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Robowars 2013 Rule modifications
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Jaemus
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Joined: 01 Apr 2009
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I did lose a fight because my robot stopped due to the terrible switch I was using. As I predicted. But thats almost entirely my fault for using a terrible switch Razz Also that I would have gone on to win the fight is unlikely Razz

Long story short yeah Botbitz switches for all classes would be great, and "battle lights" integrated or no would also be great
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<Patrician|Away> what does your robot do, sam
<bovril> it collects data about the surrounding environment, then discards it and drives into walls

Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:28 pm 
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Knightrous
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Doesn't have to be a BotBitz switch Razz Miles and Jules DIY switches are working well for them, as long as it does the job.

WRT inbuilt LED, I think that might be possible for Beetles and Feather to have a simple SMD LED + SMD regulator on a mini-pcb hidden in the switch body somewhere, but it would mean you have to mount the switch close to an external panel to make the LED visible and you would probably be limited to 6S for most.
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 4:39 pm 
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Valen
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hmm, I was just going to put a "suitable" resistor in though a regulator is a better option, a sot-223 lm-317 is $1.50, plus 2 resistors,perhaps a cap and a 20ma 805 package LED which would be pretty damn bright, particularly in green.

Probably add $5 to the rrp, other big issue is at 26V (6s) its going to get ~30C hotter than ambient (ie 30C day it'll be 60C). Its got about half a watt to dissipate.

Hmm, Powering it from the BEC is easy, but is it good enough for a power light? A futzed up BEC = wonky reading.
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:29 pm 
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marto
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Ummm look if we are talking an ant switch I think a single normal bright SMD LED + resistor would be fine. Don't need to be blinded by it. If you set it up to be at min brightness at say 2S and just aim to keep its current below max at 4 or 6S.

I don't think anyone is going above 4S really and if they are well they can just use a non-light one.

Steve
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:59 pm 
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dyrodium
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It really is a piece of piss plugging a standard led and low value resistor into your receiver... That's all I did for the feather. Smile
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:01 pm 
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Glen
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^^ +1 Much easier than trying to tie it into the main wiring loom.

So i guess it's sorted then Smile switches for all!

Who's making the beetleweight switches <.<
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Knightrous
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quote:
Originally posted by Valen:
hmm, I was just going to put a "suitable" resistor in though a regulator is a better option, a sot-223 lm-317 is $1.50, plus 2 resistors,perhaps a cap and a 20ma 805 package LED which would be pretty damn bright, particularly in green.

Probably add $5 to the rrp, other big issue is at 26V (6s) its going to get ~30C hotter than ambient (ie 30C day it'll be 60C). Its got about half a watt to dissipate.


I was looking at the following components:
http://au.element14.com/national-semiconductor/lm3490im5-3-3-nopb/ic-ldo-reg/dp/1685652
http://au.element14.com/avago-technologies/asmt-ugb5-nv702/led-smd-plcc2-silicone-green/dp/1897149

And a 40R resistor.
<$3
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:38 pm 
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Valen
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you still need a pcb and to assemble it all
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:46 pm 
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Jaemus
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quote:
Originally posted by Knightrous:
Doesn't have to be a BotBitz switch Razz Miles and Jules DIY switches are working well for them, as long as it does the job


Yes it does, buying things online is much easier than designing, making, testing, remaking, and then retesting them Smile
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<Patrician|Away> what does your robot do, sam
<bovril> it collects data about the surrounding environment, then discards it and drives into walls

Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:06 pm 
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marto
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Yeh thinking about it switches should be kept separate. As you then need both wires to go to it as well. Which is more of a wiring hassle.

Steve
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Post Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:52 pm 
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seanet1310



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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Location: Adelaide


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quote:
Originally posted by dyrodium:
It really is a piece of piss plugging a standard led and low value resistor into your receiver... That's all I did for the feather. Smile


If BotBitz wishes to sell switches this may be the best bet. Almost everyone has spare receiver pins (maybe cut off on ants) and it is a 1 second wiring job and some tape to near the wheel arches or similar to be seen. Also relatively cheap. Even if kits are sold on the day to people who forget and they solder them (through hole LED, through hole resistor, 2 lengths of wire attached to a plug, wiring diagram, 10 cm solder). Cheap and saves the forfits. Once you got the process down someone could make them in a couple of minutes to sell complete on botbitz. Most becs should be fine.

No need to worry about voltage and resistor matching, no need to do any real rewiring of the bot. Plug and play option
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Post Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:04 am 
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Daniel
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does this mean our safety/tech inspections are going to involve more than weighing robots from now on? If we were doing proper inspections while weighing robots the power up times/power lights would have been noticed and enforced and we wouldn't need rule changes.

Post Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:03 am 
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dyrodium
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Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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It's more time consuming, but we really need the proper robowars style weigh - register and safety check with a checklist (switch, light, weapon safety and shutdown on loss of signal). I know i know being EO my self it's a nightmare, but Sean and Aaron did a great job getting feathers registered quickly and a two person team could manage a class registration with safety, I think. Smile
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Post Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:19 am 
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Knightrous
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quote:
Originally posted by Daniel:
If we were doing proper inspections while weighing robots the power up times/power lights would have been noticed and enforced and we wouldn't need rule changes.


Would have been zero robots competing at nationals then.
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Post Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:22 am 
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Daniel
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This is the camera setup that we need
http://www.break.com/index/mountain-bike-run-with-awesome-360-degree-camera-2391523

Post Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:57 pm 
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