Robot Stats

Robot name : Puncturer

Location: Melbourne VIC

Robot weight: Feather 13.6 kg

Type of Robot: Wedge + Spikes

Drive system: 2 x 100W Scooter Motors

Type/size of wheels: 5" (127mm) Scooter wheels

Weapon/s: Spikes

Speed/motor control: Scorpion XL and RCE200 R/C Solid State D-Switch Ver A

Power: 2 x 12V 3A Panasonic SLA

Type of radio controller: Spektrum

Last edited by Andrew W on Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:39 pm; edited 6 times in total

The controller is going to be a modified PRC. I am looking at using the 150W scooter motors controllers from Oatley to provide the variable speed and using a 30A DPDT relay to provide the direction control.

I'm using a ULN-2803 darlington driver instead of the ULN-2003, so I can use all 8 outputs from the 18X instead of only 7.

Andrew W

Hey mate, those coin hopper motors and gearboxes on oatley seem to have a fairly slow output (only a few rpms i believe).You'd be better off getting a car can motor or other high power motor and gearing it down a little (such as 2:1) to get the KE up. Good luck with it!
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Time to show some pictures

Below is a picture of the main components
http://robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1321

Below is a picture of the coin hopper motor and gearbox
http://robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1322

The coin hopper's speed it quite low but I was thinking of replacing the motor with another motor (perhaps a drill motor or the 100W jaycar motor). I was thinking of chain or belt driving the weapon from one of the 8mm D shafts.

getting a good start youll need some pretty remarkable gear up off the gearbox if your using that. only about 150rpm or so at 18-24v which is nothing. not sure what size the motor is but it could be okay i guess if you belt drive it from the motor alone. (which would be alot smarter then using the whole gearbox)
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From the Oatley web site:

quote:

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Some approx. voltage/current & RPM figures of the motor/gearbox.
2V 80mA 7RPM,
6V 100mA 30RPM,
12V 120mA 60RPM,
18V 140mA 110RPM,

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Been looking at the controller, and found the 18X has got only one pwm out . I've looked at the 28X and it has 2 pwm outputs - perfect to connect to the 150W Oatley motor controller. The 28X outputs line up perfectly with the ULN2803 driver chips inputs when you put the chips side by side, makes wiring up the bit of veroboard heaps easier .

I've found that the 24V DPDT relays from Jaycar a perfect match with the 100W scooter motors, I've stalled the motors and then reversed the polarity using the relay and I didn't do any damage to the relay

Figured out how I'm going to build the frame out of the bits of steel from the old bikes. Old bikes + angle grinder -> cheap source of good quality steel

Still not sure about the weapon motor, but will probably go with a car fan motor, probably like the one Neweyn uses on his robot (I think it comes out of a TR Magna).

Found it will be too difficult to cut the 8mm steel (I don't have access to an oxy torch), so I'll use a stainless steel blade instead. I think the blade is around 16mm wide.
I've also weighed the nicad batteries that I was going to use to replace the SLAs and found that there will only be a few hundred grams difference between them . The Nicads are Sanyo N3000CR and 20 of them in a box weighs about 2.1KG, 400gm lighter than the 2 12V 3.2A SLAs.

Do you need the battery box? The 24 v pack of N-3000CRs should only be 1.7 kg by themselves.
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The Magna motors are great for bots; light yet quite powerful @ 24V. Just don't mount the blade directly on the motor shaft - it will bend after just a few hits.
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Tried to weld the old bike steel at TAFE last Friday. The teacher said I couldn't arc it because the wall thickness was too small, so he suggested I oxy it. I tried using the oxy but I was finding that I could get one piece molten but not the other due to the different thicknesses of the metals . When I took it home and stress tested it I found that the majority of the welds didn't work at all . So there goes the idea of using old bike frames.
Anyway I've been able to get some 6mm Aluminium flat so it looks like I'll be using that for the frame, along with 3mm gal for the corner mounting points.

Take it to a Pro bike shop or Fabrication/welding shop with a TIG. Chances are they will be able to weld it properly.

Being to be able to produce battle worthy welds with your first time on a metal glue gun is pretty unlikely. Its something much better off left to someone who drives a welder for a living.

To hold the frame together while you mock up the design, drill some small holes in it, and use Twisted wire and Gaffa tape.

Internal non-structural brackets to hold access panels, and mounting things can be done with angle-aluminium, a drill, hacksaw and pop rivets at home after the main structural elements have been welded.

If you do the setup and jigging it in place properly so the welder can just go "zap zap zap" and stick it all together it should work out fairly cheap as well
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I would be happy to weld up your frame Andrew, just tack it or tape it best you can and we can work out how to get it to me.

I've used the PIC16F877A for driving of PWM's $12 or so from Jaycar. Seems pretty reliable in terms of handling nasty EMI, some people have had problems with latchup in their chips before.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Thanks for the offer Gary, but I've decided to go for an aluminium frame, mainly because the steel had too small a wall dia and overall dia.
Here are some pictures of the parts I'm using.

View of the frame
http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1330

Front view of parts + frame
http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1331

Side view of parts + frame
http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=1332


btw how does one embed pictures into their posts ?