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Micro Magnum, Team Magnum, NSW
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Update:

Just started my first Lipo charge! I had to solder my own charging lead cuz the battery uses a weird HXT plug.

Some brief testing done before the lipo charge showed that one of the drive ESCs might be dead. Normally that type of ESC will twitch three times when turned on, but that one did not. Also that one failed to respond to any commands at all. What do you guys think might have caused the problem? I'm thinking that it might have been caused by me plugging in the servo wires in the wrong way.

When I started adding the brushless ESCs into the mix something started beeping... Still looking up the manual for solutions. (The HobbyKing page gave me some manuals in German, and I had to use the English manual for another ESC of the same series.)

Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 2:38 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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UM, how are you connecting the battery to the charger? A lipo pack normally connects to the charger with its large positive & negative leads going to the charger's main output, while the small multi-pin (HXT in your case) connector goes to the balancing port on the charger, often via an adaptor board or lead.

If you don't connect the battery that way, the charger can't monitor the charging process and the cells can be over charged and/or unbalanced.
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Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 2:45 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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On my battery there is one balancing multipin HXT plug, and also the two main leads, which also seem to be called HXT for some reason. Google HXT plug and you will see, it's quite rare.

EDIT: I think this big HXT plug is some version of the 4mm banana plug since the 4mm plugs work perfectly with HXT.

Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 2:49 pm 
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Nick
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OK, that doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but as long as you are using the balancing connector. its all good.

On your earlier question, its pretty hard to break a servo or ESC by plugging the servo lead the wrong way. If the ESCs have built-in BECs to supply power to the receiver, its usual to disconnect the centre servo wire (the positive supply) on all but one of the ESCs, that prevents slight voltage differences from causing any overheating in the BEC electronics - its not a huge issue with most ESCs and shouldn't cause damage if you didn't already do it.
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Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 3:03 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Do you mean this kind of connector?

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Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 4:15 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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To Nick:
Yeah it sounds really weird if an ESC can be broken by 5V signals. I will go read the manuals and find out. Luckily only one of the ESCs had that problem.

To Knightrous:
Yes that's it.

Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 5:06 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Update:

Just got the brushless ESCs working! Sounds underwhelming without a spinner attached, but at least it's working. Also the motor got warm really quick, now I can warm my hands in the winter in just a few seconds.

Will be doing tank mixing next...

Post Fri Jul 21, 2017 5:10 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Update:

Mixing is done!

The steel parts came back from heat treating yesterday. They are ever so slightly warped, I will have to see if the warping makes any difference. Some of the parts are also covered in a layer of rust-ish thing, I guess it's time to get a file.

Post Sat Jul 22, 2017 3:14 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Great to see this bot finally comming together - can't wait to see it at the nats😎👍
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Post Sat Jul 22, 2017 7:01 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Thanks, see you at the Nationals.

Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:26 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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A few questions...

1. I was trying to disable the braking function in my brushless ESC (HK red brick 125A). I think I disabled it because the sound it makes when it turns on is now different, but I can't really tell the difference by the time it takes to spin down from full throttle. Is that normal?

2.What's the size of the long screws on the P60 gearbox? It seems to be imperial.

Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:31 pm 
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Nick
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The screws holding the front & back plates on the P60 are 6-32 and the mounting screws are 10-32 - both rather hard to find and expensive to find in Australia. Its possible to drill & tap the 6-32 threads to M4 and the 10-32 to M5, although that leaves you with rather weak threads in the mounting holes IMHO.

I don't know that particular ESC but if the brake is completely off, you should be able to rotate the motor by hand while it is powered on. If the brake is still on, it will be much harder to turn.
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Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:23 pm 
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MoonSet416



Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney


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Thanks for the info.

Sorry I didn't make myself clear. I wasn't trying to replace the screws, it's just that I can't find the right hex wrench to loosen the screws.

I tried turning the motors by hand, and that kinda worked. The motors are hard to turn to begin with and that explains why they stop quickly whether the brakes are on or not. I guess I can double check when I do weapon testing later on.

Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:09 pm 
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Nick
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You'll be reaching for your 7/64th" hex key to undo those screws.
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Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:15 pm 
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Nick
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Are the motors hard to turn when they are disconnected from the ESC? That sounds a bit unusual for an in-runner motor; all mine are quite easy to turn, with just some cogging as the magnets pass by the motor poles. If the motors are hard to turn and you mentioned the ESCs get hot quickly, than the motors may be faulty.
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Post Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:22 pm 
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