i was having the same problems as sunshine at battleshed because i was using the A123s instead of lipo or nicads so you have to put it into auto cell detect mode and low cut off voltage.

but in any case i had mine set as folllows -

Brake - Off
Battery Type - Nicad
Cut off type - soft cut
Cut off Voltage - low
Start mode - normal
Timing mode - High (play with this setting for your motor it might not like it cranked up so high..)
Govener mode - Off
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Any updates on here? Im interested to see how it was resolved

What sort of rpm does the shell spin up to?

Umm, Sunshine hasn't left the box that it was in on the trip back. The motor burnt out in Melbourne and I'm fairly sure that I only have 2 phases left, since it oscillates. Worst case is only one phase.

My hope is that the wires burnt and broke close to a connection point so that I can just solder them back together and apply "strain relief" (read "gaffa") tape.

Otherwise I'm waiting for Andrew's spare brushless to come in but it's on backorder from United Hobbies.

I'm also considering my options for changing the gear ratio. At the moment, using sorta best case conditions, the shell will spin up in 8 seconds with a max rpm of 1800rpm. Thats the best that I can do with a V-belt pulley arrangement.

It looks like I can change the gear ratio easily enough if I can get a hunk of wheel onto the output shaft of the motor and shape it into a V for the pulley mounted to the rim. For a 20mm useful diameter the speed changes to 950rpm with a "best case" spin up time of 2 seconds.

However, until I can get a motor into it, I can only hope that my calculations come close to the truth.
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

well, the motor looks ok from a physical inspection, it seems that maybe some of the varnish has cooked off on of the poles, but it doesn't seem extensive, just on the surface. My $7 multi meter didn't offer much in the way of an electrical test. I have a milli-ohm meter designed and floating around the place, I should probably go and build it
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

if its a brushless you should be able to re-wind it without too much difficulty. The hard part with winding a commutated motor is the windings spin so you need to balance the rotor.
You can probably do it with $5 worth of wire from jaycar (they sell winding wire there) and if its floating your boat get the 200C square aluminium magnet wire from some online store (again you want about $5 worth ;->)
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

While at the same time checking to see if my old brushless motor still works, I'm going to try my hand at making a brushless motor out of a car alternator.

By some guesstimates scribbled on a piece of paper, I can fit 12 3/4" N40 cube magnets as the stator in place of the 12-pole slip-ring powered field coil.

I'm guessing that I'm going to need some strong influence to keep the magnets in their place, so I'm thinking a thin ring of titanium holding the magnets in, as well as the traditional glue. I might try for something like a drilled out hardox core to mount the magnets on and to also bolt on pulleys etc.

Any suggestions?
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

I thought of something like that a whlie back. Turned out that alternator torque/efficiency is too low in stock form.

I wasnt thinking of fitting magnets to replace the field windings though, that might help.

You might be interested in this.
http://www.robowars.org/docs/alternator%20to%20stepper%20-%20circuit%20cellar%202306017.pdf
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Great minds discuss ideas. Average minds discuss events. Small minds discuss people

If your going to go to the hassles of modifying an alternator, you might as well just rewind the current brushless and battle harden it with some mods.
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I'm thinking that it's easier to battle harden something that was made for a car which is about 4 times larger, than something made for the delicate world of model aircraft.

Question: I'm planning on buying arc magnets designed for a rotor 5mm smaller in diameter than the current rotor. This will leave extra air gaps around the edges of the magnets of 0.1mm and a gap of 0.1mm between the magnets and the rotor backplate. I'm not overly worried about the extra air gap, I'm just wondering if the backplate will have enough surface area with the magnets for them to stay fixed and not fly off into outer space. (It's a glue strength issue from where I stand)
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

The best glue depends on how hot the motor will get. At room temp, almost any epoxy will do, but once your motor gets toasty, most glues will lose at least half their strength. I use a 3M 2216 epoxy on my Mag motor magnets and it does a much better job than the factory glue. It's a pain to work with, but after looking at many temp VS strength charts, this is the glue of choice.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

quote:

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Originally posted by Nick:
but after looking at many temp VS strength charts, this is the glue of choice.

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quote:

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Originally posted by BH Mike:
I'm thinking that it's easier to battle harden something that was made for a car which is about 4 times larger, than something made for the delicate world of model aircraft.

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Some nice news over the weekend, my brushless motor isn't dead. I will have some time on wednesday to grab a smaller belt and see if there was a slippage problem.

Also after dissecting everything my baseplate was noticeably warped. Time to look at some re-enforcement.
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

what size was the baseplate??
i thought it was steel sheeting?

It was 1mm stainless. One of the problems is that I put some long parallel cuts in it for the motor mounts. Also I was going to bolt a second sheet above it for some support, but didn't get around to it.
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.