lol that guy has too much CPU and weight to spare
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Robert is a smart cookie; he started off with a small POV kit, rewrote the code, changed some of the electronics and ended up with a very small & light display. Its hidden inside a hollow aluminium bar - I'm not sure it will ever make it into a real match though.

Progress:
The blade teeth have finally been cut and sent to Whyachi for machining - Scissorhands might actually make it to Robogames at this rate The S7 stock was 50mm thick and had room for six blanks, so I figure I can get three heavy and three lighter teeth cut to go with different length bars. The lighter teeth will be 30mm wide , while the heavy ones will be up to 45mm wide twisted:

The pre-waterjetting frame model is taking shape; Angus's idea of printing the design on heavy cardboard at Kinkos was good, except that cutting it out would be a bitch. Printing half sized onto heavy photo paper and then laminating the paper will make a thinner but quite stiff panel that can be cut out with scissors.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

all new from overkill robotics paper mashe robot wars.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Forget the titanium, just use the laminated paper for the frame!
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( •_•)

( •_•)>⌐■-■

(⌐■_■)

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

What would I call it? Origami underfolder?
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Safety Scissors
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https://www.halfdonethings.com/

need foam protectors on every corner.
paper cuts suck.

On another note. I played with some laminated aluminium foil at one stage. Talk about stiff.
twas ~3mm thick and I couldn't bend the stuff.
The foil itself was about .05mm or so i think, and some magical epoxy as the matrix material. good stuff
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Have a look for companies with a flat bed plotter. We've got one for cutting glass & carbon cloth at work but it would be really easy to cut your cardboard model out.

Most sail makers and signwriting companies should be able to help you out.

If you can't get anyone to help locally have a look into how much it would cost to ship from the uk 'cause I might be able to cut it for you.
(these people might do it: http://www.adval.com.au/newsdetail.php?ID=8)

I've done stuff like this before at other places and it's worked really well. It's perfect for prototyping work.

Mark

Thanks for the offer Mark, but the laminated paper seems to be good enough and really quick (except for cutting out the tiny slots ). I managed to fit the parts on A4 paper at 3/4 size and so far, everything appears to fit perfectly. One thing that really came across is how tiny the frame is; @ 3/4 size it barely covers mu outstretched hand and looks the size of a thick book.

While working on the model. I came up with an idea for adjusting the blade hight. It's nothing like Totally Offensives's massive adjustment range but it would enable my blade to pass over other undercutter blades (Inspector General comes to mind ) and attack the opponent's frame. The best part is that it adds very little weight and complexity.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

quote:

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Originally posted by Nick:
Hi Wazio,

Nice tutorial page! How did you go removing the four M3 screws that hold the gearbox together? Two screws on mine seemed to be locktited and one of them snapped in half before rather than screw out! I couldn't see any locktite so I'm guessing the hole wasn't threaded. It's in so tight that it will have to be drilled out and re-tapped.

If you manage to find replacement gears, I would like to get at least 16 and I'd think you could sell quite a few more. As mentioned above, I am looking at replacing the output pins with better quality 5/32" pins. If I take plenty of photos, would you like to turn that into another tutorial?

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Hi Swayzio, I guess you were off giving dancing lessons and not reading the forums .

The motors are going great and I took plenty of pics. Since the first upgrade, I came up with better ways to do some steps so I will have to take more photos - totally worth it though. As mentioned a few posts ago, the motors on the 42mm gearboxes have more torque and a higher stall current, so those steel gears will be a worthwhile upgrade.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Addemdum to that: I found why the screws were sooo hard to get out: the rear plates of the gearboxes are tapped about half way through. All the M3 screws from the BB motors had stripped threads at the end from being driven into the untapped part of the hole - no wonder they were hard to remove!
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

Well, Beef'n up the pin will change the type O gear that we need to hunt for. What is the size of the gear that we will need? You have one of the gears out that you could get tis dems and shoot em over to me?

No dancing, just lots and lots of long hour days at work. Slacking a little today... Found a good shade tree with a signal...

LOL, I'm just going to work myself, in an icey data centre with so many server fans going, you have to shout to be heard.

The gear shouldn't change much; I simply drilled out the hole to 4mm, which happens to be a perfect fit with the 5/32' pin. I made a simple little jig to hold the gears on the drill press and they have all turned out perfectly. I would just take the first gear that matched the originals and drill out the hole.
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Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion

ive only had to drill 3 gears so far and i put them in the lathe to make sure i get the hole centered