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ZaneStriker
Joined: 24 Oct 2005
Posts: 5
Location: Newcastle
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What makes 'X' special-
'X' is nothing special, really. He's made of wood and metal. Has a couple of windscreen wiper moters and a dry-cell car battery...so far. But he has one advantage over his competition, though I don't really expect him to win many matches.
With the use of just a single cordless drill, 'X' can have is armour and weapons completly removed and replace in a matter of minutes. Theoritically....
He is basically a box with a sloping nose so as to get under the oppent. With his armour on, he is little more then a romote controlled ram. But then you add his "parts". My only complete set so far is the 'Lancer-X'. Although I can explain it, you really need to see it to understand, so I hope to get a pic up soon, so please bear with me.
The 'Lancer-X' is a set of two metal plates that act as armour, but they each have a metal box welded to them...a metal box with a rather large and sharp piece of metal sticking forward, much like a lance.
So baisically pictuce a box, with wheels, covered in metal and two lances positioned forward. These Lances will be used ofcourse to run your 'bots through. Muahahaha!
Btw, each set or attachment will be called something kinda kool, lol, like the 'Lancer-X' or the 'Jagear-X' (almost complete) _________________ My goal- a fully custimoizable 'bot to kick all your asses!
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Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:36 am |
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Knightrous
Site Admin
Joined: 15 Jun 2004
Posts: 8511
Location: NSW
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Experienced Roboteers Advice:
Drop the wiper motors, they are heavy and slow. Go for a set of 12v XU1 cordless drills picked up at Bunnings hardware for $18 (Comes with a 550 sized motor, 36:1 double stag planetary gearbox and a 12v 1200mAh NiCD battery pack with charger!). You can get a set of matching 95mm red wheels that literlly bolt straight on to the XU1 drills for $3.89 each. With this setup on 12v, you'll get a top speed of around 12km/h which is a lot better then a wiper motor on 24v with a 250mm wheel at 4km/h.
If your going to use wood, a double laminate idea will help it surive. Some 8mm MDF with a layer of 3mm Polycarb or aluminium on either side that is bonded to it with some glue will make a fairly strong panel.
Have a look at the rest of build threads, and look at what everyone else is using. Ideas you have, other people might have tested and may be able to provide you some useful information on why/why not to use that idea. For your armour, bulk up if your competiting NSW, Jolt is a nasty spinner and likes to buckle and bend 6mm aluminium for breakfast, or 10mm 5083 aluminium for dinner....
Remember, if your needing any advice, you can contact any of the 'Experinced Roboteers' via PM (Private Message) or use the search function to find previous threads/posts which might have information. _________________ https://www.halfdonethings.com/
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Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:54 am |
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Glen
Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
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howdy there,
sounds like a good project to be starting off on, if you want any advice about building a robot for a project add andrew welch to your msn and have a chat to him, he build a heavyweight (just) for his project so he could share some insight.
going with what aaron said wiper motors are definitely more trouble than there worth. you have to make an adaptor for the odd ball shaft, they are slow and really unreliable on account of the plastic gears within. and you have to internally mod the wiring i believe.
drills are a good start as there easy to put in, but also the 100w scooter setups are a great alternative from oatley, you can buy the entire drive pod and just bolt them in and youve got a really damn fast and robust solution. the drills are very borderline on reliability so id prolly reccomend these any day.
http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/motors.html#SC450
ah yes and dry cell car battery, totally useless for a robot, dont even think of using one, if you tip the thing over youll be spilling battery acid all over the place, they are 60ah which is WAY to massive (a good 2ah is needed for most) and they usually cant be deep discharged anyway. normal SLAs or drill nicads would be the go.
sounds cool, best advice i could propose though is to just set aside a weekend and travel down to an event and see them go in person and see what parts are used what not....
best of luck, keep us updated _________________ www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz
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Tue Oct 25, 2005 5:27 pm |
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