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Daniel's Robots - Hellfire Labs - Qld
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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I checked over Prowler and Berserker before putting them back on the shelf for a while and wrote down a list of everything that went wrong, to make it easier to fix.

Prowler
- One drive motor burnt out. See above.
- The weapon motor screws didn't locate correctly. I'll replace them with countersunk screws to help that.
- The pins on each end on the actuator have bent so much that I'll gave to cut them in half to remove them. They were Bunnings bolts. I'll replace them with grade 8.8 bolts and see how that goes.
- The drive train grub screws wound back, causing drive issues. I'll have to buy better Loctite. Also thinking of replacing the grub screws with hex bolts for ease of tighting and repair.
- The last stage axles required a spacer and I used some nylon tube. This wasn't strong enough and one wheel slipped sideways and threw a bearing. So next time I'll get some PVC pipe or something.
- When the axle shifted the grub screw missed the flat ground into the shaft. So I'll regrind those flats to be 20mm longer.
- The wheel guards and rear plate got slightly bent, but no where near enough to be a problem.
- Needs new saw blades, but really only lost one tooth in 3 fights and a rumble.
- The battery received no damage, but I'd prefer a new mount.
- A speed controller for the arm actuator. The servo switches worked perfectly, but I can see it failing in the future.

Berserker
- The wheel nuts came loose, again. I just need to buy some nyloc nuts.
- The hard handle sword snapped. I'll straighten and reinforce the soft handle sword.
- The weapon motor screws. Same as Prowler.
- New saw blades. It destroyed a saw blade in every fight. Rolling Eyes
- The weapon mounting screws also need nylocs. The thwack attacks shook the screws out in every fight and I was lucky to only lose it once.
- The weapon power wires really need a direct hole into the chassis rather than coming through the lid.
- New wheels. Slinky punctured one in the first fight and Hydra got the other in the second. Doesn't stop it from driving, so not a big problem.
- It lost drive in the final because the wheel hub gear broke loose on one side. I didn't add Loctite to the grub screws, so easy fix.
- The other side lost drive when the motor pinion came off. Again needs proper loctite.

So the shopping list includes one motor, 12mm ID tube, a good tube of loctite, a heap of higher quality, non Bunnings nuts and bolts and a few packets of cheap saw blades.

Post Sun Oct 18, 2015 11:05 am 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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Well for those who don't know, I am now a teacher. Tech Studies, Graphics and Furnishing. Although now I have to put up with a room full of 15 year boys and sharp tools Shocked , I do get a few workshops to play in during my free time. Such as:

One of my 5 workshops. Cool

And now I've started to panic less and figure out what I'm doing I have decided to build a beetle weight as a bit of a demonstration to the STEM teachers and higher ups that we could do more than just science and maths.

Or I can just have a fancy toy for my desk.

Anyway, I have brought it home to wire it up and give it a test, but it seems to have a problem with the receiver crashing and losing control after 1 minute of driving. I have a feeling it is because I haven't cut the power line on one of the speedos and these Orange receivers don't really like too much power. I might cut both drive speedo positive lines and power the receiver from the weapon speedo, which hasn't been installed yet.

Post Mon Apr 04, 2016 6:02 pm 
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marto
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
Posts: 5459
Location: Brisbane, QLD


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Got video of symptoms and rest of specs? The L7805 small regulator on the RX could be crapping out from heat if you're giving it 2S.
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Post Mon Apr 04, 2016 6:45 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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3-cell battery. The speedos are from my ants. The receiver is also from my ants. That's why I'm thinking I shouldn't be using the drive speedos to power the receiver as I know the combination worked on 2-cells and is now failing on 3-cell. The brushless controller I will use for the hammer has previously worked on 3-cell and powered the receiver, so I should just let it do all the work.
So if I want kids to make one I might need to change things a bit.

Post Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:55 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Ha awesome workshop access😎You gonna start up a school robotics club? 😜
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www.wombokforest.com.au

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Post Tue Apr 05, 2016 9:52 am 
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Cpnwolfe



Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 450
Location: Rockhampton/qld


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that's great man good job!
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Post Tue Apr 05, 2016 1:23 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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I replaced the small orange receiver with large one from my feather weights, same problem. I replaced the orange receiver and transmitter module with my old FrSky setup and it all works fine. Now I'm thinking of dumping the orange stuff and switching back to FrSky.

Post Sat Apr 09, 2016 1:34 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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I've just come back from a 10 day trip to Hong Kong. While I was there I picked a new toy, a cheap 360 degree camera. I thought it would be good fun to set it up inside the arena. I've uploaded one test video to youtube (of me and Connie walking around Sham Shui Po) and it's better to watch on a modile phone or tablet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBpVTVB-qGc
Should be interesting to try mounting it to a wall

Post Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:57 pm 
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Philip
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Joined: 18 Jun 2004
Posts: 3842
Location: Queensland near Brisbane


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What would you recommend in rc wheels? I want about 130 mm diameter wheels to go onto drills. I like the idea of softer wheels that don't transmit too much energy from spinners.
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Post Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:54 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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I wonder how a 360 degree camera would go on Mr Mangle, a Go-Pro clone delivered a good footage a few years ago and a wider view can only be a good thing (unless you get motion sickness Smile)
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Post Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:11 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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Philip: I don't recommend RC wheels. I've switched to 100mm aluminum core scooter wheels.

Nick: The 360 camera would be interesting mounted to the robot, but I still haven't figured out how to change the original orientation point of the videos.

Everyone else: I borrowed the schools laser cutter and made a new ant Very Happy


Post Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:52 pm 
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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The ant looks terrific! Does it self right with the lifter?
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:59 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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Nope. Rolling Eyes but I'll cut a new arm with some modifcations on monday morning and have it ready for sport on Tuesday.
BTW, I now run 3D printing and robotics for my sports class. I'll build 2 more ants and make it a proper sports session. Twisted Evil

Post Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:39 pm 
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miles&Jules
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Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: ipswich QLD


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Looks awesome Daniel
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www.mulesfilm.com.au
www.wombokforest.com.au

-Pickasso- Vivid Sportsman champion 2015

Post Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Daniel
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Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 2729
Location: Gold Coast


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I should post something about my new ants and the modifications that I have been making to them.


Rob Anybody.

It performed well at its first competition. The flipper arm had been remade twice between the previous photo and the competition to help with selfrighting and strength. The plywood survived rather well, as can be seen in the photo, but next time I'll bring some spare arms in case they take more damage.
The robot had a gearbox failure after taking a hit from Miles's spinner on one of the wheels, which caused drive problems for the rest of the competition. To fix this I have designed a new version with larger wheel guards. I've also 3D printed new wheels that use o-rings for grip. I brought a bag of 200 x 30mm o-rings, so I'll never run out. I have also redesigned the flipper to be a different type of 4-bar layout. I'll have to wait for school to go back before I can cut it out.

Big Yan

Really seemed that no-one could pronounce this robot's name correctly.
A0101 was designed around the idea of using rubber bands for tracks. This proved to be a stupid idea and for the competition it run with foam wheels on the drive and the 3D printed wheels on the idlers. Unfortunately it also suffered from a purchasing error since I ordered 100rpm motors by mistake and the robot was way to slow to be an effective pushy bot (except when Miles drove into the pit, thanks).
So I have made A0103, which has new 500rpm motors and o-rings for tracks. The drive motors are switched to the front wheels to allow an easier and stronger installation of the idler axle. The idler was also increased to 40mm just for fun. To make sure there was enough space for the electronics I added a cover on the top so the seedos can sit on top. Really no other changes and I just need to wire it up.
A0102 was also drawn up as a brushless version, but got scrapped.

Wee Mad Arthur

A0701 was cut out and glued together for the competition, but wasn't finished since the saw blades didn't arrive. While looking at it after the blades arrived I decided there wasn't actually enough room to install the speedos, so I went for a new revision.
A0702 looks rather different. I brought the wheels forward so the electronics could sit behind them, away from the blade. I still need to 3D print a new hub for the weapon motor, and I really, really wish I owned a 3D printer so I could make stuff during the holidays when I actually have free time. But it should be ready for a drive test tomorrow, once I fix the tansmittor battery.

I have also drawn up 3 other designs that I could get cut (A0501, A0801 and A1501) but it seems silly to have more robots than radios.

Post Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:14 pm 
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