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Rotwang
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quote:
Originally posted by Spockie-Tech:




The biggest thing I wish Id done with the IBC is design it to fit in a commonly available enclosure. Those gray cases that Gary found *almost fit were good, but a little annoying to have to massage the board and case to get them in. I wonder if Charles has an enclosure he's based his design around.


3D printed 2 versions with or without fan provision print your own or buy pre
made

.http://e0designs.com/products/rage-in-a-box/
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2016 9:01 am 
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marto
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I have a couple of rages for sale if you would like one.
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:05 pm 
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Rotwang
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Thanks but too late I have already ordered one, been reading up on them lately.

Not sure what to put it in at this stage, just sorting out the wreckage from last year, we haven't settled on a team for Canberra yet
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Post Fri Jun 17, 2016 11:34 am 
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Rotwang
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Got the RageBridge working. One thing
I found out the hard way; Dont use a removable link, the massive caps on 6 cells makes a huge arc, welds things together and gives one the I just blew $300 feeling.
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Post Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:41 pm 
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Glen
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In the UK i noticed some teams use two links, one has a resistor soldered across it to precharge the caps and the 2nd is the main current one Smile
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Post Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:51 pm 
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Rotwang
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I noticed Charles has a pre charge on Overhaul.

The Poms do love their removable links, just dont mix them up or put them in in the wrong order.

I think I will just pack a few spare switches, worst case they will weld on and I can disconnect the battery.
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Post Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:01 pm 
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Glen
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quote:
Originally posted by Rotwang:
just dont mix them up or put them in in the wrong order.



They're both in parallel and both stay in from what i saw. Switches work tho!
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:30 am 
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Nick
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I want to try those spark suppressing XT90 connectors, except the yare always out of stock! Mad
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:33 am 
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Rotwang
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Probably put the resistor in first and to power down take the resistor out last.

Just another thing I could get wrong on the day.

I am not hating on links, just trying to idiot proof things.

At least I dont have to push buttons on Dapters in these enlightened times.
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:38 am 
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Valen
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when we did switches we put 3 switches in to carry the current, on the first one we put a resistor. Stopped the others from welding.

You could even have just a push button micro switch, press it for pre-charge.
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 9:44 am 
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Rotwang
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Momentary push button seems most user friendly, could work with switch or link.
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:14 pm 
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Valen
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switches welding is crappy, I don't miss that about plan-B lol
The screw switches used these days are pretty good, we made one out of a nut and some PCB.

Limiting the inrush current on those newer caps is going to be even more important I reckon, I wonder if you could be at the level of damaging the cap with the good batteries and everything.
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:19 pm 
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Rotwang
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I set everything up with a 3 cell lipo, got a spark,nothing serious but when I tried 6 cells it arced and welded.
Wouldn't try it on 36volt~.

I remember somewhere on Charles's site info on potential damage to various components, he even welded one of those big Hella isolation switches.
Have to re read.

Not with a Rage, That was his modified Hobbyking brushless controlers, he puts big caps on them.
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:50 pm 
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Spockie-Tech
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quote:
Originally posted by Nick:
I want to try those spark suppressing XT90 connectors, except they are always out of stock! Mad


That's probably my fault. I bought a bunch (well, 10) of them for the 44v E-Trikes I built a month or so ago.

They work very well. without them, the big caps in the 1200watt BLDC controllers really go pow on startup, using them as a removable link, nothing.

They have a dual contact on one side with a 5ohm (I think) resistor on the first one to make.

Only thing to watch is to have the plug+socket connected when you do the big wire soldering to the connectors, since the heat softens the plastic and the pins can go a bit out of line. If they are supported by being engaged with the opposite connector, then they're fine.

recommended. (When you can get them) Smile
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Post Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:31 pm 
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Rotwang
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Thought it might be a good idea to report on our Ragebridg's,Minimower and Bender3 were both using them.

Both using the 14.4 volt GMC right angle drills on 6 &5 cell lipo.

First of if I had read the instructions more carefully Charles recommends a charging resistor, No problems with the switches, had 4 spares just in case.

ESC's totally reliable, the possible issue that concerns me is steering control.

Probably fine for 4+ wheels but very hard to line up our 2 wheel bots.
No time for any experimenting for a while but I suspect they coast rather than brake when centered.

Will play with TX settings some more.

In a couple of weeks I will give them a real work out in our big 4 and 6 wheel bots; partly why I bought them.
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Post Thu Sep 01, 2016 1:19 pm 
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