Thanks for the info.

About the screw holes themselves, what size are they? One source said M5 but the website said 10-32.

BaneBots P60s have 10-32 mounting threads, roughly 10mm deep.

Thanks for the info.

Just found a thread conversion chart and it said 10-32 has an "equivalence" of M5*0.8... Does it mean that they are the same or are they actually different?

EDIT: OK just searched on google... Seems like they have the same outer diameter and that's good enough for me since I don't have threads on my frame.

Although they look very similiar they are different and will damage the threads in the gearbox if you try to put them in more than a few turns.

You'll need to get some 10-32's

You'll need to do a 5mm clearance hole for a 10-32, as 3/16 is too small

Last edited by pilleya on Sat Apr 08, 2017 5:54 pm; edited 1 time in total

Yeah definitely, thank god that I don't have m5 anywhere else on my bot so that I can't use the wrong thread and cause damage.

You can force an M5 screw into a 10-32 thread but I wouldn't recommend it. Some people re-tap the holes to M5 but that leaves you with a weakened thread that wears faster and can pull out more easily. the best solution is to hunt down a handful of the right sized screws. Bolt.com.au is one source
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

I totally agree, it's better not to take the risk of breaking the frame.

Blackwoods has 10-32s in stock last time I checked.

WIP: Added most screws through the last few days. Added about 1mm to dimensions of the motors to represent the 1mm rubber sheets for absorbing shock. Re-assembled the frame in Solidworks... Found a few errors with fitting and corrected them.

Question: Can I have multiple switches on my bot? (I found that a single Fingertech switch wouldn't be enough.)

Tapped every banebots I've had to m5 with no problems. Most of the UK guys do the same. Don't listen to these filthy imperialists
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

You're a metric hipster Glen and no good will come of it. Also, its quite OK to have more than one switch but it does make life more complicated for you and the safety inspectors.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

There isn't really a good reason not to use 10-32's.

How are you planning to manufacture the parts, you have pockets which would require a CNC mill/router and you also have slots with no radius/fillet. So waterjet and mill? The design seems extremely costly if you don't have your own CNC.

Also what wheels are those?

LOL

Yeah I think I will go with 10-32s. (I don't have any taps to begin with.)

About the switch, I expect to have 250A current, what kind of switch should I have? (Yes there are a whole lot of switches above 250A, but they seems to be too heavy.)

I'm going to outsource the frame for sure. Maybe I can get a lower price from Taobao but I don't know.

Probably will be lasered and milled. I had to do those cuts cuz otherwise it just won't have the weight for a weapon like this.

Those are Banebot wheels. http://www.banebots.com/category/T81P_39.html