Damn that is tiny, good luck on the assembly process perhaps some lube is in order lol
also that is one sexy looking bot can't wait to see it finished _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Sat Nov 29, 2014 9:02 am
Jolijar
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
I am torn on my next decision. after the frame is done I am going to finish the surface. As far as I see I have three options.
1.) Polish to a luster (far too time consuming so probably not)
2.) Bead Blast for a matte finish.
3.) Use a brass brush and a rotary tool to create a brushed finish.
I am going to anodize the beater but leave the frame its natural color. I have to do something to it because tooling marks drive me nuts.
What do you guys think?
Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:18 am
maddox
Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium
Blast it with glass beads.
Sun Nov 30, 2014 10:07 am
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Bead blasting might not remove tooling marks unless they are small. A low-tech finish I discovered is to use a worn-out 120 grit belt on a belt sander of linisher. It doesn't remove much material; you just get a good polish. Its only good for outside surfaces and it gets rid of tooling marks extremely well. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:00 pm
maddox
Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium
Blasting in stages is a way to camouflage toolmarks. First coarse grit, then fine, and finishing with glass beads.
Tool marks will partialy reappear if you try anodizing or simular.
I'm building a tumbler to do such a job, but even that needs some preparation to get everything perfect.
Last edited by maddox on Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:34 pm
Jolijar
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
I was leaning towards bead blasting. I'll sand the tooling marks out then bead blast it. The same way I did the aluminum wheel mold.
Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:02 pm
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
With a decent grinder (500w+) polishing something that size isn't really all that bad tbh.
I polish stainless without too much trouble, just start with a fastcut wheel and compound then go to a fine, don't push too hard and let the compound do the work. You want to push hard enough that the motor is just a bit loaded, take about 10% off its free running speed.
Sand it up first with a few grades if you have deep tool marks (probably finish sanding at about 1000 grit)
Probably looking under an hour to polish that up ok. _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Mon Dec 01, 2014 12:17 pm
Jolijar
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
I made the wheels and cast them. they look pretty good. I still need to glue them. Unfortunately I broke my special 4-40 tap for titanium. So now I get to break out some ferric chloride and melt the tap. of course I have 2 more holes to do as well. So much for that $40
I am seriously debating just making the thing out of 6061. At least that way I know it will be good.
Last edited by Jolijar on Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:24 am; edited 1 time in total
Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:19 am
Glen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
no need I can use Ferric Chloride (used for making circuit boards) and immerse the frame and in about 24 hours it will eat the HSS tap. or so the internet tells me.
Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:25 am
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
Just make sure it won't do anything against Ti, I know it doesn't against Al but do be sure. _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:27 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Let me know how the Ferric Chloride works on the tap and how strong the solution was. The last time I broke a tap, I used a solid carbide drill to remove it - worked really well. There used to be a special tap removing solution that was mainly nitric acid, It worked very well but was also extremely dangerous. Here is a reference:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/broken-tap-removal-chemical-methods-198135/ _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:38 am
Jolijar
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
Waiting to work on my drum bot until my new 3d printer comes in.
I started rebuilding my 1lb bot Death by 1001 cuts. My old frame got bent up a bit and the motor I was using was a tad anemic. Now I have my original 130w brushless motor back while still maintaining a low profile. should be much more powerful.
Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:35 am
Valen Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney
I like your design style ;-> _________________ Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets
Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:35 am
Jolijar
Joined: 22 Feb 2013
Posts: 96
Location: Dekalb, IL
Thanks, I took first place.
The robot next to it belongs to another competitor he took 3rd place.
I really liked his design.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum