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Reprogramming Brushless ESCs - Complete - No Support Offered
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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
Posts: 5459
Location: Brisbane, QLD


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Yep it would be rather useless if it didn't.

Is this on one wire measured relative to ground? If so yes. If you measure the other wire it should do the opposite.

If you connect between the two wires you should see 20V and -20V. If one of the wires is constantly grounded (0V) relative to gnd. Then it is probably the unused wire. Try the other one.



Steve
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Post Wed Aug 07, 2013 4:46 pm 
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fryfrog



Joined: 28 Jul 2013
Posts: 12


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It struck me this morning when I woke up that the behavior I'm seeing would be what I'd expect from the original brushless firmware, so I'll also double check that I did everything right.

I was using eXtreme Burner instead of AVR Studio, so perhaps I missed setting the fuses properly or something.

I'll give the other output a listen for output too, just in case.

What about some of the earlier questions? Is the firmware / source on launchpad the same as what is on the modified tz85s you sell?

Post Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:47 pm 
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marto
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No but it's based on it with some mods.
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Post Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:59 pm 
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fryfrog



Joined: 28 Jul 2013
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I downloaded AtmelStudio 6.1, converted the project from 4->6 and installed WinAVR. I got it to compile and create a hex file. My ISP isn't recognized, so I used the simulator to get the correct low, high and lock fuse values. I then used eXtreme Burner to write the hex and fuse values to my first tz85.

While situating the chip socket cable, I must have miss-aligned it and I released some magic smoke. This was quickly followed by a fet popping and a frantic unplugging of the 5S battery it was hooked up to.

For the next one, I got the socket writer arranged first and *then* plugged it in and wrote the .hex and fuses. That part worked.

Low Fuse: 0xC1
High Fuse: 0xD9
Lock Fuse: 0xFF

When I hook everything up on the bench and connect a multimeter, right after powering on I get a few brief periods of ~4v, maybe 2-3 times. I figure this is the beeping. But I get this on all 3 wires. I've hooked the multimeter to all three possible combinations, A & C, A & B and B & C. They all give a few volts of power at startup, 2-3 times.

I've tried hooking the esc up to my throttle channel and powering on with the stick in both the full bottom and full top position. I've also tried hooking it to my elevator channel and allowing the spring to keep the stick centered.

What am I doing wrong?

I need another tz85, so I may as well order it from you... assuming you ship to the US?

This is a diff between the compiled .hex file and the one read back from the device. I don't have a clue what the couple line difference means, but at the very least what was written in almost exactly what was read back.

code:

fryfrog@apollo:$ diff -u Brushed.hex what_is_this.hex
--- Brushed.hex 2013-08-09 01:51:26.590362666 -0700
+++ what_is_this.hex    2013-08-09 02:37:15.760362478 -0700
@@ -82,6 +82,5 @@
 :1005100083BD10927200ADCFAA1BBB1B51E107C077
 :10052000AA1FBB1FA617B70710F0A61BB70B881F83
 :10053000991F5A95A9F780959095BC01CD01089512
-:04054000F894FFCF5D
-:08054400321801E0017C010204
+:10054000F894FFCF321801E0017C0102FFFFFFFFAA
 :00000001FF




The eeprom contents are very different though, nothing in the compiled eeprom and a bit in the read from esc. Of course, it has been powered on so it probably wrote stuff.

code:

fryfrog@apollo:$ diff -u Brushed.eep what_is_this.eep
--- Brushed.eep 2013-08-09 01:51:26.652363069 -0700
+++ what_is_this.eep    2013-08-09 02:37:15.778805973 -0700
@@ -1 +1,33 @@
+:10000000000102030405060708090A0B0C0D0E0F78
+:10001000101112131415161718191A1B1C1D1E1F68
+:10002000202122232425262728292A2B2C2D2E2F58
+:10003000303132333435363738393A3B3C3D3E3F48
+:10004000404142434445464748494A4B4C4D4E4F38
+:10005000505152535455565758595A5B5C5D5E5F28
+:10006000606162636465666768696A6B6C6D6E6F18
+:10007000707172737475767778797A7B7C7D7E7F08
+:10008000808182838485868788898A8B8C8D8E8FF8
+:10009000909192939495969798999A9B9C9D9E9FE8
+:1000A000A0A1A2A3A4A5A6A7A8A9AAABACADAEAFD8
+:1000B000B0B1B2B3B4B5B6B7B8B9BABBBCBDBEBFC8
+:1000C000C0C1C2C3C4C5C6C7C8C9CACBCCCDCECFB8
+:1000D000D0D1D2D3D4D5D6D7D8D9DADBDCDDDEDFA8
+:1000E000E0E1E2E3E4E5E6E7E8E9EAEBECEDEEEF98
+:1000F000F0F1F2F3F4F5F6F7F8F9FAFBFCFDFEFF88
+:10010000000102030405060708090A0B0C0D0E0F77
+:10011000101112131415161718191A1B1C1D1E1F67
+:10012000202122232425262728292A2B2C2D2E2F57
+:10013000303132333435363738393A3B3C3D3E3F47
+:10014000404142434445464748494A4B4C4D4E4F37
+:10015000505152535455565758595A5B5C5D5E5F27
+:10016000606162636465666768696A6B6C6D6E6F17
+:10017000707172737475767778797A7B7C7D7E7F07
+:10018000808182838485868788898A8B8C8D8E8FF7
+:10019000909192939495969798999A9B9C9D9E9FE7
+:1001A000A0A1A2A3A4A5A6A7A8A9AAABACADAEAFD7
+:1001B000B0B1B2B3B4B5B6B7B8B9BABBBCBDBEBFC7
+:1001C000C0C1C2C3C4C5C6C7C8C9CACBCCCDCECFB7
+:1001D000D0D1D2D3D4D5D6D7D8D9DADBDCDDDEDFA7
+:1001E000E0E1E2E3E4E5E6E7E8E9EAEBECEDEEEF97
+:1001F000F0F1F2F3F4F5F6F7F8F9FAFBFCFDFEFF87
 :00000001FF




Edit: Tried again w/ the r40 pre-compiled .hex file and see similar behavior. A read shows a small amount of difference and at startup, I get a brief burst of ~3v (switched to a 3S battery, for safety) at power on. Only one though, not the 2-3 of the previous one. Tested hooked to thr and ele channels, w/ thr at 0 and 100% at startup. Still also see the 3v on all 3 wires.

Post Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:30 pm 
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fryfrog



Joined: 28 Jul 2013
Posts: 12


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I've given in and simply ordered a pair of your pre-flashed devices. I just can't get my one surviving device to do anything useful.

Post Mon Aug 26, 2013 2:02 pm 
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Mouldy



Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 107
Location: Birmingham, England


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anyone know if one of these will work with the tz85's?

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RL-IMX1.html


i know it sais it will only work with calibratable escs... but seeing as the botbitz dont require and trimming up, maybe it'll work?

If not, are there any other flip switches on the market?... im pretty rubbish at driving upside down.

Post Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:25 am 
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fryfrog



Joined: 28 Jul 2013
Posts: 12


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Neat idea, but if you're using a programmable micro controller on board... the mixing for this is super simple. You *might* even be able to do it with a computer radio, but I'm not sure how.

On Vex, the code was just 2 lines and it was pretty simple after reviewing it. I can't remember it though and would have to dig it up in some files, but it was basically subtracting one axis from the other.

Post Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:45 am 
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Mouldy



Joined: 10 Aug 2011
Posts: 107
Location: Birmingham, England


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To be honest i don't know anything about vex etc, i'm more of a mechanical guy then electronics expert lol.

having thought about it...wondering if its possible to do it in the mixing on my dx8...

As i've got the 2 botbitz escs going to the RX the mixing is done in the tx... its only the fwd/rev channel that needs flipping.... Unless someone offers an off the shelf mix/flip unit it might be the only way.

Surprised no ones made one yet tbh.

Post Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:31 am 
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fryfrog



Joined: 28 Jul 2013
Posts: 12


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Oh, it isn't the tank mixing you're after but more the reverse. You could *probably* achieve that with a mix attached to a switch, but I'm not sure the DX8 is flexible enough. Maybe with er9x firmware for the 9X or 9XR radio.

Post Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:38 am 
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evil_dan2wik



Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Location: QLD


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Shouldn't it be cheaper to manufacture a brushed motor controller? Whats the difference? It can't be much since you can turn a brushless controller into a brushed controller. I know that a brushed is a H bridge and brushless is 3 half bridges but other than that, whats different?

Also, I'm looking at the power mosfet's data sheet for the plush 30 and it shows that each one can handle 80A. Whats the limiting factor for that?

Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:47 am 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 8511
Location: NSW


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quote:
Originally posted by evil_dan2wik:
Shouldn't it be cheaper to manufacture a brushed motor controller? Whats the difference? It can't be much since you can turn a brushless controller into a brushed controller. I know that a brushed is a H bridge and brushless is 3 half bridges but other than that, whats different?


Production and design wise, it is cheaper to produce a brushed controller due to less components and assembly requirements. However, the whole idea of the "hacked" brushless controllers is to take advantage of the mass produced china controllers that none of us could even come close to matching in terms of price or production.

The difference between the brushed and brushless controller other then the half bridges is essentially software and the abilities of the controller based on features.

quote:
Originally posted by evil_dan2wik:
Also, I'm looking at the power mosfet's data sheet for the plush 30 and it shows that each one can handle 80A. Whats the limiting factor for that?
If you look closely at the data sheets (in the graph sections), you will notice the 80A rating is when the mosfet is kept at a perfect 25'c, once the heat starts increasing, the fets capabilities start to fall. The limitation is generally how much heat you can remove from the fet to keep it as close to it's laboratory rating.
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Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:08 am 
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evil_dan2wik



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Location: QLD


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I think I could make a 30A brushed controller for less than $20 and would be smaller board size too. But why is there no mass produced brushed controllers?

Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:28 am 
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Knightrous
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There are plenty of mass produced 30A Brushed Controllers out in the wild.
Just most of them are crap when used in combat, over priced or just not suited to the application of robotics.

If you can build a 30A controller for $20, go for it Smile
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Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:49 am 
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marto
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Location: Brisbane, QLD


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*sigh*
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Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 10:19 am 
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evil_dan2wik



Joined: 05 Oct 2013
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Location: QLD


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Could someone post the chip ID of the mosfets from the TZ85A?

Post Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:54 am 
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