@ Jake - Note sure what you mean by the switching time being slower; you mean the tansition time? If the ESC is not driving an inductive load and is fairly well designed, the PCM output should be a fairly good square wave. With enough current capability, the ESC will turn my FETS on pretty quickly. I was still going to include discharge diodes to turn the FETs off quick as possible. The alternative is to lift the logic level input to the bridge and feed one of the 12A Microchip FET drivers. The plan is to use 6 large FETs, which will sink more current than the Lipo can source and dissapate very little heat under normal running conditions. For the money, its worth an experiment.

Its like using a pilot valve to open a 2nd valve to open a 3rd
Each time you add another valve to the chain you add another transition time, more inductance etc.

Probably best to try that rather than modifying the board.
Otherwise you might as well just make your own.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

A question on timing belts and pulleys.

What is the correct width belt for drive wheels in a feather? Where is the best place to get them?
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

9-10mm wide is probably the best comprimise. HTD pitch takes more power then the others.

http://www.automotsys.com.au/nuova.html - a few of us by the T5 pulleys for our weapons. there very very cheap.

or www.smallparts.com.au is the other option for the other sizes. fairly expensive tho
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Thank you, sir.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

T5 10mm for "normal power drives". T5 15mm for powerfull drives.

T10 20 for heavies.

But I would go for small chain, it can transmit the same, or more force, pricetag shouldn't be that different, but has 1 BIG advantage. You can adapt the length yourself.

Just buy a certain length, buy or make the sprockets, and adjust to your own taste.

Thanks. Is there much difference in the weight of chain as opposed to belts?
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

The weight difference will be messurable I'm afraid.Even using 6 mm chain (1/4"). Timing belt pullies are most of the time ali, sprockets steel.
The belt is a few steel wire loops and some polyurethane, the chain is steel.

On the other hand, the ease of replacement and the lower pricetag are reasons of chosing chain and sprockets for me next time.
I don't like to wait 2 weeks for a replacement belt. I'd rather pull out a length of chain from the box, splice it together and have to machine going again.

iff you make your own sprockets out of ali they are lighter and hold up ok as long as you have a litle lubrication they dont last as log as steel but then who runs their robot drives for hundreds of hours continiously

Are there commercially available crawler tracks (tank treads) that would be suitable for feathers? I am looking for a set that is 250 mm - 300 mm. I am aware that wheels are better suited, but I would like to try tracks anyway.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

quote:

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Originally posted by Rotwang:
There are 2 main types, linears and switch modes.

Cheap and simple Linears.

Complex, relatively expensive, and efficient switch modes.

I just use the linear’s.

http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/000/LM340T5.php

About $1.20 add a heatsink of a drill controler and job done.

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Direct connect, in the past I use to put a ceramic cap between earth on RX and frame of bot to give the RX a ground plane but since Spectrums came along I don’t even do that.

I still put caps across motor brushes so as not to mess up anyone running radio susceptible to interference.
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Satisfaction is proportional to effort and results.

need help modding psu.

I have +12v grnd +3.3v +5v a "green on" a grey a "blue -12v" a brown and a "purple +5vusb


What gose where?

So far i have +12v and grnd for charger i have green wire hooked to grnd
whats the grey brown and blue for do i need to hook them up to anything?
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Tim Team Reaper.

nah just leave them.

take your 12v power from the yellow wires on the molex plugs.

If your charger complains about undervoltage shutdown type thing then you need to put a load on the 5v (red) wires.

A car blinker light seems to work well or alternately you could make up a resistor pack, you want ~> 1 amp draw to get it working well.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

It will not turn on.

The brown gose to +3.3v i found on the net and the grey "power good" i think needs a resistor.
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Tim Team Reaper.