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Toolbox - Team calamity - NSW
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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Have not made any major changes recently, but it turns out that the minor ones I made have added up to quite a large change. The main change is the chassis, it now has hinged wegdges on all sides but the front, constructed out of 2 layers of 3mm aluminium. the front is 4 layers of the aforementioned aluminium, and the top/bottom are both one layer of the same material. The claw is large bent rod with an unknown diameter, it's quite thick though but was weakened where I attached to the actuator. But I have been experimenting with cheap speed controlling and here are my observations:

- servo controlled DPDT toggle switch -$7 per drive
was really twitchy, and probably wouldn't take a hit
- servo board running relays, running larger relays -$20 per drive
worked slightly, but I won't use it due to the large amount of wiring and like five diferent voltages I needed to use.

these systems have the advantage that they can really use any voltage depending on the relays/switches I use. But both of them have big bang control, which made steering pretty jerky.
I did find a reversible brushed boat controller for $30.00 which claims 50 amps foreward and 20 backward, I am buying 3 to test because they would work better than any of the aforementioned control systems for extremely little cost compared to IBC's sabertooth's and the like. the ESC's have an integrated heatsink, and are waterproof so I don't think they would have any problem running drill drives.

This must be quite confusing considering I have never posted a picture of my bot. I'll try to get one soon. My brother has taken the camera on a school camp so I'll get it soon!

Post Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:24 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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theres a thread about those water proof speed controllers. they work pretty good but the controller isnt too good on them. probably better then servo switching though. if nothing else alot less wiring involved. Smile

just keep the voltage down and youll probably be okay. i killed one side of mine trying it on 6 cells

read up on it!

hoping to see some pics of it soon Smile
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:19 pm 
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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weapon transmission

I spent hours today trying to get a reliable transmission from my 300 Watt scooter motor (not oatley's so no sprocket, but has a timing pulley and belt from electric scooter) and have exhausted all current gears/pulleys/friction drives and am wondering where to purchase timing pulley's to connect it to my car jack actuator, the diameter of the acme bolt I am trying to drive is 15mm if that makes a difference at all. On a different note I am feeling very inspired to create after 3 days of educationing Question at the UNSW, and am now a member of the YSA Idea

also, how much is the cheap (relatively, I presume) bunnings welder everyone has, I am tired of going to school to use one.

Post Sat Sep 12, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Where you least expect


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is that some new name for double helix? i got forced into that as a kid. ugh. did you manage to see a caucasian at UNSW as well? i dont think i saw one in my 6 months of slave labour there Laughing

but seriously the stick welders are about $90 and an auto darkening helmet (trust me get one) is about the same. maybe ebay can yield some sweeter deals Smile

timing pulleys are usually pretty expensive unless you can salvage them from something else. SDP-SI.com or small parts is pretty good. a few of us use NOUVA in perth but they are the same price as small parts these days... so i just get it all from SP.

maybe youd be better off finding a chain for that motor. someone might have a spare sprocket theyve replaced. the chain they use is extremely common (#25 chain).

Smile
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Post Sat Sep 12, 2009 9:49 pm 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney


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I havn't used them, but maybe give these guys a go, i'm planning on buying my batch of T5 gear from them soon.
http://www.piesau.com.au/ They have a half decent online store. Smile
I think their shipping might be a bit high though, around the $19 mark iirc.
EDIT: and double helix was mad, went on a camp to CSIRO and we played with liquid nitrogen and centrifuges back in yr6, don't think you can do that these days...
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Post Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:31 pm 
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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YSA= young scientists of australia. I think its what's after someone gets too old for double helix or something.

lol, the fact that the company is called pies definitely gives them an advantage over their conpetition! Mr. Green Once I work out the pitch of my timing belt I will compare prices and such.

Also, I am wondering whether there is a formula that can predict the force of my linear actuator using my motor torque and jackscrew pitch?

Post Sat Sep 12, 2009 11:05 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
Posts: 1265
Location: Adelaide


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OT: ive staffed at TSSE for ysa events in melb (these days TSE from memory) and was an active ysa member for 4 or 5 years after i was a wiffen (student )at a tsse. generally a good group but we all know ysa melb is superior lol a suprsingly little amount of science ever happens at a ysa social.
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Post Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:06 am 
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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Received a few marine speed controllers on friday, I heard that they have been used at 24v? is that a different model or do they just overvolt well, they are the 40A forward 20A reverse blue esc's, if it is possible I would be putting 18 volts through them. also I am looking to change the drill motor on the drill I actually use as a drill, what would be the Best option, as in one that would fit the gear from the original motor on its shaft and provide more power while being able to fit right on to the drill gearbox without modification.

Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:26 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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DO NOT run them at 18v. they will go pop. 14v max!
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Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:27 am 
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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Ok i'll compromise, 14.4! ( I assume that'll work? saves me some drill pack modification anyway!)
I am really annoyed at metal prices at bunnings, I haven't found anywhere but I read there was a place near blacktown called EDCON steels which apparently has some very good prices? is this true because My current layering method of aluminium isn't working well at all and I don't want to embarrass myself with a 6 second knockout against an MDF saw-bot!
read first 20 pages of the "just wondering topic". Reading timmehs 5 year old posts gives me some Idea of how you must feel reading mine! Laughing

Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:42 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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yeah dont even consider bunnings for metal. steel has to be one of the most common building materials on the planet. there are steel stores EVERYWHERE. look in the yellow pages Smile

mascot steel is probably closer to you!
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Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:47 am 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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Location: Sydney


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rofl i'd hardly say that he's on the other side of Sydney. There'd be a place there somewhere though, try hotfrog.com.au Smile
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Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:49 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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bah its all the one bourjois side to me XD.

got any pics of that contraption yet cheesy Very Happy
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Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:58 am 
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Thomas AIC



Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra


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But being glen he would know that thats close to where my dad works which would make it more convienient for me then blacktown! Laughing BTW I can't use the yellow pages as I tore it in half for a bet, sadly that seems to be the only thing they're used for these days. found a place called BHP steel fabrication 10 minutes from my house, will check it out after school on tuesday (cadets on monday till 5:30 Rolling Eyes )
You don't want to see it in its current state! its completely Naked! Haha, will get photo's soon, I promise Wink

edit: also, is square steel tubing 1.6mm thick 19X19mm strong enough for a claw so that it will not just get shredded by the first spinning disc it comes across, any tips for a better material to use? (it was properly bent)

Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:10 am 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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That tubing can't handle any serious disk.

For the claw I would use watercut Hardox. With a good shape, welding is minimal and that is a good thing.

Post Sun Sep 20, 2009 3:05 am 
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