Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
It all depends on how likely it is that each part will get damaged. I would at least get a spare for the front wedge and other external parts that will take direct impacts. Internal parts should last longer as long as they are well designed. It might be an idea to have a spare disk - they should last a while but when spinning weapons fail, its usually sudden and catastrophic. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Mon May 01, 2017 5:53 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Ah I see. Thanks Nick.
Mon May 01, 2017 6:05 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Well... Turns out that laser cutting really can't make holes with diameter smaller than the thickness of the plate, so that means I will have to find another place to machine the hardox parts. (the part in question was the spinning disc, which is 15m thick and have m8 holes in it.)
Any suggestion on machine shops other than action laser?
Sun May 07, 2017 12:51 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
Aquacut
http://www.aquacut.com.au/index.html
have been very helpful and they are in Sydney. Perhaps if the 8mm holes can't be lasered, you can just get the laser to blow a hole through the disks for positioning and then have another place drill out the holes. _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Sun May 07, 2017 2:02 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the info.
Their website says they also do laser cutting, so I might be able to do all the steel parts there.
Sun May 07, 2017 3:14 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Update: I've found someone to do the ali parts, and the pulleys are also sorted out.
The problem is the steel/wear plate parts... Actionlaser said that they cannot cut holes with diameter smaller than thickness. I asked Aquacut but so far no replies... So...any other possible solutions?
Mon May 29, 2017 1:25 pm
maddox
Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium
Why are the holes smaller in diameter than the thickness of the plate?
The only reason I can see is to have enough meat left to tap the hole. But tapping in wearplate, that is something I try to avoid at all cost.
My taps ain't happy with that task.... I rather use rivnuts or weld a nut to the plate.
Mon May 29, 2017 2:39 pm
Nick Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 11802
Location: Sydney, NSW
The guy at Aquacut is in the UK for a funeral for about another week. I found that DMG Engineering
http://www.dmgengineering.com.au/
was cheaper by 40% and got my parts cut in less than a week.
Edit: yeah, weld nuts are the way to go rather than tapping Bisalloy! _________________ Australian 2015 Featherweight champion
UK 2016 Gladiator champion
Last edited by Nick on Mon May 29, 2017 2:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
Mon May 29, 2017 2:40 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
The holes are in the spinner disc, eight 8mm through holes to fix the disc to the center tube.
Mon May 29, 2017 2:41 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the info Nick.
Mon May 29, 2017 7:14 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
In the middle of a buying streak, I'm currently stuck on radio systems...
I'm totally a newbie at RC stuff so... Any suggestions?
(I would love to have the ability to do tank steering mixing (if that's a thing), but I don't really know how to search for that.)
Wed May 31, 2017 11:52 pm
chunkulator
Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219
The feature you need to search for is generally called "V Tail Mixing", because it's mainly used on RC planes which have V shaped tails with control surfaces on them that act as combined rudder and aileron or something.
If you buy the programming cable you can set up skid steer mixing from a PC. They also failsafe correctly.
Many people also use the Orange radios. Also other cheap radios that have a "V Tail Mix" feature can be made to work.
The other feature you need is a receiver that has failsafe. This means that when the receiver loses connection from the transmitter it either explicitly sends a centre stick position to your ESCs or stops sending signal to your ESCs altogether, in which case your ESCs will also stop the robot. Before you will be allowed to fight you need to demonstrate that your robot stops all movement when you switch off your transmitter.
Thu Jun 01, 2017 6:30 am
maddox
Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 786
Location: Belgium
RX/TX sets. My first one was a Multiplex Commander 2020. Cost. 1 months wage. Prone to interference and difficult to setup.
Now Team RCC uses the FlySky FSi6. Costs about 8 McDonalds menus, easy to use and due the 2.4GHz tech, interference is not a big deal anymore.
Thu Jun 01, 2017 3:28 pm
MoonSet416
Joined: 25 Sep 2016
Posts: 436
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the info chunkulator and maddox.
I've still got a few questions though...
How do I know if a Rx has failsafe? I looked at the Rx in the link but there's no description on that...
I also noticed that there are mode 1 and 2 version of the same Tx, the only difference being the throttle position (left or right). Does that affect mixing? (I wish to have tank/V-tail mixing on the left and weapon on the right, does that mean I should get the version with left side throttle?)
Thu Jun 01, 2017 4:57 pm
chunkulator
Joined: 27 Jul 2016
Posts: 219
Ordering from cheap places like HobbyKing the only real way to know if the Rx failsafe behaves properly is to buy one and see, or ask on here in case somebody has tried it. I've been posting info on any radios I've bought and tried in the Technical section of the forum. One of the radios I bought recently didn't failsafe but I bought a new RX that worked with the transmitter that did, for example.
On mode 1 vs mode 2, this is usually switchable on the transmitter by programming them through the programming port, setting internal jumpers or dip switches or something like that. Usually the throttle stick doesn't have a return-to-centre spring so you may need to manually open it up and move the spring around if it's not on the stick you want it on.
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