Looks good. When you get it going crash it into walls and take it over jumps to see if you can get the chains to fall off.

Go with a square layout for the wheels, left to right = front to back. All the great rammers use this layout, even Razor too. My brother made the wheel layout square on all his Hellbringers and never had a problem with steering or driving straight.

How heavy is it so far?

Sorry boring answer Aaron: Local bearing shop. This will be a good test for the Number 25 chain. Its small light and from the mcmaster specs 140lbs(63Kg) Working Load, 1050lbs(477Kg) Breaking point(correct me If I'm wrong). My chain is a good quality chain about $50 10 Feet I think. Sprockets well um, bout $8 each.

Remember (as I have to)you will need a chain tensioner for chains.



Last edited by assassin on Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:08 pm; edited 1 time in total

Totaly_Recycled(Andrew). I know how I'm doing my chain tensioner and we will see how it goes. I see what you are saying.

Daniel, I can't remember weight. I think I have about 1-1.5kg for front wedges/whatever. I will get correct weight later for your info. I have digital scales.

I love my new camera phone(small things amuse...).

Picture of wheels aligned(temp) with equal spacing, front 2 back left 2 right.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/Wheelsalign.jpg

Picture of modified motor cans. High temp epoxied magnets.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/MotorCan1.jpg

Nick suggested leaving room for mounting bolts(some form of tube, maybe al) and filling with epoxy between magnets.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/MotorCan.jpg

I'm looking for a tube small enough.


O and my new toy a got yesterday, havnt used it yet.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/DrillPress.jpg


Also thanx to Aaron in the past for answering all my PM questions(and others).

Cardboard version of my next bot, its going to be a lifter.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/Kato1.jpg

Front wedge will lift up and down.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/Kato3.jpg

When down and the main drive wheels are off the ground, driven wheelie wheels will be used and are on the(part of) the rear wedge.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/trentellis/Kato2.jpg

I want the front wedge to be made out of ti.


Thoughts?

nice! That's what the motor and gearbox is for eh?
Regarding the Ti, it looks it would need to be welded, which isn't such a good idea. I think if it was made of thinnish steel it would be just as good!
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Yeah, I just want to do some testing with it further geared too see if it or something similar could be used as a lifter drive.

My thoughts were ali frame with ti screwed to it for the wedge(maybe ). Steel would be a good start thou.

I want some low and wide custom wheels too.

Make the wedge out of some 3mm stainless, pretty tough stuff when used correctly and can be welded with a stick welder....
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Simple question: The main difference between mild steel and stainless?

Chromium

Price, weldablitiy, most have better strength the mild steels.

Personally I'd prefer a sheet of bisalloy. Its cheaper then stainless and has better impact qualities. Plus its easier to weld.
If it works for Sewer Snake, SJ and the other good american spinner killers then then it should work against our spinners.

Wiki explains both:
Stainless - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_Steel
Mild - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mild_steel


EDIT: Bisalloy 400, Hardox 400 & AR400 are basically all the same stuff, just different brand names.... Like Makrolon & Lexan are brands of Polycarbonate
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

Last edited by Knightrous on Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:02 pm; edited 1 time in total

Interesting thanx. Isn't bisalloy hard to weld? Or it gets weak at the welds?

I really should search b4 posting . Thanx Aaron.

Where I work we design and sell weld on teeth adapters which weld straight onto the bisalloy cutting edges on the front of earthmoving buckets. So yes, it can be welded. All the stickers on the cutting edges we sell say the weld area must be pre and post heated, but if its done in the feild then it must not be too difficult.

Ok, great guys. I'll build the first(few) test one out of mild steel until I'm happy(never) with it and look into other metals in the meantime.



BTW is no one else using or planning to use Bisalloy/Hardox on there bots