Lol, one is enough

Had Aaron over to build some roborts today, gave me a bit of motivation to start modifying the flipper cylinder.



Managed to cut the assembly down by 35mm in height by removing 10mm of stroke and removing some useless double o-ring joins, then removed 600g of weight by thinning the cylinders wall thickness down from 5mm to 2mm and cutting some off the top to facilitate the reduced stroke.

Also replaced the massive aluminium piston rod with a thinned down one that has a solid UHMW piston. Much lighter

Going to attack the base, top and tie rods next for some weight reduction, looks to be about 4-500g of weight that can be removed from them. Then time to build the actual robot
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Cool so how tight a fit does the plastic piston have to be to seal?
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

We'll see, but tight enough not to rattle about, and not so tight that it can't return under it's own weight seems about right.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

As always. Back to square one.

Got the original ram down to 1.5kg, and an easy 300-400g worth of metal can come out of the base. However, the ram itself is dimensionally huge due to the needlessly massive shuttle valve and only 50mm bore. A reasonable bore size but for a sportsman i want all out mega flipping power!

So starting again on a 70x50mm bore and stroke single piece aluminium unit. While I get the tools necessary to make it, work plows on with the rest of the sportsman robot. I call him...

CITIZEN FLIPS



Rather standard in design. 3mm mild steel base, the uprights for the flipper arm will be 6mm thick and the arm itself will be 2 pieces of 25x25x2 SHS tube.

The 12oz buffer and burket valve sits at an oblique angle as that is the most compact way to package things while still leaving enough space for the uprights. I could have had the valve and tank perpendicular to the centerline and built the flipper hinge into the top of the ram like some UK robots.. but want to play it safe for now.

Got the base cut out and machined the 12mm wearex buffer tank mounts. Will try get the arm and uprights cut and welded on through the week as well as the drives mounted Should be pretty sweet when it's working.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Love the name. What is wearex?
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For my stuff
http://bodgeitandhope.blogspot.co.uk/

can't wait for the slo mo footage
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

quote:

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Originally posted by haz:
Love the name. What is wearex?

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Big week/end! Got heaps done while Aaron worked on his nugget.

Started off with a 4kg slab of 7075




Blasted through this part pretty quick. That process alone filled up a big grass bag of swarf D:



One side done.



Flipped it over, did the bore and turned down the ram to length. Its sitting on a 10mm thick piece of aluminium that has a center stub turned into it to locate the ram body.



Ended up having to make my own boring bar, which after two tries ended up working magnificently. The bore is super nice, i doubt i could have gotten that much better.



Rounded off the weekend by chopping up the 3mm steel for the uprighty parts. There's going to be 3x mounting holes for the arm so i can move it about for testing/research. They bolt to the base too for modifying if needed.



Also this friggin random cat keeps coming in and stealing my cable ties. What a total jerk face


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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Strap pneumatics to cat. Enter catbot. Control with dangling ziptie.
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Online store - www.ranglebox.com
Pulsar and friends.

Yay a glenupdate!

What inserts/tool do you use for your alu turning? I'm jelly of that finish.
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For my stuff
http://bodgeitandhope.blogspot.co.uk/

quote:

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Originally posted by Ellis:
Strap pneumatics to cat. Enter catbot. Control with dangling ziptie.

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looking sick
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Miles Blow - Julie Pitts
www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Lol, little bit too hard to control as well.Maxwell cat is a nutter.

Haz - I use the ccmt boring bars. I got a huge one but it didn't show up in time so I ground my own to fit in a hss holder -



Got the top bushing/stop done this morn too. Doing the piston rod tonight
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Ah yeah, I sent the cat over to bring back supplies for me to fix Overdrive with - hope you don't mind! Haha

Looking very nice though, be cool to see when it's all up and running! Are you going for a more toro-style arm with it being a sportsman (I think?)

If you really want that bore to be sexeh run a brake cylinder hone through it. Probably an idea to put sandpaper (like 800 grit say?) over the stones in the hone so they don't get clogged up. Should take out any remaining ridges from the machining. For sealing get a low temperature grease/oil I thinks, your piston is so thick it'll help reduce the blow by a fair bit.
We found that plastic piston ring style rings (rather than O-Rings) also worked pretty well.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets