My brother is telling me to use a Sabertooth 2X25 instead of a Scorpion XXL because it is 25A cont and 50A peak rather then the scorpion's 20A and 40A, both have BEC's, Thermal and overcurrent protection, but the Sabertooth is only US$125 compared to the Scorpions US$160

Sabertooth 2X25
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SABER2X25-RC.html
Scorpion XXL
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RP-SCORPXXL.html

I never really looked at the Sabertooth before, but it definitely looks like a better deal on paper. I can't tell what FETs it uses from any of the photos; they might be an array of small ones like brushless controllers use.
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It is also available at http://www.robotparts.com.au/

It has been segested a few times on the FRA forum when people ask about speed controllers from memory over the last few months. might be worth poking around the forum to see if they have much useful feedback.

bytraper posted in his build thread on this forum that he has the first prototype Sabertooth dual 25A combat speed controller so may be worth a chat to him before investing in one

If the heatsink on the Sabertooth is connected to the metal sink plate on the fet and not just clamped on to the plastic body, I'd definately have a serious look at the Sabertooth...
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Anybody have any details on the power chips used?
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quote:

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Originally posted by seanet1310:
It is also available at http://www.robotparts.com.au/

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Hey Daniel, do you reckon you can make a CAD of that Sabertooth? Interested in it for a few back burner designs, and a CAD certainly helps plan for those
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Sure, after I draw the 1 ton idler wheel for work.

We run the Scorpion XXL "Iiyama" version in both Hannibalito's, driving speed 900 motors, and yet have to suffer any damage to those.
Also, if it comes to pure power, we never failed.

Combined with the experience with the Sidewinders Team RCC has (atm we have 6 of these beauties in our hands) we are dedicated to Chris Barron's expertice.

Too late. I have had a sabertooth sitting on my desk for a week and tomorrow I'll plug some wires into it. I can't say what type of fets are in it because the back side is covered with an alimunium plate.

I have installed and used the Sabertooth. At 24V with the cordless drills the over current protection kicks in when I slam the sticks at full throttle, but that is much better the things going pop and I can easily fix it by setting the radio to only 50% which makes the little guy easier to drive too. There is also a lot more room in the robot now.
I haven't spun the weapon while driving as my servo leads are too short for the receiver to be in a good spot and I'd really need something to stop the wires from getting sucked into the weapon hub. But I doubt this thing will ever drive an spin during combat.

How do you intend to cover your speed controller?
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A 5mm thick steel disc at the moment. For Avenger I might mount it in the box it came in but this robot has no room so I have no idea.

could always try coating the exposed circuit board with silicone sealant.
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wrap it in a few layers of glad-wrap - seriously, its conformal, removable and keeps crud out of the pcb.

Another rough lightweight/small custom case technique is to buy the thin (1mm ?) Polycarb sheets from Bunnings.

You heavily cut/score edge lines with a stanley knife, then flex it back and forward along the line a few times to snap out the box walls, then hot-glue them together into your desired case size to fit your circuit board.

See through, very lightweight, tough, easy to melt/drill holes in and can be made to accurately fit any shape or size.

a bit ghetto looking (the gladwrap would probably look worse), but it works
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