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colin



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 102


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quote:
Originally posted by Spockie-Tech:
The Chinese are masters of "value engineering" -


The Deacons Masterpiece
a poem by Oliver Wendell Holmes


Have you heard of the wonderful one-hoss shay, 
That was built in such a logical way 
It ran a hundred years to a day, 
And then, of a sudden, it - ah, but stay, 
And I'll tell you what happened without delay, 
Scaring the parson into fits, 
Frightening people out of their wits, 
Have you ever heard of that, I say?

Seventeen hundred and fifty-five, 
Georgius Secundus was then alive,

Snuffy old drone from the German hive. 
That was the year when Lisbon-town 
Saw the earth open and gulp her down, 
And Braddock's army was done so brown, 
Left without a scalp to its crown. 
It was on the terrible Earthquake-day 
That the Deacon finished the one-hoss shay.

Now in building of chaises, I tell you what, 
There is always somewhere a weaker spot,
In hub, tire, felloe, in spring or thill, 
In panel, or crossbar, or floor, or sill, 
In screw, bolt, thoroughbrace, - lurking still, 
Find it somewhere you must and will,
Above or below, or within or without, 

And that's the reason, beyond a doubt, 
A chaise breaks down, but doesn't wear out. 

But the Deacon swore (as Deacons do), 
With an "I dew vum," or an "I tell yeou," 
He would build one shay to beat the taown 
'N' the keounty 'n' all the kentry raoun'; 
It should be so built that it couldn' break daown: 
"Fur," said the Deacon, "'t 's mighty plain 
Thut the weakes' place mus' stan' the strain; 
'N' the way t' fix it, uz I maintain, 
Is only jest 
T' make that place uz strong uz the rest."

So the Deacon inquired of the village folk 
Where he could find the strongest oak, 
That couldn't be split nor bent nor broke,
That was for spokes and floor and sills; 
He sent for lancewood to make the thills; 
The crossbars were ash, from the strightest trees, 
The panels of white-wood, that cuts like cheese, 
But lasts like iron for things like these; 
The hubs of logs from the "Settler's ellum,"
Last of its timber,--they couldn't sell 'em, 
Never an axe had seen their chips, 
And the wedges flew from between their lips, 
Their blunt ends frizzled like celery tips; 
Step and prop-iron, bolt and screw, 
Spring, tire, axle, and linchpin too, 
Steel of the finest, bright and blue; 
Thoroughbrace bison-skin, thick and wide; 
Boot, top, dasher, from tough old hide 
Found in the pit when the tanner died. 
That was the way he "put her through." 
"There!" said the Deacon, "naow she'll dew!"

Do! I tell you, I rather guess 
She was a wonder, and nothing less! 
Colts grew horses, beards turned gray, 
Deacon and Deaconess dropped away, 
Children and grandchildren - where were they? 
But there stood the stout old-one-hoss shay 
As fresh as on Lisbon-earthquake-day!

Eighteen Hundred; it came and found 
The Deacon's masterpiece strong and sound. 
Eighteen hundred increased by ten;-- 
"Hahnsum kerridge" they called it then. 
Eighteen hundred and twenty came;-- 
Running as usual; much the same. 
Thirty and forty at last arrive, 
And then came fifty, and Fifty-five

Little of all we value here 
Wakes on the morn of its hundredth year 
Without both feeling and looking queer. 
In fact, there's nothing that keeps its youth, 
So far as I know, but a tree and truth. 
(This as a moral that runs at large; 
Take it, - You're welcome. - No extra charge.)

First of November - the-Earthquake-day, 
There are traces of age in the one-hoss-shay, 
A general flavor of mild decay, 
But nothing local, as one may say. 
There couldn't be, - for the Deacon's art 
Had made it so like in every part 
That there wasn't a chance for one to start. 
For the wheels were just as strong as the thills, 
And the floor was just as strong as the sills, 
And the panels just as strong as the floor, 
And the whipple-tree neither less nor more, 
And spring and axle and hub encore, 
And yet, as a whole, it is past a doubt 
In another hour it will be worn out! 

First of November, 'Fifty-five! 
This morning the parson takes a drive. 
Now, small boys, get out of the way! 
Here comes the wonderful one-hoss shay, 
Drawn by a rat-tailed, ewe-necked bay. 
"Huddup!" said the parson. Off went they. 
The parson was working his Sunday text, 
Had got to fifthly, and stopped perplexed 
At what the - Moses - was coming next. 
All at once the horse stood still, 
Close by the meet'n'-house on the hill. 
First a shiver, and then a thrill, 
Then something decidedly like a spill, 
And the parson was sitting up on a rock, 
At half-past nine by the meet'n'-house clock, 
Just the hour of the Earthquake shock! 
What do you think the parson found, 
When he got up and stared around? 
The poor old chaise in a heap or mound, 
As if it had been to the mill and ground! 
You see, of course, if you're not a dunce, 
How it went to pieces all at once, 
All at once, and nothing first, 
Just as bubbles do when they burst.

End of the wonderful one-hoss shay, 
Logic is logic. That's all I say.
------


OK, so you didn't really need to read all that,
But bait your breath, and don't say drat,
A valuable lesson you can learn today,
Build it well, that is to say;

Don't over-engineer,
It won't help to re-gear.

P.S. The poem was written in 1858, so chinese might be the masters but the concept is nothing new.

Post Sat Jun 19, 2004 10:08 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
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Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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How should I pull apart my motors?

My drill motors are very hard to turn. I think that they are clogged up with crap. They have 8 tiny crimped over metal parts on the end that are too small to get at with a screw driver or pliers. I am thinking of using the gentle and loving angle grinder on them. Thoughts?

Post Sun Jun 20, 2004 5:57 am 
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Knightrous
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Give them a gentle bath in kerosine for a week and most of the crap should come out. There should only be two tabs on the back of an RS motor which allows you to remove the bell housing and if you have the pinion removed, you'll be able to pull the armature and magnets out.
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Post Sun Jun 20, 2004 9:49 am 
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Glen
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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hey aaron i did try replacing the gears in the gearbox. the worked pretty well but it doesnt really make a difference seeing as though 90% of drill failures are from the pins.

nick ran all steel gearboxes at marayong 4 in minotuar and he ended up breaking 3 gearboxes IIRC all the pins.

phil - my advice is to just buy two more drills. as aaron said soak them in kerosene and turn the shaft a couple of times, the little fan will force the stuff in and out of the motor giving it a good wash. i wouldnt advice taking the tabs off, even when you get the motor open you cant get the armature out (on account of the pinion still being attached) and most of the stuff is attached quite firmly to the magnets and armature.

i would say - buy two more drills, have them mounted with a plate over the front of the gearbox so no more crud can get into them through the holes, and put stockings over your motors to stop other crud getting into the motors themselves.


LOL @ kero, i have to listen to that sort of thing from my sister all the time, when the clothes her company orders comes back all dimented and with seeds and things riddled through them,

i also have had a run in with one particular chinese company, i now have them way up on my hitlist Laughing

Post Sun Jun 20, 2004 10:02 am 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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I have the motor apart. The next step is to pull the cog off the front so that I can pull the armature out. There is metal as well as dirt in the motor. I will have to set up a filter after I clean it.

Post Sun Jun 20, 2004 7:44 pm 
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Glen
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for the cog a little butane gas torch and two flat head screwdrivers will do the trick.

Post Sun Jun 20, 2004 7:53 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW


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I re-worked all my drill motors over the weekend and did some proper testing on them with very interesting results:

Taking a totally new XU1 motor, I ran it and measured the current using a reasonably accurate clamp meter. After a 5 minute run-in it drew 2.5A.

I then totally dissasembled the gearbox and cleaned every trace of grease out, then reassembled with all metal gears. With no lube at all, the gearbox was much easier to turn by hand and even had a little 'run on'. Running it again for 5 minutes gave a current of 2.7A. That wasn't what I expected, given that the gears turned more easily by hand. The moter was WAY noisier too. This could have been due to the new metal gears spinning at high speed in the first stage.

I then pulled everything apart again and applied a generous coat of white lithium grease to everything (but far less grease than it came with). Running this for 5 minutes gave a current reading of only 1.9A Cool and the noise was down but still greater than with the original grease packing.

Conclusions:

1) The grease that comes witht the motor is not all bad but is probably mainly for noise reduction.

2) Reducing the lubrication is definitely a bad idea; more noise, current and heat.

3) Lithium grease is a huge improvement on the chinese stuff! I saved over 500mA of current drain, which equals a longer run time, less motor heat and cooler FETs too Very Happy It doesn't get runny when hot like the original stuff does, either.

More thoughts:

Glen is right about my motor experiences with broken pins, except that they were all in the second stages. That means that I moved the weakest link from the plastic gears to the pins. This means that the gearboxes should have transmitted more energy before they broke, the trick is to have a wheel that spins before the pins snap... I have been getting better results with 3" wheels.

I found the 'secret' to reassembling a gearbox properly! Its next to impossible to explain in writing, but I will be happy to show anyone who is interested at the next event.
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:10 am 
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Nexus
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
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Hey Nick, You didnt mentioned if you had to do a mod to fit the all metal gears in, Was under inpression that the metal gears are taller than the plastic and needed some sort of spacer, Can you confirm this
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:28 am 
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colin



Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 102


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quote:
Originally posted by Nick:
I then pulled everything apart again and applied a generous coat of white lithium grease to everything (but far less grease than it came with). Running this for 5 minutes gave a current reading of only 1.9A Cool and the noise was down but still greater than with the original grease packing.



Its nice to see some testing done on those motors Smile did you do the test with no load? if so do those result tell you much about the savings/improvments when they are run in your bot?

Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:34 am 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Yes, I tested with no load so the results should be reproducable by everyone.

What a lower current draw and lower heat means is that the motor is not wasting energy just pushing the gears around and has more output power to push your bot around the arena.

When the motors are in a bot and under load, I would expect that top speed would be a little higher, run time should be longer, and all your drive train parts (battery, controller, motor, etc) should be a little cooler. The difference might not be much, but even 10 seconds of full power could turn a loss into a win.

To get the metal gears to fit, I ground off the raised section on one side of the gear. I finished it off with a fine file to smooth out the grind marks and remove the burrs between the teeth. A 'Vise-grip' locking wrench is perfect for holding the gear - the teeth on the Vise-grip jaws mesh with the gear teeth.

When replacing the new gears in the gearbox, put them in with the flat side down, away from the motor. That way you getthe most mesh with the motor pinnion.
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 11:20 am 
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Ajax
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Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 298
Location: Sydney


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quote:
Originally posted by Nick:
Yes, I tested with no load so the results should be reproducable by everyone.

What a lower current draw and lower heat means is that the motor is not wasting energy just pushing the gears around and has more output power to push your bot around the arena.

When the motors are in a bot and under load, I would expect that top speed would be a little higher, run time should be longer, and all your drive train parts (battery, controller, motor, etc) should be a little cooler. The difference might not be much, but even 10 seconds of full power could turn a loss into a win.

To get the metal gears to fit, I ground off the raised section on one side of the gear. I finished it off with a fine file to smooth out the grind marks and remove the burrs between the teeth. A 'Vise-grip' locking wrench is perfect for holding the gear - the teeth on the Vise-grip jaws mesh with the gear teeth.

When replacing the new gears in the gearbox, put them in with the flat side down, away from the motor. That way you getthe most mesh with the motor pinnion.


The Metal gears will increase the noise output of the motor no mater what type of grease is used. A heavier grease will help reduce the noise, but noise is not a problem realy. (noise as in sound level not RF)

Nick did you also clean all the ball bearings & shaft under the circlip the re apply grease there as well. this will give a very slight improvment, not noticeable though.

Everyone needs to remember that when cleaning there motors. Be carefull though one false move and you have little balls every where.
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 3:28 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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I didn't dare take out the circlip! I flushed everything out with kero and blasted the bearing area with compressed air - nothing much came out. I use a spray lithium grease that solidifies quite quickly , its hard to say how much really got down into the bearings. The over-all effect was good so I'm happy.

Its probably not worth the effort, but it would be extremely cool if someone figured out how to replace the sloppy output bearings with a "real" ball bearing. that would reduce friction even more and let the motors withstand more impact shock - just dreaming...
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 3:49 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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One of the guys on the US forums (Chris Baron - the OSMC/Robot-Power Guy) was getting prices on getting a batch of nice little drill-style replacement gearboxes manufactured in china (where else ?), that would address most of the failures people were having with what americans call "Harbour Freight" (being their equivalent of bunnings here) Drills.

Problem was that the price of the gearboxes was going to be something like $40US each and that was only if he bought a *lot* of them up front.. I dont know if the project went any further or not.

I was looking at the dewalt gearboxes on RobotCombat, they seem to be fairly reliable, but they need that silly output shaft coupling and bearing pillow blocks to mount your wheels on, so you end up with a fairly expensive and heavy solution.

The search for the perfect cheap easy indestructible drive goes on.. Smile

Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 4:04 pm 
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Nick
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I priced the Dewalt kit locally, at RCM and at Team Delta. Its possible to save a little money by buying the gearbox locally and the rest from Dan @ Team Delta - that front mount he makes is the hot ticket. That just leaves the stupid coupling Sad . I also see on the forums that the US guys split the gearboxes fairly often.

A really enterprising person could salvage the XU1 gears and rebuild the housing from a block of UHMW. If the outer ring gear was a press fit and the walls were a bit thicker it would be far stronger. The next upgrade would be to remanafacture the output shaft and use proper sealed bearings and stronger pins. That would be a ton of work, but you would have a great gearbox with plenty of cheap spares.
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Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 4:33 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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I think jake tried that on one his early Bot's

I'm not quite sure what failed, but the word is it went about 5 feet before breaking something.. perhaps with a bit more R&D something could be done.

That 3-pin output carrier seems to be the next weakest link. I wonder if you could use a replace the pins with small button-head bolts tapped through from the other side of the carrier plate ?

we might be flogging a dead horse here, since I'm sure something else will then break, but its fun to play the hot-up game..

Post Mon Jun 21, 2004 4:46 pm 
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