doesn't it only control one motor? And glen, did you mean that the scooter motors are better then drills because the DRILLS use way more power, or are you just trying to confuse us?
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yes thats what im saying scooters stall at 8amps and drills stall at over 40a

dont settle for second rate crap dude, eventually your drills will clag out while the scooters will keep going. go the convinient way if you must but remember that in a few months ^^

btw rs-80 is just an IBC on steriods 80amps and current limiting. not to say there invnicible, jeff blew up the switch mode reg IBC style after m7 IIRC
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

The IBC is a quality speed controller. It should be seriously considered.

I use a pair of Electronize 30A speedos myself. A pair will cost about AU$170. They do not include the many features of the IBC. They do have some features the IBC does not have.

http://www.technobots.co.uk/ I bought mine here.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

@Glen- The Ibc is a suppurb product dont get me wrong but i was just saying that if i was going to spend that money on speed controllers again i would simply spend a little more and get what i consider a far better system. Like come on really, heavyweights use them without problems and jef killed his because of a faulty connection which happens with all controllers.
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

yeah well i would go for the rs80 if i had the cash money bling too, gotta love current limiting.
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www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz

ok so there are many opinions here with selcting an esc or ibc to drive your parts but in all i guess it comes down to how you uses it and what you use it with. As goes for motors to i will agree with glen on scooter motors but i can only use what i can get my hands on to do the job i need to do as i know may people here have seen people with all this realy expensive stuff (like esc or ibc or what ever they have used as well as $600 motors) and seen it get bashed and smashed to worthless nothing ness. so i think for the money you pay be prepared to pay it again and save for next time you need to replace parts just because it's better & more $$$ doesn't mean there is some thing chaeper that can do the same remeber it's not how much you pay or how good the parts are it how you control them kinda like car's you don't think peter brock win's a race just because of his car do you or aus wins the cricket because they use better balls and bats it's just because they are better then the rest at what they do all thought don't think by me saying this i mean get a cardboard box and put some cheap parts in and the drive your way to perfection and then try to fight the bigest best bot in a comp thinking you gona win. only buy what you need practice more then what you think you need
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If you can't fix it then smash it ..... and start all over again

Actually, I think skill is just as much how its built as how its driven. If your bot dies, no matter how good your driving skills are, your out. Likewise if your bot is well built and has had a lot of time and money invested into it, your out if you cant drive it.

BTW, the IBC is an ESC . . .

Your not going to be doing too much controlling at a decent speed without a proportional speed controller anyhow.
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Jeff Ferrara
fb@ffej.net

ffej.net

You could have a talk to Andrew, Totaly Recycled, about his drill trigger controller. I think he said that you can control a robot for $40 plus the parts that come from the drill. You would also need to buy fail safes or use a PCM radio.

I started with servo and microswitch steering. It was very difficult. I would not recommend it.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

Difficult yes, but once you make a good setup, they hardly fail. And although you don't get variable speed, it's certainly cheap and hardy! I can post a pic of mine make out of perspex (never use wood... it sucks BAD!)
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Difficult yes, but once you make a good setup, they hardly fail

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How much did it cost to build yours, dyrodium?

Mine used four micros per motor at a cost of $40 per motor. I already had the servos. I should have bought failsafes which would have taken the cost to above the cost of some speedos.
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So even the rain that falls isn't actually going to fill our dams and our river systems

The main difference between an IBC (or any ESC) and Servo Switches is that the IBC costs a big lump of money outlay in very little time..

Whereas most of the other techniques cost nearly as much money, but in smaller bits over time ($5 here for a switch, $3 there for a bit of polycarb, $10 for a relay (x however many relays), $40 for a failsafe (x however many channels), $30 for a servo motor (which you might already have or might not) and so on, plus a LOT of time fiddling around making parts, tweaking and tuning it to respond right, and fixing it. You also then have to make another one for weapon control. By the time you add up the cost, you might be surprised what your "cheap" servo switches actually cost.

Usually people are less worried about blowing up/damaging a $10 microswitch than a $300 ESC as well..

Also, If you assign any sort of $ value to your time, and also take into account the number of matches you will likely loose (and take expensive damage) because your home-made servo switch let you down or didnt give you enough control, then ESC's are way out in front in terms of cost-effectiveness..

You just have to get over that initial "Oh my god, this bit costs $x00 !" feeling and do some serious saving. It will be worth it.

As far as the RS-80 vs IBC subject goes, I'm first to admit that if you are going to seriously stress the IBC with some big motors, or want to add another layer of protection against screw-ups (yours or the bot getting damaged), then the RS-80 is the way to go.

It is however, a lot more expensive ($500+ ?) than an IBC (by the time you land one if Australia, pay shipping GST, $ conversion etc), and hence is in a totally different market segment.

For the cheapest, all-in-one locally made controller, the IBC does the job just fine, powering many of the winning robots to victory and only the occasional person having trouble with theirs. RS-80's are not un-blow-upable either (ask Mike Philips), they';re just harder to blow up than an IBC in some areas.

Bottom line is, you gets what you pays for.
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Great minds discuss ideas. Average minds discuss events. Small minds discuss people

Ok you put this a hell of a lot better then i could of said

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Actually, I think skill is just as much how its built as how its driven. If your bot dies, no matter how good your driving skills are, your out. Likewise if your bot is well built and has had a lot of time and money invested into it, your out if you cant drive it.

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ok now i have it i can start doing the driveing when the shell is finished that is thought and when i buy some motors (4X) but im getting there slowly i was wondering if the scooter motors metioned by glen would run on 2x sla 12V 7ah alarm batterys like the ones in vincent ( jaycar part no#sb2486)running in para with the ibc. I have finished putting it it a case (hb6011) with a nice fan and fillter to keep the dust and stuff getting in. well any how i don't expect the first one to get of the ground with a roaring start but with what i have learned i hope it will stand a chance
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If you can't fix it then smash it ..... and start all over again

The scooter motors will run off 2x 7amp(24v config) batteries for over an our But 7amps are 2.5-2.6kg EACH. Your best off looking at 2 x 2.3amp(24v config) SLA's as they are only 1.1kg each and will last you easily 1-2 matches
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/