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Scissorhands - team OverKill - NSW
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Nick
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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Location: Sydney, NSW


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Just noticed the new range of gearmotors @ BaneBots; The 42mm, 16:1 model looks perfect for Scissorhands:





The larger size means a stronger output stage and although its not that much bigger than the 38mm version, it might take an 'Andrew mod" support plate. The other nice bit is that the same Whyachi wheels will fit with just a small amount of work. a pair of these are only around 100grams heavier that the TWR15 motors I was going to use, so tryig a pair out is a no-brainer Smile
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Post Mon Jan 01, 2007 2:06 pm 
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Nick
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After Robowars, It seems that Scissorhands is my best option for defeating the new bread of ultra low wedges - focus the energy down low on their edges Smile. Work on this bot is going into high gear and those new Banebot 42mm gearmotors are already ordered. I only had two motors break at Robowars but that was enough to convince me to upgrade. The new gearboxes will get larger pins and an 'Andrew-mod' support plate if there is space.

Scissorhands will start off with Jolt's blade for testing and I have just ordered the Ti plate to make an improved weapon bar that locks the teeth in position - no more lost teeth when the bolts shear! The new teeth are also taking shape; they are being cut from the same piece of S7 steel as Chuck's beater and this time they are double ended so that I can reverse the weapon direction.
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Post Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:44 am 
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Nick
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Some gear research.

I checked out the second stage of the 36mm Whyachi motors tonight. There is far more room than I thought and it looks possible to do an 'Andrew mod' on them. The assembled gears look like this:



The the pins are all 3mm and there is room for the extra 3 pins between the gears. If the existing brittle pins are removed and six new 1/8" (3.175mm) pins are added, then the output stage will probably last as well as Andrew's motors.



The sun gear is pressed into the carrier plate in these motors. That means it can be pressed out slightly so it still has a full mesh with the planetary gears after the support plate is added.



If the mod is possible on the 36mm gearboxes, then the 42mm boxes should do even better Very Happy.
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Post Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:44 pm 
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Nick
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Now hitting harder:

The titanium for the new weapon bar turned up today. For comparison, Jolt's bar is sitting on the new stock and there is very little scrap left over from that sheet once the parts are cut...



Apart from being bigger, the new bar will lock the teeth in place so there are no repeats of them flying off and causing a loss.
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Post Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:08 pm 
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dyrodium
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Shocked Shocked Shocked
Damn... What's the dimensions on that Nick the sheet and the new bar?
Heh And I reacon you could get two bars out of that... IF the watercut guys are accurate enough anyway!
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Post Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:58 am 
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Nick
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It's about 600mm long - I plan to get a long bar, a short bar, a stiffening spacer and some armour out of it - nothing is going to waste! If I had more time and equipment, this piece would make a smaller version of Relic's friction-driven bar Rolling Eyes
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Post Wed Jan 24, 2007 11:04 am 
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Knightrous
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Joined: 15 Jun 2004
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Mmmm... I wonder what size of a hammer you need to bend that stuff.... Cool
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Post Wed Jan 24, 2007 11:13 am 
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Nick
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The new Banebots gearmotors arrived today and (naturally Rolling Eyes) the first thing I did was dissasemble one of them:





The output stage is interesting; the gear carrier is independent from the shaft and they just lock together with a D shaft like the big Dewalts. I like the four gears on the output shaft but its dissapointing that they are brass - steel would have been so much better! The pins are still only 3mm, so an upsize to 3.5 or 4mm is the first thing to do. There is very little space between the four gears and its unlikely that extra pins would fit the way that Andrew mods drill motors. I'm hoping that bigger pins and a support plate on the back will be enough. With the seperate output gear carrier plate, I could mill it a little thinner to compensate for the pin support plate. All up, I like the bigger gearbox, except for those brass gears.
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Post Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:19 pm 
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Wazio88



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I am going to hunt for some steel gear soon for this unit. I just got 4 of them for my LW flipper. I opted for the 775 motor to get a little more power, here are my pics of it. http://www.teamwazio.com/tips/banebots.php The new bot looks good. Very Relic-ish... Smile look foward to seeing how you arrange its guts.

Post Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:55 am 
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Nick
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Hi Wazio,

Nice tutorial page! How did you go removing the four M3 screws that hold the gearbox together? Two screws on mine seemed to be locktited and one of them snapped in half before rather than screw out! I couldn't see any locktite so I'm guessing the hole wasn't threaded. It's in so tight that it will have to be drilled out and re-tapped.

If you manage to find replacement gears, I would like to get at least 16 and I'd think you could sell quite a few more. As mentioned above, I am looking at replacing the output pins with better quality 5/32" pins. If I take plenty of photos, would you like to turn that into another tutorial?

Scissorhands is actually based on Totally Offensive; I spent around three months swapping emails with Robert Woodhead and Pete Smith on the latest TO design. My version is lower and the internals are simpler, but they will look like twins at Robolympics Smile
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Post Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:54 am 
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Nick
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Since I am stalled waiting for parts for Chuck, Its full ahead with Scissorhands. I have finished modding the new Banebots gearmotors and they look pretty good; one motor draws more current for some reason, but both gearboxes turn very smoothly and have way less backlash than the Whyachi TWR15 models. We will have to wait for some battles to see how the brass gears hold up...

The next job looks like finishing the wiring and a test drive. If that works out, it's time to start on the longer, higher voltage version. I have almost finished the CAD for the new weapon; there will be a longer bar for versing other undercutters and a short and very stiff blade for everyone else. The shorter blade may have larger teeth to keep the KE up. I am looking at the idea of having a shorter spar for the short blade version as well, the extra weight could go into wheel guards or a rear wedge.
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Post Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:18 pm 
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Nick
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Some real progress tonight - the Banebots motors are run in and are now using less current. It took 12 hours for the first one and closer to 15 for the other one, I am very happy that the new charger has a program just for doing this! I also finished up the Blade CAD, although I am still at a loss about using the off-cuts.
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Post Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:45 pm 
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Nick
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The CAD is coming along well; I did the first 3D renders in Rhino today:






The tooth is 24mm high and I expect it to do just as much or more damage than the current version. As you can see, this one has retaining tabs to stop the tooth coming off during impacts. The weight worked out to be 286 grams each, slightly lighter than the current teeth.

The bad news is that Scissorhands is seriously over weight Sad I already lightened several parts and there are still more important parts to add - something is going to have to be downgraded.
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Post Sun Mar 04, 2007 1:51 pm 
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Nick
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The CAD of the new frame is taking shape - here it is as a flat-pack:





Everything fits together with tabs 'n slots before the outside edges are welded. I made the top cover (not shown) a bayonet fit like many computer case lids for quick and easy removal. The weight is back down to something reasonable, however the longer blade is never going to fit.
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Post Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:59 am 
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dyrodium
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Shocked Tabs and Slots!? Ingenious! Razz
That thing will be damn solid! How are you tackling the selfrighting? TO style hoop, surgical strikes inbuild rear spare loop or something else?
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Post Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:17 am 
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