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Annoying Box Rush - Team Knightrous - QLD
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Location: NSW


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Annoying Box Rush - Team Knightrous - QLD

1.5 Weeks till nationals and OVER9000! went out the window when the beaters turned out to be unusable (Will shelve that idea till early next year).
So time to fall on the oldest backup plan ever...
Build a Brick/Wedge!

ANNOYING BOX RUSH


Specifications
Chassis/Armour: 6mm & 10mm Aluminium, 5mm Hardox 450.
Weapon: Wickly fast drive train, a Hardox wedge and trash talking.
Drive: 18V DeWat 3-speed gearmotors with 4"x2" Colson wheels, T5 belt drive
Controller: BotBitz 85A ESCs for drive
Batteries: 18.5v 5S Turnigy NanoTech 4500mAh 65C-130C LiPol

Essentially, FarmBoy 0.75....
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Post Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:57 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Nice ...where did all the time go?....those toothed belts should work great ...you probably wont need a tensioner with them either right?
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Post Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:32 am 
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Knightrous
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quote:
Originally posted by miles&Jules:
Nice ...where did all the time go?....those toothed belts should work great ...you probably wont need a tensioner with them either right?


They shouldn't, but I'll be putting a pair on like Farmboy had to add a little bit of preload and prevent them from jumping teeth under load.
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Post Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Knightrous
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After a day in bed with a screaming migrane, I had a lot of enthusiasm this evening to clean up the mill and start making some bearing blocks.


I love my fly cutter... so smooooth....


Just need to fit the 4-jaw to the lathe and spin up the bearing block Razz
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Post Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:40 pm 
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Knightrous
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Location: NSW


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Ah, love the chuck mounting on the C6... Crack 3 nuts, twist the locking plate, pull the chuck and off it comes.... So so simple, makes a chuck swap take 1 minute tops!


I don't have a dial indicator, so the quickest way I could think of for lining up the bearing blocks into the 4-jaw was to center mark it, center punch it then use the tail stock in the lathe to center and hold the billet while I adjust the jaws into place. Worked a treat and seems to be within 0.25mm according to my calipers, which isn't bad for my machining skills Razz


Center mark stayed center with no wobble, good enough!


Ran the 15mm drill bit through it to give the boring bar some room for machining out the bearing pockets.


First bearing in


Second bearing in


Bearing block, shaft and pulley in place, just needs drilled and tapped, then bolted to the base.


Quick hook up of the belt and it's looking nice.
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Post Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:04 pm 
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Glen
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Lookin good!

That's how i stick non square stuff in the 4 jaw too. Would probably push the limits of travel of most indicators trying to align something that size with one anyways.
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Post Wed Sep 25, 2013 11:13 pm 
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Knightrous
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Location: NSW


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Now on holidays... 2 days to build 13.75kg of robots.... >.>








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Post Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:09 pm 
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Nick
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C'mon, three whole days to get it finished! Is that extended base plate for a wedge, or is it going to be a real box all 'round?

Post Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:03 pm 
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Knightrous
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I'm reusing the original 6mm aluminium base plate from Farmboy (see the track difference!) and the extended bit will be cut off shortly. It will be boxy on all sides, but have an attached wedge a bit like Warning. Still not sure what I'll do wedge wise, but what ever weight is left will probably go into it Razz
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Post Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:10 pm 
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RogueTwoRobots



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Love it, looks so beefy!

This is probably my lack of experience showing in drivetrains that don't simply consist of a couple of cheap drills, but what keeps the free-running shafts from coming out of the bearing blocks?

If, say, the timing pulleys weren't perfectly aligned, I would expect some lateral movement from the shafts, resulting in the possibility that the driven wheel could pop out. Is it just the force of the press-fit in the bearings that holds the shaft in?
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:23 am 
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Knightrous
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Location: NSW


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quote:
Originally posted by RogueTwoRobots:
This is probably my lack of experience showing in drivetrains that don't simply consist of a couple of cheap drills, but what keeps the free-running shafts from coming out of the bearing blocks?


These Smile



It's just a M5 bolt and a washer that tightens up against the inner bearing rim.

After a quick trip to my locally over priced bearing shot for some bolts and a tap, I've now got the robot to a point where if I solder the motor wires to the ESC's and plug the battery in, I can drive it Razz




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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:30 pm 
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Knightrous
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I don't know what I'm doing




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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:11 pm 
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Knightrous
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quote:
Originally posted by Knightrous:
I don't know what I'm doing



Or maybe I do....







The external 5mm Hardox 450 armor floats on four 38X25 shock mounts.
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:59 pm 
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Nick
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Yeah, that looks at least mild annoying Laughing

Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:06 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Nice touch......please can you leave those wheels exposed ?he he.
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Post Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:05 pm 
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