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DavidM
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 41
Location: Victoria, Australia, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
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Starting Lights (christmas tree)
Those who were at Robowars 2003 may remember the starting lights or christmas tree we used, I think Battlebots use a real drag racing version.
The lights were cobbled together for the event and it has taken me until now to get around to making a decent version.
The previous version did basically 3 things:
1) timed and displayed 3 minutes on a stepper motor controlled clock face (45 cm diameter).
2) used halogen dichroic lights (red, yellow, yellow, yellow, green) in sequence to start the fight and last five seconds of the fight the sequence was reversed.
3) Beeped when ever a light came on so you got the "pole position" video game kinda starting sound (bip, bip, bip, bip, burrr), and a nasty blahhhhhhh sound at the end of 3 minutes.
The only control the user had was a 'start' which oddly enough started the timing and if it was held down, it would accelerate the timing (used for KO).
Spockie had a couple of suggestions:
A) add a pause button to stop the clock (and probably alternate the first and third yellow lamps), to continue from this paused time press 'start'.
B) add a KO button which if held down will beep and flash the lamps (Green, Yellow, Yellow, Yellow, Red) in sequence for the KO period (actually what is it 20 or 10 seconds?) if the button is depressed for the total KO period (indicating the robot still KO'd) the timer will return to zero and the speaker will blast Blahhhhhhhh indicating KO and end of match, and if the button was released within the KO period the lights will clear and the 3 minute timing will be uneffected.
Another addition is a switch for 5 or 3 minute timing.
And finally the interesting bit, I'm getting some boards made up, at least one for robowars, but I was thinking if Giant Robo in NSW and Andrew in QLD would use it, I'd get two extras made and give them a working circuit boards (soldered PCB, relays, micro etc..) each.
BUT.. you have to add the start/pause/KO push button switches, 5 x 12Volt lamps (or 10 in 2 sets of 5), a speaker horn (or PA connection) and stepper motor for displaying the time. Of course its totally optional what you have and don't have, and I'm willing to alter the software moderately to accomodate individual setups (as its only 3 users).
The output to the lamps is driven from relays, so you could slave higher voltage relays if you wanted mains voltage lamps.
I'm interested in any comments on operation, and particularly from Andrew and Giant Robo. _________________ "Limitation shows the Master."
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Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:31 am |
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DavidM
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 41
Location: Victoria, Australia, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
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The Robowars one has the following kit:
2 x Red halogens (Jaycar SL2741 @ $6.96)
6 x Yellow halogens (Jaycar SL2744 @ $6.95)
2 x Green halogens (Jaycar SL2742 @ $6.95)
Arranged at the top two Red, next two yellow, next two yellow, two yellow and two Green, each set of two is wired in parallel, effectively 5 light circuits.
The halogen lights are dichroic filtered and have integral reflectors, standard two pin connection, so you can use the cheaper holders (SL2735 @ $3.75) or as we used (SL2738 @ $5.99) as these have protective surrounds and are easier to mount to a pole or whatever.
Note1. buy them at the same time and ask for the ten up price which is about $'s cheaper.
Note2. There are blues ones too (SL2744) if that grabs you.
The Speaker is an 8 ohm horn type speaker normally used on Alarms (AS3180 @ $16.95), a connection can be made to a PA or AV setup if required.
The wired controller has three buttons Start/KO/pause, this uses a DIN 5 lead (Plug to Plug, ie like MIDI [say 3m Midi lead would do]), this makes the controller easy to make, get a Zippy box and three push buttons and a DIN 5 Socket and wire it up (directions/pinout will be sent with the PCB) but its basically two pins are connected to the common and the three others the switched lines.
The Stepper motor used is a 1.8 degree, four pole stepper @ 12V (driven by 100A FETs (no don't think about it)). Lower voltages can be used with the addition of a high wattage resistor (dirty but it works as the Stepper gets switched on only during the timing period). 2 pole steppers can rigged up with some frigging about with PNP drivers. Coarser steps can be accomodated with a variable changes in software.
The power supply is a 12V SLA as its portable (used a 7.5Ah for all of Robowars with no worries), a linear or switch mode PSU could be used if you wanted to go to the trouble, but simple is good.
The pcb requires two SPST ON/OFF toggle switches, on for Power and the other for 5/3 minute selection, there's even a revers polarity diode to stop one from killing it like I did to the original at Neighbours.
Of course the software is vapourware at the moment, but all the Robowars 2003 functionality is still real, but its a trivial device so it shouldn't take too long to code the rest. _________________ "Limitation shows the Master."
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Wed Aug 04, 2004 11:31 pm |
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DavidM
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 41
Location: Victoria, Australia, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
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I should have been clearer.
The program, PCB and components are offered free, the idea was to offer it to an active QLD and NSW representative that would use it in local comps (ie like Giant Robo), when making one its only slightly harder to make three.
I'd like to see them actually get used, sitting around in someones drawer is not the aim, flashing and beeping in a shed with two robot and people behind a plastic sheet over the door - well thats the aim. Of course if no one is really interested in making a set of lights (one must consider the lights and speaker are not an insignificant cost at around the $150 mark), I will probably hock one to sidetracked for go-carts and the other a portable street-fight version, so it no worries either way.
It is possible to perform most of the functionality with a low end PLC (not too low end - eg like a Pico intelligent relay with 4 inputs and 6 outputs, it needs at least 10 outputs and 6 inputs), the program will be relatively simple using several concurrent loops, however the cost will probably be prohibitive and the sound generation will have to be performed by external sirens etc. Using an Atmel 8MIPS single chip micro is a bit of an over kill, but its cheap, and besides its academic, the PCBs arrive in 3 days along with the DBC (Dave Bot Controller). Exploding MOSFETs here I come. _________________ "Limitation shows the Master."
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Tue Aug 10, 2004 1:15 am |
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