Hardox is actually a wearplating from SSAB, not a liquid chemical. Check out Hardox wearplating at http://www.hardox.com.au/ Local braches are in Brisbane and Perth. A sheet of 4mm in a heavyweight is pretty indestructible. The thinest sheet from SSAB is Hardox 450 at 3.25mm. _________________ https://www.halfdonethings.com/
Tue May 17, 2005 8:53 pm
kkeerroo Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 1459
Location: Brisbane
Well unless your oven can hit 800 degrees C I don't think you'll be able to do any heat treating at home in the kitchen. The crystal structure in steels doesn't change until 750 degrees C, and should be held at that temperture for around half an hour for a job around Nick's size. During that time the steel in the oven will also be being heat treated which may not be very good for it.
I tried a blow tourch to heat treat some steel, but I have no idea if it worked. I was just giving it a go that day. _________________ Get Some!!!
Secretary of the Queensland Robotics Sports Club inc.
Do most welding businesses have/use that 'hard facing rod' ?
I'll check out the local firms, I guess...
BTW, when doing a search on Google, do you put the '+' sign between words in a multi-word search ???
Could explain why I never seem to have too much luck finding info on the net....
I'll try that too, I guess... _________________ There is no such thing as excessive carnage.
Wed May 18, 2005 9:49 am
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
using a blowtorch to heat treat metal as a rule wont work, you have no idea what the actual temperature of the part is and its not paticularly well controlled.
the heat treating glen was looking at needed around 250c upwards depending on the steel.
as for aluminium to restore strength after welding it looks like your average oven is capiblle of this, ~370F which is around 190c
(for about 18 hours)
but still worth it if it brings your weld from 18000PSI to 60000PSI _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Wed May 18, 2005 10:05 am
dyrodium Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney
on google, a <space bar> space acts like a "plus this" thingy. no + needed _________________ ( •_•)
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
A + means must have, so +Steel +case +hardening will be more focussed that just "steel case hardening", which will bring up sites with just one of the words. A plus sign also forces searching for simple words like 'a' or 'the', which you might want.
Nick Most welding suply shops should stock hard faceing rods.
I had some here for years but chucked them out last year when they got wet and the flux crumbled on them .They would be expensive to buy a packet but you might be able to buy to them in small lots and some places will seel them by weight also .
I used to do a lot of hard faceing years ago as all the parts of the machine i operated that came in contact with the ground had to be hard faced weekly and some daily. And i also welded on base cutter blades on the harvestors i operated with high carbon rods .The 1200mm dia discs were made from 12 mm mild steel and then the hardened steel blades 75mm x45mm x10 mm thick had to be welded on the outer edge with high carbon rods.
Have a chat to a welding shop to find a rod that will best suit your purpose .A lot of hard faceing rods are desighned to build up the origional steel with a realy tough layer for wear purposes .Some of these types of aloys dont take too well to impact and will crack and chip off the parent metal.
Some actualy form small cracks in the weld material its self as they cool but normaly this doesnt affect the wear properties . Mabe a higher carbon type rod would be more suitable so you can build up a layer on the tooth face then grind it to shape then harden and temper it afterwards if you wanted it harder . Ive forgotten the names and numbers of the types of rods we used so i cant say exactly which to use .
Thanks for that ...I've met the father of one of my kids' schoolfriends, showed him the arena and a dvd of the action... he might also be building a bot now too...
Just by chance he is a professional welder .....looks like some kind of hard facing weld is in order.
figured out how to make the MoF invertable.
Now looks like being a 2 wheeled box, pushing a dozer-blade, with the vertical wheel of malice right in the centre of the blade. _________________ There is no such thing as excessive carnage.
Went looking for cheap metal (frame and armour) yesterday.
At 'onesteel' I found a piece of metal that a truck had semi-squashed. They cut off the busted bit, but only had 4.8m of a 9m length. They were keen to get rid of it.... very cheap.
So I came home with a 10cm wide, 4-6mm thick, mini 'I' beam. It is some cold moulded/cast 'you-beaut' steel, that the bloke says is 40% lighter than standard hot moulded steel.... whatever.
It IS very light.
Let's see where needed real bracing... or thick armour.
Found some transfer-bearings (also known as roller/caster bearings).
$64 for only 4! They had better be tough. _________________ There is no such thing as excessive carnage.
Tue May 24, 2005 3:28 pm
kkeerroo Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 1459
Location: Brisbane
$16 for a ball tranfer unit? How big is it? I have 6 flange mounted 5/8" steel ball units you can have for $4 or $5 each. _________________ Get Some!!!
Secretary of the Queensland Robotics Sports Club inc.
one place I tried quoted $6.85 each, but not in stock - and won't be available until August.
I'll have 4x25mm ball roller castors on friday, but really out of pocket for the $$'s.
@Kkeerroos
How many of the 5/8ths ball units do you have available?
I'd like a few more ball castors for spares and other stuff... _________________ There is no such thing as excessive carnage.
Tue May 24, 2005 9:30 pm
Philip Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane
Nic's weapon looks very scary. It is huge and nasty. I wish I had taken a picture of it. _________________ So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems
S'pose it's time I took some pics myself..
When I'd only just found this site last year, there was a really good build report on the Stainless Steel Rat. Great pics that demistified the building of one of these bots.
So I might do similar. From pile of bits to built.... over the next 2 weeks..
Wondering if a 12v drill/gearbox could spin-up a 4kg disk in 3 seconds ? _________________ There is no such thing as excessive carnage.
Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:32 pm
Glen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
up to the 550rpm of the drill gearbox? concievably, but it thats a fairly slow speed and the reliablity of the drill gearboxes is less than impressive.
a big dewalt drill is almost 2000rpm at 24v and i reckon that would do but still no substitute for a proper gear or belt driven setup.
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