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QLD Arenas
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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my vote would be IEC socket.

You can always find more of them if one gets damaged, and if it gets yanked on it just unplugs. If you are feeling fancy go these http://www.homanndesigns.com/store/images/iec_power.jpg with a switch and a fuse built in because why not Smile

For our display we had 12x 3mm blue LED's per segment to get it relatively even, so 252 LED's plus I think 4 per dot in the divider.
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Post Fri Aug 14, 2015 1:48 pm 
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Nick
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Thanks to the tip on Plastix - they have just what I need.

Good point about the IEC socket not breaking.
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Post Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:42 pm 
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Nick
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The driver controls and time display boxes are taking shape:



I wish coding was that easy!
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Post Sun Aug 16, 2015 2:22 pm 
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Jaemus
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very cool Smile
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Post Thu Aug 20, 2015 4:26 pm 
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Nick
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The arena lights are taking shape; all the metal and most of the wood is cut & drilled and the only material left to buy is the polycarb front cover.



Once the paint has dried more, I can screw the wood down to the backing aluminium, wire up the LEDs and test it out. Watching paint dry really is the most boring thing ever...
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Post Sun Aug 30, 2015 5:22 pm 
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miles&Jules
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love that light Cool …and that timer thing Very Happy
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Post Sun Aug 30, 2015 6:11 pm 
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Nick
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The lights are really just an excuse for me to use more hammertone paint - I would paint the entire house with it if I was allowed to. Laughing
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Post Sun Aug 30, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Nick
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The first light is finished and the next three are not far behind. The light is noticeably brighter than the commercial LED tubes I have in the workshop and much brighter than a dual fluro fitting. The coverage is pretty good too - four fittings should be enough to cover the whole arena.
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Post Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:49 pm 
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marto
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That's awesome nick. One more thing to cross of my huge list of things I would like to improve on the arena.

Steve
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Post Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:56 pm 
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Nick
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No problems - now the pressure is on Miles to shoot some awesome high-speed videos Laughing.
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Post Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:17 pm 
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Nick
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Hmm, these LEDs get pretty hot:



Over 60 degrees after several hours. That's 40 Degrees over the ambient temperature. Perhaps I should add some U channel to the back of the remaining lights?
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:47 pm 
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Valen
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perhaps we turn them off when battles aren't on?
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:40 pm 
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Nick
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Absolutely - I'd like to find a DMX switch that will make the lights part of the intelligent light show. Each light is using around 90W and there is no point frying the audience's eyeballs between matches.
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:55 pm 
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Nick
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So a three channel DMX relay controll board only costs $19.95. Let's see if I can get that working in time Smile. The other channels can be used to control a smoke machine and maybe some lower powered coloured arena lights; something to think about for the future.
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:20 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Yep i reckon if we cut the leds between long breaks would be fine especially if we have the fancy moving lights still going. Nick Can ya drill some holes in the top of that metal led holders?…that might vent some heat.
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Post Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:14 pm 
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