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funbotics - new class
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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sounds fine to me as long as it bolts onto some surrounding MDF.

Heres my proposal for your approval.

I call it the "Spruce Moose", and it will carry two hundred passengers from New York's Idyllwild Airport to the Belgian Congo in seventeen minutes!!





specs:

Drive -
- 300w scooter motors driving 4 wheels via a serpentine chain system.
- 150mm metal trolley wheels.
- top speed ~ 25mph (double cobras speed)
- the wheels bolt to the side of of the robot on special steel carriers that bolt to the sides.



Armour / Frame -
- 12mm MDF and 3mm on the top and bottom.
- 10mm x 10mm square aluminium strips with drilled and tapped holes hold most of the internal panels together while the front weapon is held on with 3mm aluminium L bracket.

Electronics -
- A123 6 cell for the drive and an 11.1v Lipoly for the weapon
- Sidewinder esc on the drive
- plush 30A controller for the weapon

Weapon -
- 500mm saw blade weighing 500 grams.
- powered by a teensy C3530 brushless motor.
- gear reduction is approximately 4:1 so speed is about 4000rpm
- o ring transmission

i think that about covers it!

questions/suggestions/points of order whatever needs to be said.

probably about the speed of the weapon i guess is the only part in question. considering the motor size (800 watts) i dont think itll be none too powerful.

and also the wheel attachments. they only bolt to the wood even though its two pieces welded together so i think those will be okay too.

P.S rhino isnt liking rendering the 50 + bolts Laughing
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Post Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:43 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4435
Location: Sydney


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Looks like the stuff.
You might want to use some of the steel weight allowance (for electronics) to box up the batteries in something solidish (and perhaps put the female connectors on the battery leads), I'm imagining in this class batteries exiting the bot could be somewhat common.
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Post Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:22 am 
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Jaemus
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Joined: 01 Apr 2009
Posts: 2674
Location: NSW


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very nice!

good use of Mr Burns quote Smile

Post Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:27 pm 
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Damien (not Damian)



Joined: 15 Sep 2005
Posts: 327
Location: The other side of The Wall...Melbourne


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That's a very nice model... Razz
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Post Fri Jun 19, 2009 4:35 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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hows everyone else looking or am i the only one again Laughing

question - how does MDF go with countersunk bolts. theres only 8 holes in the base to hold the motors on and id like the ground clearance to be over 4mm. so was hoping to countersink the motor mount bolts. there M6.

there in the middle of the base plate basically so not too near any edges.
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Post Mon Jun 29, 2009 5:19 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Countersunk screws can pull thru MDF. For M6 screws holding motors, you should be fine though.

I have been collecting parts and making a few bits, but its not nearly done yet Embarassed

Post Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:37 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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cool stuff.

another question (this wood stuff is new to me Laughing )

can you form or bend MDF about 6mm thick? i want to make a shape thats like this \_____/ but the angles will be nowhere near that much. maybe 30 degrees from the horizontal line or so.

i swear ive seen it done with water or something like that but cant find anything on it now :/

if i can do that itll save me tons of work on mounting the back end.
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Post Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:53 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Not as far as i'm aware.
You can bend normal timber with steam and such like but MDF would just swell up and break the glue joints i'd assume.
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Post Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:03 pm 
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Fish_in_a_Barrel



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 673
Location: Perth, Western Australia


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All I can think of is to cut the pieces around the diagonal MDF so that it fits in like a puzzle piece.
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Post Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:10 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Short answer is no Laughing You can bend 3mm MDF thru a shallow curve & then glue-up several layers, or you can "slice & dice" a thicker part to make it bend, but strength is always lost.

I would try & stick with straight panels joined with brackets & bolts - its the best option allowed in the rules. Your bot is probably illegal anyway, it has 100% steel and rubber armour down the sides, very clever! Laughing

Post Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:04 pm 
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