G'day,
I'm pretty new to alot of this stuff, i have been flying petrol powered rc aircraft for a bit more than a year now. This is probably a bit ambitious for a first robot but i'll give it a try.

Well this is my First bot, and is currently in design phase.

Name: Meteor
Class: Featherweight
Weapon: Eggbeater or whatever you call them.
Transmitter: Spektrum DX6i
Drive Motors: 2 XU1 drill motors.
Weapon Motor: Maybe a fan motor from a car. (not too sure).
The rest: I'm not to sure about the other stuff yet.

I'm planning on designing my robot on something like the robot that wins this battle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHQjuk2jb08

(sorry i didn't put a team name yet, i haven't thought of one.)

I don't have much of a design yet so any help or suggestions would be hugely appreciated.

Last edited by Astronautics on Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:51 pm; edited 2 times in total

Hey dude glad to see you managed to log in

Basic needs now would be to pick up a scorpion xxl speed controller from ether www.robotpower.com or valen one of the guys here on the forum who is the ozzy rep.

Pick up a little "bec" like i was telling you about. Ether the one in the link i showed you or any someone may post a link to that is cheap and will work.

You will need a hobby charger i suggest one like what i showed you as it charges all battery's and is only about $110au and you need a 12v power supply to run the charger something at least about 10 amps i recently found some on ebay 29amps 12v for about $50

For starters id go with cheapo drill motors as you can get them in 12v 14.4v and 18v depending what voltage you need to run for the weapon motor.

Battery's depend on what you can afford and how good you are at making packs or knowing how to use them as lithium cells need to be balanced.

The stuff i showed you would work i just dug it up quick to give you an idea but no doubt other people may have found better or cheaper products that would do as well.
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Tim Team Reaper.

I just got 2 XU1 drill motors from bunnings, they are not as cheap as they used to be lol.

I am having a really hard time getting the chuck screw out, has anyone else had this problem? It's like they decided to glue it in.

Other good news:

I have been given the ok to raid a few scrap steel bins, so hopefully i can get some good metal to start constrructing with.

Left hand thread they unscrew to the right clockwise

A good fit phillips head with a fat handle for good grip will do.
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Tim Team Reaper.

Anyone know what the final verdict is with the BR6000 receivers with the DX6i?

Is it destined to fail, so alternately he needs to look at a normal receiver with an RC switch on the only fail safe channel?
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

Final verdict is they keep unbinding, or never bind at all. Nothing but agony, ask anyone who's tried...
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YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

The xxl has its own failsafe which should work with his stock receiver.

If the $30 hobby king radios work then his will.
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Tim Team Reaper.

Well, last night i fried one of the drill batteries, and then one of the drill speed controllers, i am not currently sure whether the motor is ok, as i have not tested it since the other stuff screwed up.

The issue with the stock spektrum recievers is they DO 'failsafe' but they failsafe the throttle channel on what ever it was on, to stop planes crashing from the sky during a glitch.
I hope you mean one of the drill trigger controllers... not an expensive esc.
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YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

Well there is two options then.

One sell the dx6i and buy a dx6 with br6000 receiver there better anyway and you would prob pick one up for the same price as what you get for your second hand dx6i or two buy a cheapo hobby king radio for about $65 shipped.

Or buy some fail safe modules from www.robotcombat.com
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Tim Team Reaper.

Just to hijack the thread real quick, i dunno about the dx6's ect but with my dx5e and br6000's when it debinds if u like flick the trainer switch or something, if i google around its written in the manual but poorly from memory - either way, its something like if u hold the switch when u turn it on or if u just toggle the switch while its on it will debind or something - maybe something to look into, maybe im completely off topic but im just commenting on the last few posts i just saw.