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Rhino, plastique, Zebra And family. team NET state victoria.
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Where you least expect


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collo - shouldnt matter unless your robot is using 20 amps to turn which is plenty!

will see how the $ are going and buy one this week and hack it open, running the logic off the bec like the scorpion sounds like a good idea anyway Smile the regulator setups probably only good for 14v or so input. fingers crossed thats the limiting factor in running voltage.. Cool

Post Sun Apr 05, 2009 6:13 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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if it is that would be good news for a lot of non spinner weapons or low KE weapons, cheep drives, ect.

Biggist issue may be the motor stalling in reverse.

Interesting post from teamocean.
If that is the case and foward may still live when reverse died that at least means you may be able to contune the fight.
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Post Sun Apr 05, 2009 6:22 pm 
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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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Location: Brisbane, QLD


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Foward is really a relative sort of thing anyway. You should be able to just wire it up with both going fowards and then play round with mixing so that it goes the right way.

This also depends how you are doing the mixing though.
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Steven Martin
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Post Sun Apr 05, 2009 11:54 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
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Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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I have used them in a bot before with no problems. There was no delay from forward to reverse.
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Post Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:08 am 
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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http://www.robotcombat.com/products/0-PRB2314.html


I was thinking disconnect the red wire from the RX plug for higher voltage. And yes run both sides in forward, avoid pushing matches in reverse.
Not sure about this auto calibrate business?
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Post Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:22 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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agreed you would be stupid to run one foward one reverse to drive straight.
i ment sooner or later u will probably have to reverse (both would be reverse at same time), if you loose a motor or similar in that situation you can easy break 20A with most drills. or if you got in a pushing match. you would have to be careful.


interesting about the calibration on RMP. Gary did your instructions mention anything about it?
Hopefuly this is a 'more advanced version at RMP' then the ones you get from ebay
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Post Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:00 am 
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Rotwang
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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No, no mention of that auto calibrate function in the instructions with the ebay one.
A horizontal thwack might benefit from one forward one reverse if you remembered which way you were going to spin.
Smile
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Post Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:16 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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Location: Adelaide


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I did not want to do my linear programing math assignment. so did a bit more work on my bot design.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/newidea.jpg

2 bad its so far offset but weight distro is in between the 2 motor ends so that should be ok.

10.6kg in the cad. No lid (polycarb), No end on the beak, A123 batterys, no pivot to mount the weapon motor and gearbox, no welds, no armour suports, no ssrs, no mounting for weapon motor and gearbox.
Other side of beak where there is space there will be SSR's.
So still some work to do before the weight will be good enough to get this thing built but it is the best design weight wise to date and reminds me 2 much of a NSW style bot.

Thats 3mm mild steel baseplate.
5mm (prob bis400 if not Mild steel) armour.
5mm jaw again prob bis400.
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Post Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:00 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Thought about mounting the weapon motor into the actually crushing arm and inverting the actuator thread? It would make it a little more top heavy, but it would clear up some of the internals.

Are you still going to build that epic 1 x SSR per leg h-bridge to control the weapon? Considered a pair of those new jaycar 100amp relays in h-bridge?
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Post Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:26 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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Location: Adelaide


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yes im still planing the SSR hbridge just for some practice and project planning more then anything and i want to see how the ssr will go keeping time together as a side is pulsed.

Jaycar 100A should be a quick job to implement if needed ive got some code that works with there 60A version (not combat tested) so in a pinch should just be a solder job.

Ill htink about mounting the motor in the arm but i dont think it will work as the motor can only be attached onto one end of the acuator so to change lenth the other end would have to go out the bottom of the bot without the jaw being at least a min of 350mm above the base plate of the bot
range would be 350mm-600mm or so above.
That may be just 2 high.

if im thinking right but ill give it more thought when ive got time/
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Post Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:40 am 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Depends on your actuator design i guess, if you build it similar to a tailer jockey wheel, it should work without the shaft having to poke out the bottom of the robot.
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Post Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:47 am 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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more random cad ideas (Read putting off doing my uni assignments and projects)

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/assem2-1.jpg

Thanks Aaron for the suggestion.
would need a new lead screw. due to the size of my current one and i do not wish to cut it.
Im thinking possible a car jack or similar with a pipe welded to the nut.

Extremely rough cad just shows the main change from previous designs.

This should remove one of my pivots i was planning to help remove a failure point and the size of the bot.
Will need A123. rough guess weight should be about 12kg so with stuff im noting thinking about i should just come in under weight.

Dimensions just look stupid looks way 2 top hevy


On a note about the circuit i posted in just wondering and got adivice from Brett about one of my lectures saw the diagram, Got a pen and crossed out all my diodes saying that i should not use them if it was a real project due to the extra work and cost each board would cost in RL.
He has 2 much faith in the internal diodes for my liking.

some ideas are continuing for my SSR based esc.
current thinking is pwm at about 50hz for testing. I think 100hz should work ok.
This will mean that the motor will probably run way hotter then needed but its a start.
Testing will be done with a circuit breaker at ~90A that should stop the SSR exploding if things go well.
Might try saving enough for a Victor or Vantec and keep purly as a side project
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Post Sat May 09, 2009 9:01 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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study was driving me nuts so
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/view3.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/view3.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/view3.jpg

not happy with the leverage atm and the claw design needs some work.
want to get design done so i might be able to spend a bit of my holidays working on it. (unlikly )

Pivots still need a bit more work especaly the one for the dewalt motor and motor support as atm ive just got a pipe around the gearbox but the gearbox is not round and mounting everything to the motor can sounds like a quick shortcut to disaster..

dont worry that sabertooth is standing in for an XXL and the victor will hopefuly fit somewhere
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Post Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:42 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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did some more cad work and i am now happier with the ratios
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/?action=view&current=pic9.jpg
vrs
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/?action=view&current=pic5.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/pic4.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/pic3.jpg
also came up with something like http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/pic10.jpg but dont think it will be very stable.

I think smaller wheels will be useful to help limit ground clearence so the bot will be more stable due to hte large overhead load
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Post Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Having the right-angle drive pivot where it is in your render will place a lot of strain on the thread rod section of the actuator. Think it will end up binding or bending. Should work better by shifting the pivot to be in line with the actuator thread.
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Post Sat Jun 13, 2009 10:55 pm 
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