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Team Endgame USA - Illinois
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


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Damn that is tiny, good luck on the assembly process perhaps some lube is in order lol
also that is one sexy looking bot can't wait to see it finished
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Post Sat Nov 29, 2014 9:02 am 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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I am torn on my next decision. after the frame is done I am going to finish the surface. As far as I see I have three options.

1.) Polish to a luster (far too time consuming so probably not)
2.) Bead Blast for a matte finish.
3.) Use a brass brush and a rotary tool to create a brushed finish.

I am going to anodize the beater but leave the frame its natural color. I have to do something to it because tooling marks drive me nuts.

What do you guys think?

Post Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:18 am 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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Blast it with glass beads.

Post Sun Nov 30, 2014 10:07 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Bead blasting might not remove tooling marks unless they are small. A low-tech finish I discovered is to use a worn-out 120 grit belt on a belt sander of linisher. It doesn't remove much material; you just get a good polish. Its only good for outside surfaces and it gets rid of tooling marks extremely well.
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Post Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:00 pm 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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Blasting in stages is a way to camouflage toolmarks. First coarse grit, then fine, and finishing with glass beads.

Tool marks will partialy reappear if you try anodizing or simular.


I'm building a tumbler to do such a job, but even that needs some preparation to get everything perfect.


Last edited by maddox on Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:19 pm; edited 1 time in total

Post Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:34 pm 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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I was leaning towards bead blasting. I'll sand the tooling marks out then bead blast it. The same way I did the aluminum wheel mold.

Post Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:02 pm 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


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With a decent grinder (500w+) polishing something that size isn't really all that bad tbh.

I polish stainless without too much trouble, just start with a fastcut wheel and compound then go to a fine, don't push too hard and let the compound do the work. You want to push hard enough that the motor is just a bit loaded, take about 10% off its free running speed.

Sand it up first with a few grades if you have deep tool marks (probably finish sanding at about 1000 grit)

Probably looking under an hour to polish that up ok.
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Post Mon Dec 01, 2014 12:17 pm 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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I made the wheels and cast them. they look pretty good. I still need to glue them. Unfortunately I broke my special 4-40 tap for titanium. So now I get to break out some ferric chloride and melt the tap. of course I have 2 more holes to do as well. So much for that $40

I am seriously debating just making the thing out of 6061. At least that way I know it will be good.


Last edited by Jolijar on Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:24 am; edited 1 time in total

Post Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:19 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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If you can Tig weld that tap should be plenty easy to remove Smile Awesome machine work on that frame too!
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Post Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:22 am 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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no need I can use Ferric Chloride (used for making circuit boards) and immerse the frame and in about 24 hours it will eat the HSS tap. or so the internet tells me.

Post Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:25 am 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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Location: Sydney


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Just make sure it won't do anything against Ti, I know it doesn't against Al but do be sure.
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Post Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:27 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Let me know how the Ferric Chloride works on the tap and how strong the solution was. The last time I broke a tap, I used a solid carbide drill to remove it - worked really well. There used to be a special tap removing solution that was mainly nitric acid, It worked very well but was also extremely dangerous. Here is a reference: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/broken-tap-removal-chemical-methods-198135/
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Post Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:38 am 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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Waiting to work on my drum bot until my new 3d printer comes in.
I started rebuilding my 1lb bot Death by 1001 cuts. My old frame got bent up a bit and the motor I was using was a tad anemic. Now I have my original 130w brushless motor back while still maintaining a low profile. should be much more powerful.

Post Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:35 am 
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Valen
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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Location: Sydney


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I like your design style ;->
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Post Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:35 am 
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Jolijar



Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL


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Thanks, I took first place. Smile



The robot next to it belongs to another competitor he took 3rd place.
I really liked his design.

Post Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:42 am 
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