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Total Recoil - Chunkulator - NSW
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evil_steve



Joined: 06 Sep 2015
Posts: 304
Location: Adelaide, SA


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That's an awesome store!

Post Mon Feb 27, 2017 10:22 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Latest version:


Managed to save the weight of the sidecar things and got the drivetrains inside the main body. Working on getting geometry of the front in line with the "perpendicular to floor within 1" except a spatula or wedge integral to the functioning of the weapon being no wider that 1/4 of the width of the robot" rule at the moment.

Post Fri Mar 03, 2017 9:09 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Got the frame and hinge together this weekend.


Next to weld the flipper arms to the hinge and get some pins set up to take the springs.

Post Sun Mar 05, 2017 9:21 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Got my trapezoidal lead nut today. Apparently it's cast iron rather than mild steel. I've never welded anything claiming to be cast iron before. Although I've been shopping for a decent TIG unit, my welding technology is fairly rudimentary - gasless MIG only right now.

Do I need to use some fancy welding technique to bond mild steel to cast iron or should I just give it a crack with the old gasless MIG and see what happens?

Post Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:07 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 3973
Location: ipswich QLD


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Be great if you can get the releasing mechanisum to work reliably- i had that problem with slinky in the beginning- in the end i used a winch and its original reel as a crank- it worked fine only it needed a senser/ switch to stop if from tripping- so most fights it was flipping the whole time when i didnt want it to ha ha- i was using half a garge door spring- plan to get it working better at some stage- so we can have a spring on spring battle🤖
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Post Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:24 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Welding cast iron is difficult as it is quite brittle and likes to crack. Welding it to mild steel is even more of a challenge. Google it and there are plenty of useful pages.
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Post Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:10 pm 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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Easiest way to connect cast iron to steel with MIG is to use stainless steel wire, preferably 307 of 316ti with a high amp setting



Not a strong weld, but it's the best I have done in the past.

For me, welding cast iron is done with TIG and 307.

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 1:27 am 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Do you pre-heat Maddox?

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 6:22 am 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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Is cast iron to stainless an easier join? I could use stainless bar for my spring pushers and weld it to the iron nut with stainless MIG wire.

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 6:29 am 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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I didn't pre-heat and used pure argon.

Not the most easy weld to make, but it's a lot easier than using stick and cast iron electrode.

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:26 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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I meant is it easier to join cast iron to stainless (using a stainless MIG wire) or to join cast iron to mild steel (using a stainless MIG wire).

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:50 pm 
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maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


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It's easier using 307 wire to join any kind of steel, cast, mild, low/high alloy or stainless, than welding with any other kind of wire or electrode.

But the welds and the affected area will stay a weak spot.

But my experience says that the weak spot stil is stronger than any other way of joining those different materials.

Post Tue Mar 07, 2017 5:32 pm 
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chunkulator



Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219


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I managed to get the arm welded up and installed some pins to take some springs today:


I decided to weld a plate on the front that I can screw whatever wedge or spatula I want to. I can potentially have a range of these for different opponents or potentially even a full width wedge to compete as an open featherweight.

Predictably I wasn't able to do any test flips today by pulling out the lock-down pin - the forces involved were way too big. That will have to wait until I have made the quick-release mechanism.

Post Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:19 pm 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 8511
Location: NSW


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A gear motor and a snail cam might be a sufficient load and fire mechanism. It appears to work well in these two examples.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63BY414Va0E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i77pEnyszdI
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Post Mon Mar 13, 2017 12:27 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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Those springs look serious!
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Post Mon Mar 13, 2017 6:04 am 
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