I don't know if I can make the side panels angled cuz it adds weight for the same thickness, but great suggestion none the less. I guess the easiest thing to do is to leave more space between the side panels and the wheels.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:24 am
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Yeah I can have 3.2mm hardox or 6mm Ti for the same weight, but I need to do more research about their yield strength cuz if the panels get bent, my wheels are stuck.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:28 am
miles&Jules Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Angling the sides of a vertical spinner is a problem - the wheels will be further in-board and will lift off the floor with even slight gyro tilting. The only time I can remember angled armour working well on a drum bot is with 722:
That style of armour has its own compromises; its pretty hard to add outside axle bearings and it weighs quite a bit. It also makes wedging the bot up from the side easier. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Mon Oct 03, 2016 3:58 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Did a bit of research and I think 14.4V 9000mah is pretty safe for my bot.
So here is the new layout... The electronics part is now smaller (with the weapon motor sticking out of the imaginary top armor), so the whole bot is now shorter. Maybe this time I can finally have hardox side armor.
Btw where the missing battery was will now become the safety link, wires and stuff like that.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:14 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
That's always my plan - a smaller volume means thicker armour . One thing I just noticed; the drive motors are almost touching back to back and they will have quite long axles. I would allow plenty of room where the axles go through the inner bulkheads so that the drivetrain is easy to lift out without major disassembly - having to rip most of the bot apart to change a motor is very stressful in the short time between rounds at a competition. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:28 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Well。。。 The motors are actually mounted onto the side walls in the current design so the motor does not come off the robot the same way as motors on other robots do. Currently the motors are removed by first taking the side armor off. If I would like them to come out from the middle I will have to add a ton of width.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:59 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Ugh I guess I didn't explain myself well. The motors are actually held onto the side panels by a set of horizontal mounts that are not in the render...
The mounts will be right above and below the motor, that's why the motors don't come out from the top.
I will be thinking about ways to get this part fixed, but I don't know how much I can change. I guess I will try anyway.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:03 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
And, thanks for your advice, Nick. You just saved my pitstops XD.
Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:05 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
OK, I was wondering how the gearboxes were held in . From the renders, the front of the P60 appears to pass through a cut-out in the bulkhead - remember that the 755 motor is wider than the P60 so the bulkhead cut-out will have to be large enough for the motor to pass through. That means the bulkhead won't be offering much support to the gearbox. What most people do in that mounting situation is to add a spacer under the P60 and use four screws through the base plate to secure it.
You should probably also have some support around the rear of each motor to stop them breaking free of the gearboxes. The front mounting screws on the motors are not the best and the motors can shift during impacts, possibly leading to smashed magnets or seized up gearboxes. The supports don't have to be anything special; chopping board plastic works well. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Now Micro Magnum has a motor mounting system! Finally I don't have to take the whole thing apart to access the motors.
This is done by a pair of mounting plates (top and bot) , which clamp the motors (or gearboxes to be exact), and a pair of mounting blocks which fix he plates onto the frame.
Big thanks to Nick who pointed the problem out! You saved my bot so many times XD.
Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:45 am
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Its also handy that the motors are caged in - you can add some stiff foam around them to keep them in place during big shock impacts. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Thu Oct 06, 2016 11:33 am
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
I'm sorry that I did not explain this clearly. On the P60 gearboxes there are mounting holes on the top and bottom sides, the top and bot plates in this design are bolted with the gearbox.
Shock mounting is surely the way to go, but it adds height to the motor cage assembly and may make the groove cut in the chassis too big for the chassis to hold up.
But this is by no means the final design so when I came up with a way to shock mount the motors I will certainly do it.
Thu Oct 06, 2016 1:26 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
That's all good - I meant to stuff some foam inside the rails where the motor cans are closest - just four small squares or strips will do. As I mentioned earlier, the motors have relatively weak mounting points on their front faces and the M3 screws can easily come loose, or the threads strip out, or the entire front face of the motor can deform.
Adding some support to the motors at the rear of the cans eliminates the problem and since the new plates are so close to the motors, filling in the gaps with a little foam (or plastic for that matter) is a light & easy improvement.
Doing a complete gearbox suspension system is difficult, particularly when you are driving the front wheels with belts _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Thu Oct 06, 2016 1:41 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
OK I see what you mean, that's a really nice idea. Thanks!
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