www.robowars.org

RoboWars Australia Forum Index -> General Chatter

just wondering
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 168, 169, 170  Next

Post new topic   Reply to topic
  Author    Thread
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

@ Mario: I am just looking for the best way to get all the enamel off all the strands. The motor leads will be soldered to a MT 60 connector, so all the leads will be the same length.

@ Glen: ever tried paint stripper? Its the first thing on my list to experiment with. I tried burning the enamel off, but it doesn't seem reliable when there are many thin strands.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:57 am 
 View user's profile Send private message
Philip
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


 Reply with quote  

Is it possible to replace the wire rather than stripping it?
_________________
So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:20 am 
 View user's profile Send private message
maddox



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium


 Reply with quote  

@ Philip. Most brushless motor leads are extensions of the windings with shrinkwrap. So, no, the removal of the enamel still is important to solder the leads.

@ Nick, removing enamel from copper.
As Glen points out, heat will do. But that involves risks.
Chemicaly, it depends on kind of enamel used. You don't have a gaschromatograph handy?

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:29 am 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

Good news and bad news:

I tried out several on-line recommendations on one of Decimator's burnt out motors. An extra hot 425 C soldering iron did nothing except leave some flux residue and a little solder on the cut ends of the wires. Soldering at the same temperature on an asprin also did nothing except create a lot of dangerous smoke and leave a sticky residue on the wire.

Dipping in dichloromethane paint stripper for 10 minutes removed about 10% of the enamel. This paint stripper usually melts any paint, the applicator brush AND your rubber gloves!

Flaming the wires and then dipping them in paint stripper got about 75% of the enamel off but there was still a residue on many wires that needs to be scraped off. I don't know what brand of motor this is (probably Scorpion), but its made with super tough wire. The only on-line technique I didn't try was a hot bath in molten caustic soda and salt - I don't have enough protective gear or life insurance for that Laughing

The good news:

After all the above, I tried a hot soldering iron on the actual wire of the new motor for Mr Mangle: it seems it uses low temperature 'solder-through' enamel and the solder flowed right on after some heating up. I just hope that doesn't translate into an easily damaged motor but the problem is solved.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:19 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message
Valen
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 07 Jul 2004
Posts: 4436
Location: Sydney


 Reply with quote  

if your motor windings are 260C you're gonna have a bad time either way ;->
_________________
Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:17 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger ICQ Number
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

Yeah, there is that. Perhaps I should wipe a little epoxy over the windings just to keep them from moving when the enamel is softer from heating.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:32 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message
timnew



Joined: 19 Jun 2015
Posts: 48


 Reply with quote  

sorry if we have a battery thread already.

Just wondering the best way to solder lips cells/tabs into packs. i know commercial packs have pcb's that the tabs slot into to make em solid and secure from crushing etc.

any help would be appreciated.

Post Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:15 am 
 View user's profile Send private message
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

All the packs I have used recently skip the PCB and just solder the tabs directly to each other. They use little blocks of high density foam under the tabs to hold everything in place and then have layers of kapton tape and thicker plastic film over the tabs to protect them.

It sounds dodgy but works well. The PCB sounds like it should be even better if it was combined with the foam blocks; maybe its due to cost & complexity? If you are making multiple packs, perhaps its worth getting some PCBs made by a cheap prototyping service.

Another protection 'trick' I like is to use heavy vinyl heatshink, which you can get on line from InsulTab. It is much thicker than regular tube and much harder to puncture or tear.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:46 am 
 View user's profile Send private message
Philip
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


 Reply with quote  

What should 3 mm mild steel cost? I am looking at about 360 mm * 1200 mm (or whatever the standard size is). I hope to buy some soon and just want to know roughly what to expect.
_________________
So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

Post Tue May 03, 2016 4:55 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message
Glen
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


 Reply with quote  

A full 2.4x1.2 sheet is about $100
_________________
www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Post Tue May 03, 2016 5:13 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Philip
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


 Reply with quote  

Wow. Thanks.
_________________
So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

Post Tue May 03, 2016 5:16 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

Paintball tanks

Has anyone successfully bought paintball tanks internationally? I just got an email that the empty CO2 tank I bought with a pile of fittings in the US can't be shipped as it is "flammable".

While that sounds crazy, there is no arguing with shipping companies, so I wonder if its just that brand of tank or if it is a general thing.

Update:

Following on from that, the cheapest tank I can find in Sydney is $59 - does that sound about right for a local price? Ebay is no help as all the ads are from US suppliers and the cheapest Aussie price I have found is $42 in Queensland.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Thu May 05, 2016 10:00 am 
 View user's profile Send private message
Glen
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


 Reply with quote  

40-60 is about right. I got my 20oz ones from a paintball place near richmond and the 12oz came from the qld place you probably refer, though last time i spoke they said they weren't getting more CO2 gear in as most paintballs are using HPA now.

http://www.paintballaustralia.com.au/Co2.htm
https://www.propaintballshop.com.au/airsystems/ozito-20oz-co2-tank.html
_________________
www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

Post Thu May 05, 2016 12:06 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Nick
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


 Reply with quote  

Thanks; Pro Paintball is the place I was looking at. I might still be able to get the original tanks (cost is only $21 AUD) if they can be shipped with the valves removed. I figure is the tanks are open, they can't possibly be classified as dangerous. If not, I will dash out to Richmond on the weekend.
_________________
Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Post Thu May 05, 2016 12:12 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message
Daniel
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


 Reply with quote  

I got paintball tanks from USA without any problem. Ended up costing the same as buying them locally.

Post Thu May 05, 2016 7:51 pm 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
  Display posts from previous:      

Forum Jump:
Jump to:  

Post new topic   Reply to topic
Page 169 of 170

Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 168, 169, 170  Next

Forum Rules:
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

 

Last Thread | Next Thread  >
Powered by phpBB: © 2001 phpBB Group
millenniumFalcon Template By Vereor.