So your saying i need to run my bot with 4 drill packs?

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yes or run your saw at 12v
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Andrew Welch, Team Unconventional Robotics

crap, i dont have the room for 4 packs...

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change the arrangments of the packs? or get some BIG SLAs if youve got the weight. 2x 7ah or 2x 4.2ah ones should do it

ive got the charger
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Or I can lend you one or two 14.4 V, 3.6AH Nicad packs. They only weigh 1.183 Kg and measure 50 x 60 x 170 long. They could power the drills and you can use the drill packs on the saw. I would only need to know what connectors you are using to get them set up ahead of the event.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Really? That would Be SO helpfull!
I havn't orginised any connectors yet, so it'll either be screw terminals or maybe i could just use what ever connector you have on it ATM. If you have any surplus you rarly or never use, i'd be happy to buy one off you.
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we used to run Plan-b off 2 parallell drill packs
14.4v onto the EV-ish things
then a further 7.2 onto the wep

course it owns with 14.4v Nimh or as it stands now 24v 3.6ah nicd w00tage
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Last edited by Valen on Sat May 28, 2005 10:37 pm; edited 1 time in total

Too easy! We will go with screw terminal blocks as these packs are new and I havn't gotten around to crimping any connectors on. I will charge them up the night before and they will probably go 2 or even 3 matches between charges.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

SWEET!
THANKYOU SO MUCH NICK! THis helps me out SOOOOO much.....
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Ok, i've almost finished, just need to add some more amour and the wireing. Also, i bought a 60a car relay (the black ones), and it has 5 tags on it (?!). Could anyone help me with that?
Also, i'm finding those tire strips i have REALLY usefull in protecting the bot, and i reacon i'll be more than ready for this sat lol!
And also, i need help with mounting the blade, i've got the bolts, but whats the easyest way to line up the holes?!
Thanks
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The relay is easy: The coil is connected to the small tabs labelled 85 and 86. you connect them to your control circuit and it doesn't matter which way around they go.

The weapon motor is switched by the large top and bottom tabs labeled 30 and 87. The large tab labelled 87a is not used and I usually cut it off to make it easier to solder onto the other tabs.

Marking out the saw mounting holes is a bit harder. The best way might be to do a CAD drawing and laser print it, then stick it to the blade. Do you have a CAD program available?
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

I have rhino yeah.
do you have a cad you could send me? i havn't worked out how to do scaled drawings on it yet lol .
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You are well ahead of me - I don't even have Rhino yet ! Perhaps Glen or Jake could advise about drawing to scale?

When you are mounting the blade, you need to get the screw holes in the right place AND get the blade centre lined up with the centre of the motor shaft.

You need to end up with something like this: http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=829 except scaled correctly. Make the central circle the same size as the saw's mounting hole so you can align the drawing accurately. It's hard to measure the distance from th centre of the motor shaft to the centre of the M4 mounting hole. Its best to get as accurate as you can, then printthe template and test drill the pattern on thin MDF. once you have adjusted the measurements so the mdf test piece bolts to the motor, you can be sure the saw will mount too.
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UK 2016 Gladiator champion

ok... i never knew it was so complicated!!!
I'll do that tommorow.
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rhino template fo shizzle, with kang i just used a protractor and ruler which worked fairly well but the template is the way to go.

just do a circle the same radius as the "bolt circle" then put a 4mm hole on the line. then go to transform, array, polar i think it is and put in 3 objects, 360 degrees and your away.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz