Hi again im sure most of you if you even remember thought i would never get anything done lets all forget about the gigantic fool i made myself out to be . As you can tell by the name it will be a wedge and possible future versions a flipper if i can get that working or some form of spike coming up though the flipper. both would be low pressure pneumatic or some form of electronic.
a static spike or 2 on the back may be an idea if i ever make a metal version. wont rearly work for polycarb and it would add another possible stress concentration point


currently making a prototype out of mdf i know it looks like crap but it has already helped me with some modifications to do on the polycarb version. unfortunatly i cant provide a CAD as rhinocad drives me nuts and i have no access to solidworks without going to uni.
Anyway hope to have the mdf finished and some initial testing for more debuging purpusus by tuesday wensday at the latest before stocking up on polycarb and building. investing in a welder is starting to become more atractive.
for the bottom and the wedge im considering uhmw pe insted of the polycarb.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/IMG_0344.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/IMG_0338.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/IMG_0341.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/IMG_0343.jpg

EDIT CURRENT BOTS in the TEAM NET fleet as of 6/01/2008

Details:

Robot name : Plastique 2

Location: Greensborough Vic

Robot weight: Featherweight

Type of Robot:. wedge with an acuated part to push other robots over once they are on the wedge.

Drive system :2 x 18v DSE drill motors/gears

Type/size of wheels: 2 x mk3 anderson spook wheels ( red wheels backup)

Weapon/s: Wedge/lifter

Speed/motor control: IBC

Power: 2 x 9.6v 2400mAh in seris.

Armour: 19mm chopping board and 3mm polycarb

Type of radio controler: Hobby King 2.4ghz radio
Robot Status: extremely damaged, Acuator motor dead.




Robot name : Zebra (formally plastique )

Location: Greensborough Vic

Robot weight: Featherweight

Type of Robot:. wedge

Drive system :2 x 18v DSE drill motors/gears

Type/size of wheels: 2 x mk3 anderson spook wheels ( red wheels backup)

Weapon/s: none (wedge)

Speed/motor control: IBC

Power: 2 x 9.6v 2400mAh in series.

Armour: 19mm chopping board and 3mm polycarb
Robot status: Ready,
Note: plastique and giraffe share some internal parts.









Robot name : Rhino

Location: Greensborough Vic

Robot weight: Featherweight

Type of Robot:. Horizontal Thwatbot with a hatchet.

Drive system :2 x 18v DSE drill motors/gears Andrewmod.

Type/size of wheels: 2 x mk3 anderson spook wheels ( red wheels backup)

Weapon/s: hatchet.

Speed/motor control: Sabertooth (as a test may revert back to ibc if sabertooth proves not to be up to the task of a thwat)

Power: 2 x 9.6v 2400mAh in seris.

Armour: 19mm chopping board and 3mm polycarb

Robot Status: Ready. possible axe upgrade planed

Last edited by seanet1310 on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:21 pm; edited 6 times in total

good choice of starting robot looks quite familiar XD
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/IMG_0344.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/4421/photo0215cj5.jpg
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Barton Robotics Official Website:
www.bartonrobotics.botscoop.net

lol. thats because after a basic design of the size and wedge i took a little inspiration from cyborg v3 hope you don't mind 2 much.

nah its kool, good luck with it, a tip if you do end up sticking a steel shell on it the whole thing becomes a lot stronger if u make it out of 3 pieces, 2 sides and the top instead of cutting a single piece for each section
_________________
Barton Robotics Official Website:
www.bartonrobotics.botscoop.net

testing WAS going well some minor changers to weigh distribution where made. But the big capacitor in the IBC is no longer conected as one of the legs is fried. I am hopeing this is the only problem with the IBC and it apears to run correctly if i solder the leg together now i have to decide if i should try and fix it myself or see if i can send it to Jason or get someone else to try and fix it.
Currently looking for a replacement DSE doesnt have one. Jaycar doesnt have a low ESR at 50v and i cant find it on digi Key. Ill continue the hunt 2morow.
Finaly getting some battery's more then the Cells with the drills thanks to Angus's sale of yamum stuff. Also ordering Deans terminals as they seam good from my reading. Once packs arrive i can get sizes and start the the construction on my proper bot.
After it is finished i hope to get a welder and start work on a second bot completely of my own design unfortunatly i doubt it will be of much use as a combat robot but it should still be fun to make even if it never competes in anything.

The cap leg melting is usually either a dodgy connection somewhere or dodgy batteries. It means that the capacitor is doing much more work than it should. If this is happening be careful that the Vreg doesn't die as well.
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

thanks. i found and rectified the problem it was a conection i did not much care with.
If the Vreg dies does it show visible damage?

usually it dies in spectacular fashion with a bang and a huge crack. If all of the leds are still functioning then I would guess everything is ok. The power is further reduced by the linear regs, which will cut out if they get too hot. So if you don't have any random drop outs, all is right with the world.
_________________
They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

thanks for all that info Mike. Still considering seeing if i can send it to be repaired that way i can be sure there are no other problems. decisions decisions.

Not much has changed i rearly need to get more work done. Aim to have it done and some testing started pre christmas as nothing is posible in new year or week before comp.
Ended up sending the IBC to Jason hopeing to have it back soon (or atleast by robowars or i could be in a bit of trouble lol)

Name change to plastique as all armor and chassie is plastic. Team name changed to NET as my sister is helping out. Names can still change.

haven't done as much as i wanted due to a bad cold. most off the wire is done with deans. (exept on the ibc as i dont have it currently)
base done wheel mounting done half of the armor is done a couple of hours should finish the chopping board armor and the PC wedge.
Rough mounting for battery's and ibc/receiver made. will be replaced and properly attached wonce all armor is done.

97mm anderson mk3 spooked wheels sounded good so im getting a pair of them and using red wheels as a backup in case they are broken or damaged.

Sounds good!
One thing to remember is make sure you don't short the batteries when you mount them so keep a look out for that.
Also, I can bring down both or one of my GWS chargers to robowars, they can fast charge those nicad cells in a snap and are easy to use. Saves you waiting on one pack to finish before the other. Interested?
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YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

Thanks for the very kind offer but i think the platinum ex charger (says it can do 26 cells at up to 5A) i got with the 12v 33A from the group order should be more then enough to keep them charged. Thanks also for the warning about shorting them i learnt my lesson with that i believe when i damaged my IBC hopefully i dont repeat. I noticed a little battle damage and an exposed cell or 2 on the packs so ill cover that with deans and lack of metal to conduct.

dam running out of time shoudnt have been so lasy before christmas.
4 days and a few hours to go to finish testing and fixing befor a week of no sleep and robowars the next day.
layer one of armor remade. origonal armor is now holds the battery with rubber for shock proofing. also the ibc box with rx holding again with rubber.


2do list so i dont forget.
finish top armor.

Finish shapeing wedge
make second layer of armor.
attach second layer
get a battery isolation switch.

install powerlight (thinking superbright led)
check and hope im under weight.
make supports.
make spikes and attach.
install battery isolation switch


green done. red. to do.
reading that it looks like i have done nothing.
now i have a sheet of polycarb again (unfortunatly not clear )im more on track again (the last one i put on the roof of the car while i carried a table around the back. forgot about it. next day drove off with it still on roof polycarb has not been seen again(it was clear which i know atleast 4 in melb dont stock it.

Last edited by seanet1310 on Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:58 pm; edited 1 time in total

pics of a basicly finished box.

Weight aprox 11 kg. Was not expecting it to weigh quite so much being just plastic.
im not sure if i will put 3 spikes on the back still deciding.
powerlight will probably be a superbright LED or a cyclops LED from DSE but not sure if it is apropiate im open to segestions but only have a day to get and do stuff. Top is clear LED so not much to obsqure the light. hope it would be good enough.
i know it looks quite crappy and i apologies in advance to anyone stick versing me.


some pics.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1558.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1549.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1548.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1557.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1552.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1559.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1560.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/DSCF1561.jpg

everything is completed.
pluged up 2 batery packs in seris turned the bot on and one of the packs must have shorted producing a high amount of heat and condensation as well as heating the wires. melting the pack 2 wires soldered onto the cells have also come off. this may have been the cause or hapened due to the heat.
i quickly unpluged everything removed the battery pack put it on the ground then removed the ductape or whatever tape it was (basicly removed itself) and thats what i got
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/Picture163.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/seanet1310/Picture162.jpg
not the solder hardend on the ground at the end of the positive lead


bot itself took some minor damage in the battery holder. but was easyerly replaced.

checked all the wireing and there is no way it could have sorted outside of the pack (everything is srinkraped and deans plugs). thank goodness the IBC seams to be ok. so down to 3 packs and 2 needed at any given time. lets hope i have some time between fights but without a weapon to power im thinking ill be ok power wise.

with the remaining packs i was thinking a slow discharge charge cycle. any thoughts from someone who has had this before would be great.
Should i try and repair the broken pack and run tests to see if a dogy cell caused the probelm or just chuck it.