Everyone seems to forget sproing is a lifter its not retired yet only waiting for its main controler to be repaired..sorry Newylen we should shift this into a flame wars thread or something .

No worries, I don't mind it makes my build thread look more interesting, also it gives me ideas

Question...Do people think that a cam on the end of a drill motor would have enough energy to lift a hinged wedge enough to lift another robot?

Probably not, a cam can only translate *1* turn of rotational energy into X amount of linear energy. 1 turn of a drill motor doesnt contain a lot of energy, even after the 36:1 plantary reduction.

A few possibilities.

Daisy-chain multiple drill gearboxes giving you a huge planetary reduction, then cam-drive off the output of that. might break the first stage gears of the second gearbox though, since they arent designed to cope with that torque

Use a lead-screw or Worm-Drive like Vincent and Blade have done

Use a small-to-large chain/belt reduction on the output of a drill.

Use another drive, like electric-window motors or battery-powered barbeque-spit-rotator motors (These are particularly powerfol, slow and relatively cheap - my parents had one, and I remember that I couldnt stop the output turning no matter what as a teenager) you might even gear the output up a bit to get more speed if they're as powerful as slow and torquey as I remember. Perhaps a cheapy electric-winch ?
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Instead of a Cam, a Crank would probably be more effective. I was experimenting with a winch motor and a crank arm around 18months ago and on 12v, it was easily lifting 500mm and tossing a car tyre + rim with ease.

I'll throw up a diagram of what I did in just a bit... Very simple, very effective, very reliable! The Winch motor made the setup a little heavier then desired, but I'm sure a pair of 256:1 Banebots motors would easily match it for less weight.

EDIT:

Diagram... a ww motor would work well.

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A wiper motor or one of Jaycars 100 to 1 gear motors.
Bit worried about hits from Orbit Jolt and co; need a big spring in there somewhere to protect the gears.
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Maybe a rubber linkage between the lifting arm and the crank.

The 256:1, 42mm Planetary Gearmotor, RS-550 Motor is a litle pricy, but would a lot lighter then a ww motor (which would need 24v) and saves the hassle of making your own mega reduction for the Jaycar motor. 12-18v would provide sufficient results.
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The wiper motor I had in mind was the type that occurs as a natural recourse in the tailgates of old station wagons etc, think I have an old one somewhere, more compact than regular front ones and the linkage is well on its way to being a lifter.
The other easy lifter mechanism is the electric seat adjuster that Pincher and Scoopie have already used.
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Satisfaction is proportional to effort and results.

Another interesting automotive artifact I souvenir as a potential bot part is an electric sunroof motor and cables.

Was thinking of Scoopie Mk 2 with a tray that tilts up to trap bots even better?
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Satisfaction is proportional to effort and results.

Thank's for the input guy's. It was just an idea at this stage, I think my next bot will be a thwack bot, much easier to armour well.

i wonder if something can be done with some sort of screw thread and elastic, think occy straps tensioned by a drill running a screw thread. Attach that to some kind of flippy/hurty/ouchy thing and you might have something.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

I already played around with a ww motor and trampoline springs in my vice a while ago it could easliy tension two tramponine springs a distance of 80 mm on 12 volts i didnt try 3 for safety reasons ( my jig set up was starting to bend with 2 )I also have an idea i have tested that enables the springs to be tensioned to a pre determined point and held there with the worm gearing then released by switching the motor back on to fire and re- load in one go . i have built this with a small window winder motor to try the idea but i havent built a ful sized one the main prob is weight makeing it strong enough to hold the springs under tension needs to be strong so to get any real fliping power from springs meens a ridgid frame so would probaly ending up being heavier than a pheumatic set up with a 1/3 or lkess flipping power .(80mm was the most stretch i could get from trampoline springs before they distorted 100mm would streth them past their return capabilities)

Twas that the setup we were tinkering for Annihilation to run a non-spinner weapon around 4 years ago? I remember we broke the little motor or something in the process
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So we've got about 3 weeks, and I think I've got about 3 days free in that time. Hence 6x7 is making a comeback..... As a Thwack bot. I started on it today and striped it down and made it thinner and fitted the axe. I'm hoping to have enough weight for 10mm of steel armour failing that 8mm. It will be a box again but I have cut the centre out of it to make it narrower.

Ok so I've almost finished the upgrades.

http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1415

It's 8mm armor across the back, 3mm on the sides, It's finally got triangle corners welded in the 4 base corners and 2 of the top ones.

I've cut a piece of 6mm mdf for top armor.

Thing's still to do....

- Fix battery pack (resolder a braid)
- Add conveyor belt to the rear corners.
-Put some conveyor belt across the front.

Oh and the external dimensions are now 530mm x 300mm x 60mm
and the best bit is without the axe it will fit in a suitcase so I can travel with it!!!