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Bucko's Bots - Victoria
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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thanks for the heads up

just a question, for the drill hacking 101 site (this one)

it says i should remove the screw that is inside the chuck, how do i do this, i have the perfect SD put the drill in reverse and it dosnt work, it wont come out, i have tried habd unscrewing and i even got somone else to try, but it wont budge, how do i remove it??

Post Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:50 pm 
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Fish_in_a_Barrel



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 673
Location: Perth, Western Australia


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I do it with two drills working in opposition, but I find that both of the batteries must be fully charged.
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Post Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:50 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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The screw goes in the reverse direction. That is, you need to turn the screw as if you are trying to tighten it.
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Post Sat Jan 05, 2008 2:27 pm 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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BAH

i have tried to remove the screw to no avail (and yes i was doing it the right way) i will have a go with some other ideas tomorrow, i need this done pretty soon if i am going to set everthing up in time for robowars, the clock is against me

Post Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:55 pm 
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andrew



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 3110
Location: Castle Hill, Sydney. N.S.W


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worst case if the screws either stripped or wont come out, simply put eveyrthing back together, desolder a wire off the motor and take it back and get them to exchange it for a new one and try again and see if you have better results

Local dick smith people hate me so much Razz
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Post Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:34 pm 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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haha

nice sugestion Laughing well i think that its my drills because the wont come off (i have two and neither of them will come off) they should be done today though

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:47 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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did you try the other way just incase?
you said you put it in reverse in your first post as they come out when you tighten most other screws (tighten is forward for normal screws)
or are the gmc special?
GL must be a real pain

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:47 am 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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i tried them both ways (evan with both drills going) but i cant hold the screwdriver in the screw, in an hour or so i will go down and get my big vise to clamp it in Twisted Evil

if that dosnt work who knows?

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:13 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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take the damn things back and swap em over! Cool
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Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:14 am 
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Jason Team Grimlock



Joined: 06 Jan 2007
Posts: 95
Location: Sydney-nsw-bondi


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Wecome!

Hi Sid, and Welcome to the madness that is robowars!

Im liking youre first robot design-youre taking a nice simple
approach and making it a low rider-my first bot was Razorback, a box
with two cheap drill motors, two pikes and a "wedge" tail. It
did fine for a first bot, was a good little pusher!

Looking forward to seeing you and a new bot at the first meet?-Jas

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:03 pm 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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hey thanks for the kindness (sounds kinda weird saying that)
it will be my second meet, but if all goes well first i am entering in.


progress report
chasis is preped fpr welding
still waiting o the IBC (hopfully tommorow)
the damn drills are still stuck, (going down to pas to use some "bigger tools" to get it off)

other than that finished

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:57 pm 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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as i am not going to be using the patented "little red wheels" is there any chance of just cutting the screw off?? as that is what i am going to do unless the drill drive WON'T work without it (or the other half is impossible to remove :rolleyes: )

just on a side note: is there anything i shouldnt bring to robowars?? (bazookas, welders, extra bladey-weapony-things, diet coke mentos??)

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:28 pm 
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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If its really that tight as in probably lock tight from factory you can take the side out of the plastic outer part of the chuck and apply some heat from a butane torch, the plastic will start to burn so don’t end up with melted plastic stuck to you as it causes blisters.

Actually the heat front the cut off wheel can sometimes be enough to loosen the lock tight.


You need the left hand threaded screw to hold any sort of wheel or adapter on unless you intend to weld or drill holes and pin or some other creative method but having the right hand thread on the outside working against the left hand thread on the inside is what will enable your bot to drive back and forth without the wheels falling off.

Its certainly not proof against failures, plenty of red wheels fall of as the center strips or the screw works loose and if you manage to overcome the falling off problems that generally means that its going to be difficult to get your combination apart for maintenance. Mad

There are various alternatives to the red wheel its just cheap and easily available and with the entry level drills that the chucks come off easily a quick way to get your bot going.

I deliberately used red wheels on Bane 2 partly to prove that they can still be competitive.

Fact of life is that the red wheel drill combination is high maintenance; you really need a spare or 2 if you wont to have any hope of going all the way in a big event.

After each fight you need to check the wheel is on tight and not striped, run the drive motors with the bot upside down and load the motors with an old red wheel or similar.

Spin the wheel by hand to feel if the gearbox is falling to bits, check how hot the motors get, if the windings are burnt out they can still run but they suck more power and get hot.

check the plastic fans haven’t melted.

A lot of bots get put in to fight with these sorts of problems that could have been spotted between fights, Pit work is important.
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Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:57 pm 
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Sid



Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 59


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anks for the help, i will be doing full matainance checks at the pit (i thought thats what i was suposed to do there) and will take the advise given to its fullest (maybe)

i dont plan on winning the big one on my first time, but it would be a nice bonus. i plan to go there have fun and (hopfully) not to discrace the Buckton name, (no pressure that my mums a mechanic dad and grandad were tradies Rolling Eyes )

once again thanks for the advise

Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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Yes most events guarantee you at least ½ hour between fights.

U need to have your battery charging strategy sorted, tools and spare parts and I recommend some sort of jig or fixture so you can run your bot with the wheels safely off the table so it doesn’t jump off the table.

Sidetracked have welders etc and generally something can be done as far as that type of repair.

As far as your question in the other thread I am sure no one will mind which bot you turn up with on the day, you entered before the deadline so you get the ½ price entry or don’t have to pay double entry however you like to think of it, Best you have the correct name in the wiki before the actual event or it will cause confusion as the announcer and the system of keeping track of the fights.
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Post Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:37 pm 
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