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Which 3D printer to buy...
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
Posts: 121
Location: Newcastle


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Which 3D printer to buy...

Hey peeps,

I know a lot of you do 3d printing (I've watched a few of Angus's vids), and I just got my first paycheck for the new job with 2 months of back pay...So I'm looking at buying a 3d printer. Before I go and buy one though I am making some test models and getting them printed at the library so I know some of what I'm getting myself into, I should have an antweight chassis on Monday Smile

The one that currently has my attention the most is the "Malyan M180" - Hobbykings dual extruder. (It looks like some sort of rebrand, but there's so many rebrands that look like this I don't know which is the original or if it's different companies ripping off an open source design)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__84281__Malyan_M180_Dual_Head_3D_Printer_AU_Plug_AU_Warehouse_.html

For $800, with postage and few rolls of filament taking it to $900 it looks real good.

Another option I'm looking at is an 'Australian' ebay seller to save a couple of hundred bucks, but the printer doesn't look as good and I wouldn't expect as much support from them as hobbyking.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3D-printer-dual-extruder-New-Extruder-Dual-nozzle-W-Abs-or-Pla-Spool-/351576923838

But then if I decide dual head isn't worth it HK has their version of the Prusa i3 which seems to have most of the past issues solved for $450 or that ebay seller again has them for $310.

I've searched around for local or Aussie based sellers, Bunnings has Dremel brand ones now and there's even a mob in Newcastle that sells a few different ones - but they're all over a grand for single extrusion. At least I can get filament locally.

So my questions are:
- Would it be worth spending the extra to get the HK one?
- Have I missed a better seller?
- Is it worth dual extrusion?

My guy feelings are probably for all three questions. Otherwise I'll listen to my inner metalhead and save a bit longer to get a small lathe/mill combo instead.

Thanks.

Post Sat May 07, 2016 10:25 pm 
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evil_steve



Joined: 06 Sep 2015
Posts: 295
Location: Adelaide, SA


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I'm in a similar position (although I also have space considerations ie the wife has pointed out that until we move we don't actually have anywhere to put a 3D printer). A few thoughts though:

- Jaycar also sells 3D printers, including another clone of whatever the M180 is cloning (the Flashforge Creator X ?), but it's a touch more expensive than Hobbyking ...

- There are a couple of Australian online stores I've found, 3D Printer Superstore and 3D Printing Solutions . I have no experience with either of them but their prices seem similar and reasonable for what they're selling. Annoyingly, the latter one has a PO Box 5 minutes from me but no actual shopfront, although they only seem to sell UP printers.

- Printing parts for combat bots means you really want to be able to print in ABS, especially for an ant chassis. From what I gather, any printer with a heated bed will claim it can print ABS but to do so without warping really requires one with an enclosure.

- Angus and others seem to rate the UP Mini the best "first" ABS printer (~$900 from the Australian places above), BUT 1) it requires expensive UP branded filament (unless you hack it not to); 2) it has a comparatively small build volume; and 3) (probably only relevant to me) it doesn't seem to work well with Linux. I suspect I'll end up getting a Flashforge Dreamer, it's a bit more but seems worth it, Angus seems to like it at least.

Post Sun May 08, 2016 8:47 am 
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James2



Joined: 07 May 2015
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Location: South Australia


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I have an xyz-printer, which is a good printer helped me get the basics down pat and is big enough for all my ant weight bot prints.
Also came with the software to convert the stl files.
However i do wish i got a dual extruder so i could use dis solvable filament.
And i can print both abs and pla which is handy with my bots being abs and the finer things i print in pla.

This is the only printer i have so i cant really compare it to anything else.

Post Sun May 08, 2016 12:40 pm 
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Glen
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I'm a n00b at 3d printing tech as i don't care much for it, but the UP mini i got from angus has been great so far.

It happily prints ABS to the extent of the table once you level the bed properly and blast the insides with a heat gun for 20 seconds or so. The resistor mod is literally one resistor in line with the wire to let you use the esun $20 for 1kg filaments from hobbyking. The resistor plug in board is 20 or 30 $$ to buy pre-made.

The auto support generation is really really good, making the dual nozzle stuff a bit irrelevant unless you want twin colours (total wank). Although annoying that you can't disable the support generation sometimes.

If all you want to do is ABS function prints I can't see much being better. 120x120 is a pretty huge print. IDK if any other brands would manage that in ABS anyway without warping.

If you want to print all manner of filaments like the PETG and PLA etc maybe something else is more ideal. Trying to use anything other than ABS in the up is a bitch of a bitch as nothing is really adjustable AKA nozzle temps, extrude rate and print speed etc.

Angus knows all. Wait for him to weigh in haha Razz
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 2:21 pm 
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Nick
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My tip would be to shell out for better slicing software - Simplify 3D has made printing so much easier! If your slicer is smart enough to generate supports, you don't need a dual extruder to print dissolvable support material, which could be a major saving.

If you get a cheap printer, get one that is based on a really common design. They have heaps of after-market options and upgrades, allowing you to get a better printer by instalments and better community support.
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 2:31 pm 
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Knightrous
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quote:
Originally posted by Glen:
he resistor mod is literally one resistor in line with the wire to let you use the esun $20 for 1kg filaments from hobbyking. The resistor plug in board is 20 or 30 $$ to buy pre-made.

There is a free software hack that lets you control the temps for the UP Mini, no need for a resistor hack.
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 2:33 pm 
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Glen
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I dont believe the software hack works anymore with the latest software release - and you can't downgrade again. Or something like that.
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 2:38 pm 
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marto
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And you can disable support and I have used the hack with the latest version of the software. Brand new mini as of 5 months ago.

I think computer just hates you glen.

Steve
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 3:44 pm 
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marto
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TBH Up mini is a bit outdated and the not being able to print PLA is pretty annoying but for the price its still a good little machine.

Not sure what Angus would recommend he is probably the expert.

Steve
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 3:48 pm 
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Glen
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quote:
Originally posted by marto:

I think computer just hates you glen.



A fair assessment indeed.
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Post Sun May 08, 2016 5:44 pm 
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Ondray



Joined: 06 Jul 2015
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Location: Newcastle


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For the likes of the Up mini and the dremel brand printers I plan on avoiding ones with proprietary filament just out of principle. We lost the war with paper printers, the war for 3D printers is currently in the favor of open source. Plus it's less hassle to not have to hack my printer just so I can use cheaper and probably better filament.

The plan for whatever I end up getting if it's not enclosed is to enclose it myself - I've got a heap of polycarb so I can put windows on that M180 or I'll use some old polystyrene vege boxes to build a proper insulated box to go around a prusa i3 style one.

As for the dual heads - there's one saying he wished he had it and two saying it not necessary - keep in mind there's more to it than dissolvable supports. Things like being able to print a wheel with the tire on, print carbon-fibre filament layers into a bigger design for more strength or using conductive filament to print circuit boards (though at the moment it wouldn't handle robot currents).

Post Tue May 10, 2016 12:17 am 
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mrtmps



Joined: 15 May 2016
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Some updates on the UP Mini and other UP Printers. The comment about UP Mini Printers not printing PLA is partially true. In fact many printer brands jam with PLA. You need to use a Jam Free PLA. We use Polymaker Polyplus and Polymax PLA in all of the UP Printers and it prints really well. Polymaker spent a lot of time developing this Jam Free Technology into their filaments.

Also some news that may please many users. Tiertime the manufacturer of the UP and Afina Brand have announced that Nozzle Temperature control will be added to the first release of the new UP Studio Software due for release with the UP Mini 2 in May / June.

This should resolve the limitations on ABS Filament and Nylon etc.

Tiertime have said that many other print options will be added to UP Studio in future releases.

An interesting point on why UP Filament prints at 260 to 270 deg C. Tiertime have always said that they believe that ABS prints better at the higher temperature. Like many users we somewhat doubted this claim thinking it locked users into their filament. We recently supplied some UP Printers to 3 Schools that also have Makerbot printers. One school used the UP Filament in their Makerbot and increased the temperature to 260 - 270 and found the print quality improved by 80%. We advised the other schools about this and their tests show the same result.

We hope to get feedback from other schools with other brands printing ABS at the higher temp.

Regards
Michael Tyson

Post Mon May 16, 2016 12:47 pm 
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James2



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Mrtmps is a spamer.

Post Mon May 16, 2016 12:49 pm 
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mrtmps



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No intention to spam. Just answering questions in the topic.

Post Mon May 16, 2016 12:58 pm 
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Nick
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That Polymax filament is fantastic - pricey but worth it IMHO.
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Post Mon May 16, 2016 3:54 pm 
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