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Jolt & friends - Team Overkill - NSW
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Nick
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Jolt & friends - Team Overkill - NSW

Jolt - Team Overkill


Builder : Nick Martin
Driver : Nick Martin
Class : FeatherWeight
Chassis/Armour : 5 & 10 mm aluminium with titanium wedges
Weapon : Titanium bar with tool steel blades, driven by a Mag 150 motor
Drive : Whyachi TWR15 gearmotors
Controller : Victor 885
Batteries : 21V CP3600 Nicad pack




Scissorhands

Builder : Nick Martin
Driver : Nick Martin
Class : FeatherWeight
Chassis/Armour : 4.2mm titanium
Weapon : bigger Titanium bar with tool steel blades, driven by a Mag 150 motor at 2,300rpm
Drive : Banebots 36mm gearmotors
Controller : Victor 885
Batteries : 22V Lipo pack
Major Achievement: Silver medal at Robogames 2008



Mr Mangle

Class : FeatherWeight
Chassis/Armour : 8.1mm titanium
Weapon : S7 steel eggbeater, driven by an outrunner motor at 7,000rpm
Drive : Banebots 36mm gearmotors with brushless inrunner motors
Controller : Novak Crusher
Batteries : 22V Lipo pack
Major Achievement: Competed at the 2014 UK nationals event.




Shiny

Class : FeatherWeight
Chassis/Armour : 7mm titanium
Weapon : S7 steel eggbeater, driven by a 4KW Neu in-runner motor at 7,000rpm
Drive : Banebots 36mm gearmotors with brushless inrunner motors
Controller : Novak Crusher
Batteries : 29V Lipo pack
Major Achievement: Scares young children



Last edited by Nick on Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:58 pm; edited 8 times in total

Post Mon Jul 12, 2004 8:40 am 
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Nick
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The armour is coming along, but slowly. I found that cobalt drill bits are a quarter the price of tunsten bits and hopefully 4 of them will get the 50-odd mounting holes drilled before wearing out. There is also a big front wedge in titanium and UMHW to be made.

All the armour will be attached with M4 stainless steel screws. Once I get the Ti polished up a bit, the bot should look fantastic!

The last bit of news is sponsorship; I am talking to the manager of my work's website and there might be a deal down the line. Not sure what I could get, it probably won't be a cash deal.
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 1:38 pm 
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andrew



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Location: Castle Hill, Sydney. N.S.W


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Still, if u can get some stuff than thats alright. Would love to hear how that goes for u mate.
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 4:02 pm 
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Nick
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All the tools and materials for attaching the armour turned up today, along with an end mill for cutting flats in the EV Warrior shafts. Trying the end mill in the drill press will either be very cool or a total disaster - I'm hoping for option A.

I still need a way to cut the armour and its looking like a jigsaw and plenty of replacement blades - I like the idea of laser cutting but after about three laser jobs I have paid for a top notch jigsaw and the saw will be useful for other things.

Some work with the Matweb materials weight calc shows that Basilisk will be up around 12.5 Kg after all the new bits are added - porky but not the heaviest bot in the comp
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 4:19 pm 
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DumHed
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end mill for shaft flats???

What's wrong with a hand file, or the side of a bench grinder wheel!? Smile

I guess some people like to do things the proper way Razz
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 5:13 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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What is an end Mill?

Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:31 pm 
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Nick
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Here is a quick explanation of end mills:
http://www.nmri.go.jp/eng/khirata/metalwork/milling/endmill/index_e.html

A 10mm EM costs about $15 so its worth trying out something new - I might be able to use it to cut a better edge in the weapon bar as well. If it doesn't work out in the drill press, I can keep it around for when I get a proper mill (it might be quite rusty by then Smile )
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:03 pm 
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Nick
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It was $15 well spent on the milling bit Smile . I was able to mill slots in aluminium and UMHW and face some mild steel. Nothing like as good as a real mill of course, but a great start. The performance in UMHW was excellent and making internal plastic rails as in the team Mad Cow bots is looking easy(er).
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Post Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:36 pm 
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Nick
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I picked up some roller bearings for the EV Warrior re-build today. $10 each for a 40mm OD size that can take 980 Kg of radial force. Stacking 2 of these up will be next to unbreakable and adds about 30mm the Basilisk's hight. The hight increase is not so good, so a new blade will be made for the next event so the skinny bots can't sneak under.
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Post Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:18 pm 
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Nick
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I couldn't wait for the laser/waterjet cutting to sort itself out, so I took the best advise on the Battlebots forum and bought a beefy jigsaw to cut up my titanium sheet. Let's hope that 8 replacement blades are enough to see the job thru. After that, its down to the very boring drilling & tapping

Does any one have proven advise on polishing titanium? I'm thinking wire brush and/or flap sander to remove the surface grunge.
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Post Thu Jul 15, 2004 2:14 pm 
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Nick
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The Ti cutting went woefully Sad. It's going to have to be laser cut for sure. The jigsaw blades cut well for a short distance but after only 3 to 5cm, they go blunt and the Ti starts glowing red & sparking. Blunt probably isn't the word - no teeth left at all would be more accurate!

On a better note, I dissected one of the dead EV motors and measured everything and the new heavy-duty replacement bearing is coming along nicely.

The chassis is completely stripped and cleaned, ready for assembly and action next weekend.
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Post Sun Jul 18, 2004 5:57 pm 
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Glen
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well it seems what your experienceing is the titanium hardening.

maybe going even slower and pouring on even more lubrication will yield results?
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Post Sun Jul 18, 2004 6:10 pm 
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Knightrous
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Location: NSW


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We have experience the same with our 1mm Stainless. The best thing you can do is used TONNES of coolant and lubicant and just keep feeding your jigsaw blades. Andrew went through 8-9 blades and had to buy a second jigsaw.... Confused
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Post Sun Jul 18, 2004 8:40 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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Also buy the best quality blades desighned for cuting stainles steel as they will probaly last the longests in the titanium .. i found i got more use doing short runs of about 10mm and cooling the blade with oil before starting the cut again once the blade starts to get hot it will lose its cutting edge pronto Also can it be cut with a grinder ? the stainles cuts a lot easier .. tried it later with those thin c/d type cutting blades .. but im not sure about the titanium i think its not meant to be cut with abarasives .

Post Sun Jul 18, 2004 11:54 pm 
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Totaly_Recycled
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Just to Add to that post ive cut easily through pieces of tooling steel for my lathe like they were butter with the thin flexivte cutting discs so mabe if you have an air powerd grinder and mark your lines with a perm marker first then take the piece out side and just run the garden hose on it flat out while you are cutting it so the disc and the job stays saturated it might work .Ypu might have to wear a rain coat though lol ...

Post Mon Jul 19, 2004 12:01 am 
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