if they think they can rip you off they wont hesitate to do so jake and i went not long ago and it wasnt any worse then before. just be firm with the price you think its worth. unless you pulled it off a late model BMW or something it would never be more then $20.

if you go out again let us know and maybe a few of us can go down there as well. i could use a few more car parts
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

yeah, I think the guy wanted some unofficial commision for himself. What do you guys think about me trying to fit one of the actuators that andrew put up for sale, he says it weighs 4-5 kg but it would have an awesome amount of force. my bot currently weighs 3.5 kg with the armor, chassis and drive (no electronics, batteries or weapon parts)

they are absolutely huge. well over 1 meter extended. unless your robot is armoured in paper and the size of a heavyweight i dont think youll get it in the weight limit

there not really that powerful for their size anyway. i couldnt get more then 500kg out of the one i bought before it stalled (5x $5 stacked scales is the best measurement tool ever) youd have to run it at 36v to get some good power out of it.

you can always make an actuator from a drill motor and a car jack that wouldnt weigh too much. plenty of power and would be pretty cheap.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

You could try the lever style too like this>

http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/pics/tb5/tbsp1_114.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/%3Fpage_id%3D7&usg=__cO2LVnnn_3P1IIKtYogee_knhrs=&h=761&w=1014&sz=103&hl=en&start=10&tbnid=e2iBVnYfn60SjM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlifter%2Bbot%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG
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Tim Team Reaper.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7046.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7045.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7047.jpg

extending on glens suggestion of homemade actuators, this is what we did for our 12kg Caketaker back in the old days, drill motor and jack screw with a couple of 7AH SLA's and off we went


Here we're running a similar actuator in bulldoze our heavyweight and certainly has plenty of lift as it has a long travel on the actuator and carefully worked out geometry

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7044.jpg

G'Day guys, I haven"t made much progress lately, as I lost power to my workshop (shed) on sunday and only had it fixed on thursday. This has made it impossible for me to do much structural work, but what I have been doing is getting my electronics orders on the internet done. When I looked at the hobby king website, on the info pages on all of the cheap hobbyking transmitters it says:

"Not suitable for the multi flapperon, mixer, vtail, FPV, robot controlling hobbyist."

should I be worried? or is it not important?

I Am Currently making a Jack actuator using a high quality 18v drill drive, however the chassis shape had to be changed to fit in the shape of the car jack, so I had to ditch the toolbox, it it now being used to store and carry tools! the chassis is now tubular and trapezoidal with a thinner front and is made out of gal. steel and aluminium tubing. it is going to be a wedge, and will self-right due to the massive claw on top.

I suggest you contact [valen] Jake from nsw he is now a scorpion sc seller in oz i suggest you use one of those rather than spend infinite time trying to use something else .
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Photos - http://community.webshots.com/album/154092733uokpXC
Photos- http://community.webshots.com/album/166819552PDWWqP

The hobby king transmiters work fine with the xxl, ibc or any other bot controler that failsafes as they act like the old FM or AM recivers when there is no signal.

what form of speed conteroler where you planning on using?
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Remember to trust me, I am an Engineer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp8hvyjZWHs

I was planning on using a couple of 60A reversible car esc's I have, and for the weapon I am using 2 solenoids actuated by switches on the transmitter, 1 to raise the claw, 1 to lower it.

As Sean posted the cheap radios work fine with robot electronics that fail safe on signal loss as in the RX does nothing if the TX turns of.

Some of the hobbies ESC’s I have played with don’t failsafe as in they just keep doing whatever they were doing when the TX switched of.

Not safe or legal for robot use.

If your ESC’s have this problem you could get around this by using a separate failsafe and if the radio doesn’t do mixing a suitable mixer can give you a failsafe as well as an invert and mixing.

The car ESC I tried didn’t work very well, lots slower in one direction so it wouldn’t drive very well in a tank steered bot, If you already have them no harm in experimenting.
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Satisfaction is proportional to effort and results.

My claw is taking shape! I have the car jack mounted on my chassis and the base pivot of the claw constructed, I am just thinking about the claw material, I have a steel scythe that might work, but I am probably just going to use some properly bent pipe with a chisel welded to the striking end. Not having a single matches experience, would these ideas have enough strength to take a hit if it catches someones spinner? I can always use multiple layers of pipe to make it stronger.

Also, does anyone know the draw & stall amps for a 12v drill drive? it seems like something that would've been asked before, but I can't seem to find it.

just to update, My drive is fully assembled and I am planning on using the Sabertooth 2X10 RC as speed controllers, would these have enough amperage capacity for some normal drill drives? Motorizing the jack was trickier than I thought it would be because the jack bolt didn't fit into the drill's chuck, but in the end I found a better solution. I have attached a sprocket to the jack and am using a chain to connect it to a 300 watt scooter motor that I have, which means it has more power! I Have a spare timing belt and 1 pulley lying around, so is it worth buying another pulley so that I am not using chains? I am still looking for sources of armour because bunnings just sucks.....

And I have come across about $100 extra funding due to an unofficial sponsorship from my dad (he works for caltex) that brings his total "donation" to $200 which is really giving me a boost! its definitely worth putting a sticker on my bot and wearing a silly caltex hat for a day!

fingers crossed I have a bot for the next event! (I'll be there irregardless)

get a sabertooth 2x25A
much better and will work in just about any drill-drive bot
i got one just the other day
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http://au.youtube.com/user/crustydemonsully

The day I stop giving 100%, is the day I stop competing

dont get 10 amp one, trust me, 25 or nothin for featherweights


ive got one in a random robot i did driving two 100 watt scooters and its never skipped a beat

trying to get a weopon done for this robot now so i can use it instead of it sitting there for months like it has.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

Yeah, 25A sabretooth is lowest you can go in that range for featherweights. They're good, check your wiring job 4 times though before you power it up:P easy to explode...
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