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Glen
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machining thread

could be a handy thread for little questions and how to's and interesting products and stuff relating to machining Smile

question - the milling chuck in my mill is badly siezed in there i think from drilling with way too much force and not putting any oil or anything on the taper. now i cant get it out even beating it with a hammer or mallet.

dont want to hit it with anything larger in case i seriously destroy something Confused thinking about finding some penetrating oil or anti sieze stuff to try spray the thing down with and maybe loosen it up. anyone know of any good brands that might work?

oh yeah and this is a cool little line up tool - http://www.cnccookbook.com/img/OthersProjects/MillCenterDevice.jpg

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:48 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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Tried some strategically applied heat ?
If you keep the inner bit cool and warm up the outer tapered bit, you might find they come loose.

Heat is good for loosening red or higher loctite too. one of those little flame burners works wonders.
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Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:01 pm 
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Nick
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I wouldn't go overboard on heating the quill - it probably has bearings with seals that will melt, there is also all that oil & grease to burn off...

I regularly have to smash the draw-bar on my larger mill to get the boring head to release - it hasn't broken after 2+ years YMMV.

You would have to make a custom part, but have a look at this item for ideas:



It uses a plate with a taper to separate drill chucks from their arbours - perhaps a thicker steel block would do the trick?

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:34 pm 
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Knightrous
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Try a ballljoint tool, should be able to get one from super theif for like $10
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Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:58 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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You probably wouldnt need to heat it to seal-melting temperatures to loosen things. Boiling Water (or hot oil if you want to keep things rust free) might do the trick provided you can keep one half of things cool.

Or rlse do what the other guys said.... If Brute Force doesnt work, then you're not using enough.. ! Smile
Get out the levers, screws, planes, hydraulic jacks and other force multipliers
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Last edited by Spockie-Tech on Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:28 pm; edited 1 time in total

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:04 pm 
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Glen
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possibly, could use something like a giant wedge. if the penetrating oil doesnt work i think im going to thread a piece of rod and put two bolts in either end of it, and just slowly wind the bolts out to force the taper out of the spindle.

ball joint tool doesnt look like it would work because the center of the taper is hollow.

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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iff the taper is inside a hollow shaft that you can get to hit it on two sides at the same time with two hammers of equal weight i use this method al the time to remove bal joints and and the tapered blade holders on victormowers the shock of the hammers hitting on oposite sides makes the tapered shaft come lose
most ball joints jsut fall out after a couple of hits

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:26 pm 
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Nick
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The mill is the same construction as a drill press; the rotating shaft is inside a precision sliding quill & if its whacked from the sides, it will very likely stop sliding. Further, only the end of the rotating shaft with the taper is in contact with the outer quill, so applying heat is difficult. I think penetrating oil plus a wedge, screw jack or other inclined plane idea is the safest bet.

Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:23 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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How about some negative heat - A can of Freeze spray.
Anywhere you could get the tube in to freeze the part inside the taper ?
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Post Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:35 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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didnt know it was on a slide i thought it was a fixed end try inox its one of the best anti freeze rust sprays you can get there is also wd40 cbc and oither brands but inox always works the best for rusted frozen parts

Post Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:46 am 
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Glen
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havent attacked the mill yet, its still soaking in some trx so ill get to that after the event. found some cool links though.

nick showed me this one when we were doing cobras drive. its made building so much less frustrating Laughing

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCTransferScrews.htm

used to do them with grub screws and the bench grinder + hand drill before i got the lathe.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=27425

what possesses people to do this haha. undeniably cool though.

Post Fri May 01, 2009 12:08 pm 
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Nick
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That CNC cookbook site is a great find!

Post Fri May 01, 2009 7:49 pm 
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Valen
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Where the taper goes into the quill there will probably be a little slot.
You will probably need to wind the quill down to see it, but you should be able to see the back end of the taper for the chuck inside a shaft type thing.

you get a bit of steel shaped like a wedge, (3-4mm thick) and put it in the slot, and give it a whack, It'll push the taper out directly so you can put a decent bit of force on it, and its not hitting the chuck.
oh yeah you can also just wind the quill back up with the wedge thing in there and use that to pop it out but dont lean *too* hard on it or you might damage the gears driving the quill.

Theres always a way of getting it out without hitting the chuck, the hard part is getting it in firmly.

On the better ones there is a hollow running the full length of the quill and you can actually "bolt" the chuck/other thing into the taper so it doesn't fall out.
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Post Fri May 01, 2009 10:52 pm 
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Glen
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tried the wd40 and pb blaster soaking for 3 days and bashed it with a drift. no success.

drilled a hole sideways in the spindle and tried to bash it out with a wedge. no success.

tapped it on either side 4 times with two normal hammers then one bash with the drift and the chuck launched out of the spindle. success! thanks Andrew Very Happy owe you a beer haha.

wonder how hammering it sideways makes it release..

oh well expensive lesson learnt. $120 in replacement parts later. it will never happen again Shocked

Post Sat May 09, 2009 3:44 pm 
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Glen
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn7A9PqNftY&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.machinistblog.com%2F%3Fp%3D91&feature=player_embedded

wicked tip!! just building one myself now Cool

gunna have a big write up done soon thatll ill probably put on my website in the not too distant future about rebuilding my particular lathe mill combo (AL-60). plenty of things to modify!
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Post Tue May 19, 2009 3:00 pm 
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