dvd and become highly motivated again, The fact i have 24/7 assess to solidworks 07 at the uni comp labs and the main reason I rearly did not feal like studying Eng Maths even though im not very good at it. So today instead i spent in the basement of the science building and i present an extreamly early version of "C4"

Before starting i wrote this. A lot of it is probably useless it was as a guide for me as i thought of things

Weapon system will be similar to the original minimower at this stage as I believe it is a nice and simplism way to get into a weapon based robot. Drill type weapon motor. I guess I could always do a reboot style with scooter motor instead.
Drum will be friction drive.
Lightish drum 3kg rough working max mass. 2 teeth. Possibly attached with screws like Helios for easy repair and replacement. Probably small length drum.
Weapon motor ideas so far. Standard drill motor, DSE 18v blue drill (900RPM), DSE 18v 2 stage(run at 1100 RPM (not much torque), DSE 18v 2 stage (400RPM Max torque 22Nm.), 18v Dewalt (old or new), banebot.
I doubt V1 will be invertable as I will most likely run 18v DSE to drive it and they prefer small wheels.
Weapon and mounts held together with steel or other apropate metal. Plastics for outer armour if possible even if it will weaken my chance of sucsess.
2 find out.
What is better torque or speed? (Guessing reasonable high speed with not bad torque so 18v DSE blue is my pick ATM. But original minimower was a high torque low speed from wiki. Reboot is high speed lowish torque. Misfortune quite high speed reasonable torque. Could be wrong with these assumptions. )
Good drum diameter.
Drum mass.
Where on earth to find such a thing (drum).
Good drum length.


So far solidworks states my drum is 4.7Kg with solid axle going all the way though so that needs to be lightened and shortened only viable way i can think to do that though is make a curved robot or a thiner diameter drum (v1000011). There is a little bit of room i guess i can remove to make bot thiner.
Base is 3mm steel. Sides 7mm Steel. Top 3mm PC, back 3mm Steel.
Wheels may need to be bigger as there isnt much clearence from the bottom.


First CAD
Second CAD i did with weight distribution that is remotely useful
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/c41000011.jpg Smaller drum version of v100001.

All up including wirewing/ welding and not including teath, a wall behind drum or useful armor i am just over a kg over weight. So this whole design i did today will probably have to be done from scratch. O well everything a learning experance right? I was guessing/ trying to remember the mass of parts then added a bit to be on the safe side. ATM total estimated weight 15.5-16.5Kg.

I know the drum weapon motor mount hits the drum thats because i coudn't be bothered cading a new one so i just used an Andrew mod. I also know my cad is prity terrible. The 3 things on the back are A123 battery's. Relay. TW switch



I still plan on making a new version of plastique as well. that will probably be the next thing i do and over time i will slowly work on C4. thinking of getting plastique a scorpion xxl and another spectrum receiver.
Would have Cadded that up but i first want to cad the old version and atm it is a doorstop for my room.
Basic changes are wider wedge.
Everything more compact.
keep rough weight distribution as it was quite good. Look into smaller wheels.
higher ground clearance. work out a way to mill the chopping board so i can mount the motors/gearbox lower down.
smaller battery holders the others where great for protecting the battery's but just 2 big and i dont think i need the extra protection.
smaller IBC box or a scorpion.
Better secureing of roof so its harder for the opponent to get a grip of.
posibly look into a better drill motor like the bosch 14.4v single speed.
Make a set of 'explosive armor' for an exhibition event or match or just something to keep the croud more interested and make the enemy robot look even better (basically degrade the polycarb outer layer).
And take better care of my normal use outer armor.

[/img]

Post Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:03 pm 
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kkeerroo
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 1459
Location: Brisbane


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yeh. I remimber thay didn tech much spellng at uni either.

An easy drum would be a bit of steel pipe with some Bunnings type plastic wheels for end caps. If your going for a low speed drum then it doesn't need to be too high quality.
I would also recommend sloping the sides and rear of the robot to help with both defense and to strengthen the whole assembly.
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Post Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:41 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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It will be very hard to drop the excess weight. I would look at making the drum lighter by shortening it and using a thinner wall. Also look at using thinner steel on the sides and using Bisalloy to make up for the thinner material. If you can save weight elsewhere, I think a direct-drive scooter motor will make the best weapon drive.
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Post Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:12 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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My spelling is quite bad at the best of times and on the net unless it is an email it is just even worse i should work on it.

Nick how would you think of attaching the scooter motor for direct drive? unless it is physically in the drum only way i can think of is friction (reboot) or chain style (misfortune) both of which are not direct drive.
Angus suggested a fan motor so ill also look into that. I was avoiding looking into them originally due to the fact they are quite powerful.
Re-looking with fresh eyes the drum seams far too long. some (most) of my CAD models are also quite awful should think of working on them.
First drafts are bound to be full of problems.
Thanks for the suggestion about Bisalloy.

Planing stage for this will probably be at least 6 months with construction complete for robowars 09. Thats the current time frame anyway. And the weapon is not meant to be a huge high powered thing. My aim is to start slow and work my way up to an effective weapon system.

Post Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:07 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Sorry, I should have been more precise: I meant to mount the friction wheel direct to the scooter motor - all the other options you mentioned were via gearboxes.

If you are not rushing into this. you will get far better results using a timing belt drive. it is more efficient, you can pick the gear reduction easily and the motor is less likely to be damaged.
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Post Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:40 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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So Similar to how Misfortune runs the weapon but scooter instead of fan motor?
Ill do a cad using it when I have some free time

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/scooterc4v100003.jpg
Shows the rough size of the drum I want to eventually have compared to the current cad (except with a scooter friction drive)
I have no idea how I would make such a drum fit unless I did one of Angus's suggestions. Drumette or something along those lines I think it was called. ( like a mini drum in the middle of the bot a mix between a drum and a horizontal spinner ) ill actually make a CAD of that soon as well as it could be a good place to start. Things can always change in future versions.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
[/end_useless_post]


(Is the spelling much better? I put far more effort then normal online posting for this post)

Post Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:35 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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With a vic event coming up soon hopefully, my lack of time to make any form of weapon bot and plastique looking extreamly sad (aprox 1/3 of structure needs to be replaced at least) i decided it would probably be easyer to just start again changing a few things
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/plastiquev2aftermeet1.jpg
The outside parts are the old parts for plastique. For some reason the sizes seam a little off to me i included the size of the drill motor and wheel would someone be kind enough to see if that would be in the rough ballpark as dont have access to mine ATM. It would be greatly appreciated.
Not shown in the pic but the wedge may be made out of a steal and the top rest of it be the PC. For armor around the frame in the future i am thinking a form of interchangeable armors. One set of steal. A set of polycarb with rubber spaced evenly behind it for some shock absorptions probably dumping all the silicone. and a set of ones made out of the same stuff as the sides (18mm or so chopping board). for its first event it will probably have no extra armor or just some 9mm or so chopping board as used on the base.
Edit All mesurments in mm

Post Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:08 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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Zebra made its debue today with a Al wedge unlike plastique (plastques PC wedge may have acualy gone better)
Leasons learnt. Axe bots could get into my shell between the wege and the roof section.
2mm Al may be even more useless then 3mm PC.
On a floor where there can be dirt and stuff use red wheels. The andersons also have a bit of wheel missing now thanks to black and white or 6x7
Double the ground clearence was a great idea.

All up a good day. Zebra won 2 fights and also the 3way at the end to come second.
Overall very hapy the most damage besides the cratches and bit of a bent Al wedge came from an air rifle and that is only a tiny crack in the polycarb where the screw was nothing worth replacying so its good to go whenever the next fight is.
Shock Absorbsion armor seams to have been effective although there where not any high KE spinners so it will be interesting to see what damage bender, badger or worce would do.
weight distro was ok. Still cant drive straight need to fix that. A little bit of weight could be usefull behind the wheels posible spikes to make the weight slighly usefull but far thicker then what i had last time. Still would be easy to break
Vid and pics comming soon.

Post Sun May 18, 2008 9:05 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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slight update. some of the people at the build day in vic saw the basics of my new thatbot codenamed rhino. It needs a bigger axe im thinking suppercheep like the team nmo bots. it will have an attempt at angled polycarb armor over 18mm or so chopping board except for the angle armor and no silicon similar to plastiquewith some rubber mounti at robowars and then a polycarb layer on the inside to help protect the ibc and batterys.


for zebra i am thinking of remaking the outer armor so instead of 2 thin choping board sheets (1.2mm i think each is) sepearated by rubber and then rubber and a layer of polycarb replace the thin chopping board with the thicker 1.8 so it may stand a chance of servival at battleshead.
I am also thinking of making the thick armor for rhino and bring it so i can have a very slight improvemnt over the wedge at battleshead instead but the internals will not be as well protected so if the shell is breached damage to important items needed for sidetracked event 2 weeks later will be at risk due to the less space inside. It would however mean i dont need to find some suitable steel for the wedge of zebra in time and polycarb while not surviving at sidetracked will go far better then anything non steal i could posible bring to battleshed.

Post Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:03 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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still have not done anything on my bots dam geelong. Anyway it is looking more likly then not i will be takeing zebra to battleshed WITH the thin armor and bunings Al wedge that got lots of dents from an axe i hate to think what a spiner but with just 1 weekend before battleshed to build stuff and being so far behind with uni its not looking good. The vic event is looking even worce unless i survive battleshed ok wich is not going to hapen. i might just need to stick some chopping board on the sides and hope for the best.
Also a tad worried about flam bots at battleshed as i might end up making a plastic mess on there floor (will melted chopping board stick to sydneys floor) could be interesting

Post Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:52 pm 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Erm sean you know it's 13-14th september right? Smile
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Post Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:57 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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yep

Post Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:50 pm 
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