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Singularity - Team Nightshade
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timmeh
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Joined: 20 Jul 2004
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Location: Victoria


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If you mean me well it took another 9 days to get it after they had redieved my money and that was after they sent it express for me cos it took so long to get there.thank you to them as they didnt charge me extra for that Very Happy
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Post Wed Nov 24, 2004 8:31 pm 
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ffej
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Joined: 22 Jun 2004
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Location: Kurrajong, NSW


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I ordered the stuff on thursday, but because he didnt have the DeWalt drill motors in stock, it took a few days to get the order out. Aparently he sent them mid Monday their time, so im hoping they get here before Thursday (I hope they do, cause ive got a mufti day on Friday and I soooo wanna wear the Team Nightmare shirt Smile )
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Post Wed Nov 24, 2004 9:18 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Sounds like you are up-sizing to Dewalts - good move! Will it still be a 6 wheeler or going back to 4? Its about time we started getting away from cheap chinese drill motors and into some quality - please keep us posted.
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Post Wed Nov 24, 2004 9:32 pm 
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ffej
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Well, this version still uses the cheap XU1's, but but for the next one I hope to be using two or four DeWalts. The main reason I got the DeWalts this time was for Catalyst EVO, and ill put out a bit more about that as it progresses from vapour / POP to the real thing.

A question for anyone with propo controllers (IBC, RS80D, Vantec, Electronize etc). Do you find that the output voltage from your controller is much lower than the battery voltage ? Anyone corrected it ? Even after re-calibrating my RS80D, I still get an output 2-3V lower than the battery voltage. I haven't really played with the acceleration cureves or ramping yet, which could fix the problem, but thought ide ask the quesion anyway.
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Post Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:26 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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If you are talking about the output voltage to the motors, I'm sure I dont have to tell you that its a pulse-width chopped square wave, so if you're using some sort of multimeter to measure it, then even at 99% power, the short width pulses at 0v might confuse it and cause it to read lower.

If you are reading it with a 'scope and looking at the actual peak voltage on the top of the square wave then I would expect it to be up to 0.5 to 1v lower than the battery supply voltage due to the .005 - .011ohm resistance of the two fets in the bridge.

at full power though, there should be a practically DC voltage no more than a volt or so lower.. you might have some resistance in your wiring. at the sort of power levels you're talking (I'm guessing 60-80 amps), milliohms are enough to lose 0.5v
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Post Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:59 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
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I can not see a voltage drop through my Electronize controllers with my multimeter.

"The end result is a resistance of only 0.0023 Ohm. This means that the MOSFET's will drop only about 0.07 volts at a full 30 amp output." http://www.electronize.co.uk/model_electronics_frames.htm

Post Thu Nov 25, 2004 5:05 am 
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ffej
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Joined: 22 Jun 2004
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This is happens both with load, and no load on the outputs. This was with just a cheap multimeter, ill check it on the scope when I get a chance (wouldnt mind seeing how well their driving the mosfets too).

If the scope shows that its happening, then ill just play around with the calibration button. I think that if I dont push to full stick while calibrating, it will take where ever I pushed it to as ~21V (3V lower than pack voltage) and when the stick passes that mark, it will put more to the motors, either that or failsafe and do nothing. . . . .
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Post Thu Nov 25, 2004 6:53 am 
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Spockie-Tech
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The actual peak voltage output to the motors shouldnt vary with movement in the stick if you are looking at it with a scope.

The mark/space ratio of the on/off pulses should change from 0% to 100%, but the peak voltages should stay the same (ignoring a very small drop as the mosfets heat up and their internal resistance increases).

It cant go past 100% "on-time". if you calibrate that point to be half stick travel, then you should get 100% power at half stick, and shortly thereafter go into failsafe (assuming the calibration affects the failsafe points and not just the full-throttle points on the curves).
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Post Thu Nov 25, 2004 9:31 am 
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ffej
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Joined: 22 Jun 2004
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Location: Kurrajong, NSW


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Well, what a pain in the ass . . . .

My parts from the RMP didnt come, so I now dont have the wheels and deans connectors I needed for the design to work. I had the idea that if for some crazy reason, Murphy raised his ugly head id just go to Bunnings and pick up some wheels that I could use in place of the colsons. Murphy had other ideas though, and I ended up having Bunnings close their doors in my face, after sitting in traffic for an hour and a half! I wasnt happy to say the least.

So now it looks like im going to have to try and get there when it opens at 8am tommrow, get the wheels, get back home, find some way of mounting the wheels and then try to get to the event! As a warning, I might be a bit late . . .

Ontop of all of this, the other day I got some semi-accurate scales, and turns out that Singularity was 1.3kg over weight without any fasteners, so I spent another 2 hours cutting, drilling and re-welding, before getting it down to 13.3kg without fasteners, I was happy with that.

BTW, does anyone know what wheels Bunnings sell that are about 13cm in diameter and fit the drills with little effort ? Wayde, I saw that you were using some white wheels last event, how big were they ?


@Brett, sorry been a while since ive had to do anything to do with PWM and a scope (going back to the oatley controllers) and forgot all about that fact. Im hoping that if I calibrate if differently, it will actually go to 100% ontime, rather than the ~85% it is now. If it does failsafe, ill recalibrate and just accept that its probobly saving the drill motors . . .
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Post Fri Nov 26, 2004 9:05 pm 
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Ajax
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Standard wheel size's are

100mm
125mm
150mm

These sizes are all avalible from Bunnines
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Post Fri Nov 26, 2004 9:21 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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hey jeff, just use your colson hubs and bolt the crap wheels to the CNC botparts hubs,

wayde just hacked the red wheel guts into the white wheel.
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Post Sat Nov 27, 2004 5:59 am 
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Waddy the phoenix



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: sydney


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lol yeah just make sure its a real tight fit or you get some cool spinnyness but no movement Very Happy
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Post Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:31 am 
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