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Incoming - team aurora - NSW


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Glen
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Incoming - team aurora - NSW

this is the new robot coming out of my garage to carry on cobras legacy for the second series and have just started the buying of parts.

basically here is what it will be.

- 4 wheel drive using 2x 100w scooter drives with belt transmission to the front/rear (motors are staggered in the body).

- 2.2ah SLAs low weight, looking at using 2 at the moment but 36v worth is a definite option (if the IBC will handle 36v of freshly charged batteries). room for expansion up to 4.2ah slas in case the 2.3s dont power it.

- steel armour this time. not happy with the way the aluminium went, to soft, easily cut and bent easily.

- parralellogram wedge. i dont like hinged wedges Evil or Very Mad so they are going to be fixed at either end and inverted so it can run up either way and still be solid as a brick shytehouse.

im looking at using 2" wide colsons too but it sounds like the wheels are hard to remove so it will no doubt stay with the wheels it comes with.

im hoping that with such an efficient, high power, high traction drive i should be able to push people around unopposed, i like that concept Very Happy

i just ordered the two scooters so they should get here in a couple of months lol.
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Post Tue Aug 10, 2004 12:16 pm 
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Nick
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Ah crap! That's the exact plans for my next bot too Sad Is it a featherweight or a lightweight?

I ordered some of those scooter kits 2 weeks ago and while I got a receipt number, They haven't charged my card or shipped them - they must be out of stock.

Have you seen any specs on the dimensions yet? I would really like to know the wheel diameter.
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Post Tue Aug 10, 2004 1:52 pm 
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Nexus
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I think theres going to be a few scooter brick bots.

In regard to the wheel size I believe they are about 150mm.

Personally I am going with chains because they look cool and are the work of the Devil Twisted Evil

THe big dilema in the scooters is the gear down method. Generally the main sprocket is about 100mm which means your wheels have to be bigger.
The sprockets I purchased for the lightweight cost me $5 for the 9 tooth on the motor and $10 for the 30 tooth on the wheel axle. (industrial quality 3/Cool

Unless you come u wth a creative gear reduction you will have to have a bot with decent size wheels and a body height of around 100mm - 120mm.
One thought i keep in the back of my mind is to put the 100 watt motors on an angle grinder which would halve the height of everything but the reduction is only 2.7 so running twin wheels off each motor at that ratio might be ineficient but really dont know yet, especially at 36 volts which in theory should turn the 100 watt motors into about 200 watt motors.

Otherwise have a 2 stage belt reduction to allow you to use the colsons, reduce your height and then have the flexibiity of choosing your gear ratio.
You ony need to end up with around 5:1 maybe a bit more for the twin wheels say 7:1 or 8:1.
I am building a bit blind because having chosen 3.33:1 on the lightweight so hoping it works otherwise will increase voltage.
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Post Tue Aug 10, 2004 2:17 pm 
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DumHed
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where do you find these sprockets?

I should use chain / sprocket for the 300W scooter Smile
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Post Tue Aug 10, 2004 5:23 pm 
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Nexus
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The sprockets i have purchased where from an Company called
Renolds Australasia.
THeir address is 508-520 Wellington Road in Mulgrave.
Phone : 9262 3355

NOte: went there looking for the same size chain as scooters but they would have to make sprockets up and its very pricey so instad of 1/4 inch have gone up to 3/8 inch and replaced everything, its very tough stuff. Literally twice the size in material if not more.

They are ideal for the 300 watt motors, The drive sprocket literally fits on the motor shaft by shaving a bees dick off the inside with a drill.

The components I have bought are at the extreme ends ot the teeth range so 9 and 30 give you a 3.333:1 ratio which is what i am trying. if you want more or less then you would have to add a second stage of sprockets or gears.

Might be heavy for a feather but that depends, Big sprockets can have holes drilled out if you like. They also have double and triple chains and sprockets if you need. Have been thinking of some of those for a hammer mechanism.
[/quote]
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Post Tue Aug 10, 2004 6:43 pm 
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Glen
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nick - featherweight

the 150mm wheel thing isnt a concern, after all getting under the spinners isnt much of a worry seeing as everyone can reach you even at 80mm these days.

one of the plans on mine is to have pretty big ground clearance, so i can drive off wedges and what not, cobra couldnt even move if someone wedged it up a few mm

chains may work better but i really dont have the option of frucking my scooters up trying to take off the pulleys, added to that i cant see a problem with the belts if ive got a few spares. although that angle grinder option is somewhat attractive.
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Post Wed Aug 11, 2004 12:25 pm 
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DumHed
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thanks for the info!

I'll have to try some things out Smile
Might even be able to dig up some old bike sprockets of various sizes.
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Post Wed Aug 11, 2004 1:44 pm 
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Glen
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4x 9.6v drills at 12v with treaded wheels

electric lifter on the front with window winder actuator behind it

12x12x1.2 steel box frame

3mm steel armour

thats it
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Post Sun Aug 15, 2004 11:34 am 
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Glen
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still checking out lifter mechs

- drill powering a threaded rod is one option
- using the big fan motor with a gear reduction for a pig sticker style lifter

still having a think
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Post Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:23 pm 
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Glen
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well did a little design report and really i cant do what i want without nicads.

getting 4 wheel drive drills at 24v with a lifter and steel sides was just not going to happen, not even at 12v.

the lifter mech with all the chain and so forth didnt look promosing, so its back to the scooters!

basically the same as the initial design but using 3 packs of 12v drill nicads in series. if they run flat to fast well then ill change it to 2x 2.2ah slas.

4wd once more but with some fancy frame design the thing is absolutely tiny and comes in at 11.8kg so thats a hefty safety margin.

now oatley need to get there act together. taking so long to get my drives here.
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Post Wed Aug 18, 2004 8:07 pm 
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Glen
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back to work on the thing. gotta get it chugging around by next year at least.

still sticking with the scooter drives (i promise i wont change to drills again.. Confused ) given how damn light the drive wheels/pulleys are.

sticking with the 2.3ah SLAs purely because i have tons of them, and the chargers to match. i dont fancy buying nicads and all the other who-ha that accompanies.

trying to wring every gram of weight i can from the design to jam it into the batteries. 36v is the aim, and 20mph of high speed slam is the game.

on the armour side of things, ive arranged some 3mm checkerplate steel to get made for the sides, front and back and ive already got some 6mm and 10mm polycarbonate for the base, lid and bulkheads.
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Post Thu Sep 02, 2004 8:24 pm 
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Glen
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now with the closure of the first week of exams its back to tinkering with incoming.

lots of searching has yeilded little to no information on aluminium pulleys, and the info that has arisen nearly blew my pants off... (through utter disgust at the price lol). also had a go at rigging up a bicycle chain and sprocket system with spare bike bits, and holy hell i cannot do that, still need that accuracy. got to brush up on the skills.

im thinking now of making it into a mega thwackbot, just to carry on a theme somewhat. same scooter drives, but only 2 wheels. this way i can use the standard belts that come with the kit with no extra crap.

with only 2 wheels and bugger all weight, i can use 36v of 2.3 ah slas too. an attractive prospect. the spin speed is looking to be pretty through the roof, and with a lot of torque being exerted onto the closely spaced wheels with lots of traction (the possibilty of breaking no gears makes me weak at the knees.. sweet!).

hammer i want to be like minotaur 1.2's. i feel that it is such an awesome shape and design. so little weight wasted in the arm, so strong and with a perfect design on the head of it with the parrallelogram.

still tinkering with frame setups, but its looking good. still the same ole 3mm steel frame and lexan bulkheads are to be expected.
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Post Tue Sep 07, 2004 7:02 pm 
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