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Yes.. unfortunatly in RC i'm a newbie. Couple of stupid q's
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Should there be a "how to build a bot of destruction for dummies"
yes
66%
 66%  [ 4 ]
no
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
whats a bot?
33%
 33%  [ 2 ]
Total Votes : 6

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Big AL
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Oct 2004
Posts: 436
Location: roleystone perth. WA


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i've got a couple of mecanical speed controllers @ 7.2 v and they are handling it ok the one with tape on it smokes a bit as the tape melts (which looks really cool Twisted Evil ).

think about getting a couple of 12 v controllers as they would be cheaper for a beginner.

As for that helping with the gyro it will help because it will now be able to tell the servos to increase/decrease speed on one engine depending on which type it is.

OR you can stuff thinking and buy an ibc and plug the gyro straight in Very Happy
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best quote ever:: "Those Gas-Turbine style warehouse heaters arent illegal, and neither is remote controlling one as far as I know."

Post Wed May 11, 2005 9:10 pm 
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the moth
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 21 Dec 2004
Posts: 130
Location: Melbourne


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Our last vic event demonstrated that a hard turning relay driven bot caused the proportional controlled bots to use constant full stick to ovoid it .

Proportional control can be easier on your motors as it "soft starts" them where a relay bangs in full power although this hasent proved to be a problem to us using battery drill motors . The reality is everyone will advise you based on what they are doing and if they think it works for them . You need to decide on a budget and what your bot is really going to do . Will you need to drive it slowly in a fight ? (and will your opponent allow you to?) . The relay controller is very cheap to make , but if your going to overvolt you will likely weld relays . My bot runs on 12v using the relay controller and 15 year old s/h car relays (honestly) , I havent welded a relay yet and it is treated hard . The relay controller has three channels ( 2 for drive and 1 for weapon ) . I have finished the second (beta) version software with a "floating" failsafe which may make it less suceptable to radio problems and started testing it . I have started working on the third and last generation of the software with a "invert input" using a fourth channel which will reverse the controls . Later a companion version of software will allow you to use a second PRC to access up to 7 channels . The experimental version of the second generation micro (you have to wire it on breadboard) will be available soon . Some people are testing variations now .
The PRC developemt thred is here
http://robowars.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479
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Post Thu May 12, 2005 12:49 am 
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Spockie-Tech
Site Admin


Joined: 31 May 2004
Posts: 3160
Location: Melbourne, Australia


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Hey Rick..

Could kindly you push <enter> a couple of times every now and then when typing out a big block of message ?

It makes it kind of hard to read a solid long single paragraph of text with no spacing in it..

Thanks
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Post Thu May 12, 2005 12:58 am 
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the moth
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 21 Dec 2004
Posts: 130
Location: Melbourne


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no
one
reads
what
i
write
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Post Thu May 12, 2005 1:06 am 
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digitalebola



Joined: 09 May 2005
Posts: 15
Location: Warragul


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Howdy Rick,

We have met before.. (im friends with Liam and Allan)

Do you have MSN or something at all ?

Post Thu May 12, 2005 7:51 am 
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digitalebola



Joined: 09 May 2005
Posts: 15
Location: Warragul


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Liam's the one who convinced me to give the relay board a try Wink

He has probably told you he has an order for one ?? Wink that would be mine..

The reason i was asking about speed controllers is because im building a drum
bot, and may need to edge into position.. im just wondering if i tap the controls
will it let me manouver? so i can come in with the big drum on a certain angle
to do the most damage rather than flat stick in their general direction

I will give the relay a go, and if i dont like i'll get the $300 board and use the
relay one in a drone bot for testing Smile

Post Thu May 12, 2005 7:59 am 
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digitalebola



Joined: 09 May 2005
Posts: 15
Location: Warragul


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Also you mentionted to me that you had alot of bot movies on your website?

But they would be near impossible to find if i didnt know where to look?

........... where do i look Very Happy


Thanks

Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:04 am 
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the moth
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 21 Dec 2004
Posts: 130
Location: Melbourne


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Hi : The PRC is worth trying as a start-point and is easy to build provided you can do some reasonably simple soldering . Obviously the software is still being fine-tuned , and so you will occasionally need to update it as you go . The PRC page tells you were to get the micros as they are the only part that needs to be ordered ( approx $12-$14 ) , The only other chips present at this point are a 5v voltage reg and a uln2003d driver chip.

As for relays vrs proportional control - I reccomend you learn to drive your bot hard at full power no matter what your final control system is . The compertition becomes harder and faster at every event and you will not be able to assume your opponent will be sitting still .

Video files available on my site can be found at
http://www.allsuburbs.com/robots/video/rbw_video.html
other video files are around in presently random locations , but they are all being collected into the one location .
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Post Thu May 12, 2005 8:21 am 
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digitalebola



Joined: 09 May 2005
Posts: 15
Location: Warragul


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I am just wondering what kind of battery power i would require to run 2x24v scooter motors + 1 x 12v motor for the drum? I'd be interested to see what reboot uses and other high powered bots

Post Thu May 19, 2005 5:49 pm 
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Rotwang
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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Reboot runs on our jiffy box packs made from ozito drill packs purchased cheap from the Sunday market.
Probably warranty returns rescued from someone’s dump master.
They are labelled as 1.7 amps. Actual capacity varies a bit but they are a worth while bit better than the xu1 kk2 type.
We have had a couple of failures; Reboots fight with Pincher was one of them, the pack dropped to about 0.2 amps. Sad

Chargers being expensive we figured it was cheaper to have lots of cheap batteries to get through an event than more chargers and fewer but better quality and more expensive batteries.
The down side of this is that I spend the week before an event charging and testing batteries.

Reboot is very low current draw, the scooter motors are really easy on batteries and I really can’t understand why people won’t to put more power into a drum.
A saw yes, imagine if Scoopy’s saw didn’t stall. Twisted Evil

Brett runs a lot more battery power in IG and a 300 watt motor compared to Reboots 100 watt because he didn’t won’t the saw slowing down like the mark one version.
The drum on the other hand has time to spin up then a hit that uses the stored kinetic energy.
Minimower with its pre pollycarb arenas slow 500rpm drum got under its opponent and kept punching away, low speed high torque.
Spinning a drum too fast can work against you as previously discussed bite and handling wise.

Post Thu May 19, 2005 8:11 pm 
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digitalebola



Joined: 09 May 2005
Posts: 15
Location: Warragul


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Ah cool Smile that makes a bit more sense now.. I have 2 x 24v 100w scooter motors (finally arrived today!) and need to decide on the best motor for the drum.. would it be easier to power the drum with a chain or belt rather than kinetic energy?

I just want something high powered as im using 100% allow construction to allow more weight in the weapons..

With the drum, did you use a thick solid tube or hollow pipe? And how did you get it mounted correctly? ie to the chassis

Post Thu May 19, 2005 8:53 pm 
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dyrodium
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney


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I think you mean frictiondrive, not Kinetic energy (although i may think wrong lol!)...
Friction drive would be by far the easiest, with alll you needing is a clear path on the drum for a wheel on the motor to touch. If done well i can't see why there's any point using belts...
Also, you shouldn't use chains with a KE weapon, as generaly you want slippage, otherwise you'd damage your motor and other parts. Smile
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Post Thu May 19, 2005 9:00 pm 
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Rotwang
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 1589
Location: Vic


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Both Reboot and Minimower use friction drive for the drums and we are really happy with the technic, never had a failure with the system.Smile


It even kept the drum spinning when one of the bag trolley wheels finally broke in the IG Reboot fight.
We use pipe for the drum with plastic wheels, this gives us the maximum energy for the weight of the drum when it hits with minimum kick back through our own bot.
The drum axel doesn’t spin; the bearings are between the axel and the drum.

Oh in case anyone really cares I know I should of written 1700mAh in my previous post but that looks to me like something someone with a degree in marketing would say.

Post Fri May 20, 2005 5:48 pm 
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Glen
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect


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have you ever tested those 1.7amp packs for how much current they can give?

i have a pair of 1.3 amp drill packs wayde gave me from his ozito drills and just running a thermo fan motor off them there is definitely a difference between them and the standard 1.2amp xu1 packs.

gotta love the drill packs, cant beat them for the price Very Happy
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Post Fri May 20, 2005 9:05 pm 
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original_carnage
Experienced Roboteer


Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Posts: 326
Location: Toowoomba(ish), travel to Brisbane


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BTW there IS a book "Combat robots for dummies".
Other books (available through Angus & Robertson in Aust... online) that I've found good are "Kickin' Bot" by Grant Imahara and "Combat Robots Complete" by Chris Hannold.

There is also "Combat Robot Weapons" also by Chris Hannold, still waiting for it to turn up in the mail..
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Post Sat May 21, 2005 5:58 pm 
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