Ok i get ya.

So do you have to take the side off the door to put the padding in or can you sqeeese it threw the speaker hole and just prop it up or dose it have to be stuck down? There are three types of padding at jaycar im thinking of using the 27 rated one when i get a car as its the highest rated padding they have.

As for the component speakers the tweeter is for the high frequencys and the speaker part is for midrange and bass or just midrang or bass?

If its just for bass is there any other typ of speaker witch is only dedicated to the high frequencys\sounds and no bass cos i dont kneed any bass from my speakers?

LOL found this on net on alltheweb.com i typed in car audio and it cam up with the name "georges car " and it allso has kicker brand sound system lol http://www.projecttwo.com/installs/1998eclipse/georges-car-003.jpg

http://www.projecttwo.com/installs/1998eclipse/georges-car-004.jpg

Did you get a new car george?
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Tim Team Reaper.

Q. So do you have to take the side off the door to put the padding in.
A. - Yes u doofus, try putting the window up and down whilst doing it to find a position that gives u a big gap somewhere.

Q. just prop it up or dose it have to be stuck down?
A. - Needs some form of attaching so it doesnt interfere with the window mechanism. try to keep a clean edge near the speaker at least.

Q. As for the component speakers the tweeter is for the high frequencys and the speaker part is for midrange and bass or just midrang or bass?
A. Out of the box the splits will try to play Highs, midrange and bass. Its only with the addition of crossovers that you can play one or the either.

Q. If its just for bass is there any other typ of speaker witch is only dedicated to the high frequencys\sounds and no bass cos i dont kneed any bass from my speakers?
A. Its not just for bass, subwoofers are just for bass, speakers in splits are just called woofers. They cant play subsonic frequencies which subwoofers can. But u would probably still want some bass out of your splits or at least some mid bass.
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So with the back shelf do you have to line the entire gap under it with the padding?


Allso at what wattage amp do you start to kneed a cap?
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Tim Team Reaper.

So with the back shelf do you have to line the entire gap under it with the padding?
Not really, but I just wanted to dampen it as much as possible but if you wanted to use your boot as the speaker box u need to try to seal all holes between the boot and the interior.

Allso at what wattage amp do you start to kneed a cap?[/quote]
Splits and 2 ways and three way speakers already come with caps in them.
I think (guessing) that caps on speakers are a bit like caps on motors. they filter out certain frequencies so its like asking at what voltage should u put caps on your motors to help reduce interference.
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I mean the big cap that gose on the amp?


Another thing as all the speakers are hooked up to the amp leaving the 4x 40-50watts un used on the head unti is it worth buying some $5 tweeters 40watt rms from jaycar and filling them up?
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Tim Team Reaper.

Last edited by timmeh on Thu Jun 30, 2005 10:09 pm; edited 1 time in total

I found u end up turning the gain of the amp down just so u get to hear the amp in the head unit.
In the end prob not worth it as u have to turn everything else down to match, so what was the point of getting the amp if u have to turn it down to suit the head unit.
Some decks have powerful amps in them so it really depends what u are doing.

Havent got a big cap myself so dont know. Dont know if it matters anyway
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OK yeah i suppose like you sed you emd up with one frequency louder then the other too.


Ill stick to the 3wayys and the splits and ill have it all running off the same amp incl the sub as i can bride 2 channels for the sub and switch on the low pass filter and tune it to the right frequency and then keep the other speakers on high pass and tune them right as the amp has a crossover for the sub and separet tunning for eack set of channels.
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Tim Team Reaper.

The "Big Cap" is a "stiffener" for your amplifiers power supply.

It offers a low-impedance reservoir of instantaneous high-current power situated close by to your amplifier, allowing it to suddenly draw hundreds of amps of surge power without cable voltage drop to shove the big bass speakers about crisply.

If your car batterie(s) are good beefy ones. AND the power cable to your amps is nice and fat AND reasonably short, then you probably dont need one.

In fact you probably dont need one anyway, even if your power feed is a little on the wimpy side and a bit long, unless ultra-bass clarity is important to you at very high power levels.

*If* you have at least 200 watts RMS going into your subs, with the car battery up the front, which is a little on the small side, with the amps down the back, only use moderate gauge wire to hook them up, and are determined to get every bit of D out of your Doof, rather than a Woof (due to voltage sag), then it might be worth adding a cap closeby to your amp.

Its not so much the wattage of the amps that determines whether you need a cap or not, as it is how well your power supply and cables can *feed* that wattage. If the feed is underrated, a cap can help patch it up, but only for a split second, its better to improve the feed rather than band-aid it, unless you are running spaastically high power levels (or want people to think you are In most cases, they're a show rather than go item, with LED status displays, big gold terminals and fluro lit perspex to make them look tuff )..

(p.s., the caps on the speakers perform a totally different function, They're part of the "crossovers" which filter out different frequencies to go to different parts of the multi-way speaker)
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If you want to save yourself some cash, use a small SLA battery mounted next to the amp instead of the big cap.

I've found that it works very well if your amp power feed isn't super massive. Since music is a bunch of peaks rather than a continuous draw the small battery provides the peak output, and keeps its charge topped up in between.

The other way to do it, which I've also done, is a bit more involved.
Car audio amps have a switch mode DC-DC converter in them to step the 12v input power up to + and - 30-50v power rails to run the amp's output stage.
As an example, you feed in 12v at 50A, and it makes 60v at 10A for the amplifier (assuming 100% efficiency - normally more like 70-80%).

The amp has power supply filter caps after the DC-DC converter, which are obviously rated high enough for the operating voltage (usually 35-60v caps) and are generally only a few thousand microfarads each due to size and cost restrictions.
Logically though, given the currents involved, and the resistance of cabling, efficiency of the power supply, etc the best possible place to provide a capacitor bank is right at the power amp. Normally peak loads have to be supplied all the way through the DC-DC converter before they get to the speakers, which slows the amp's transient response.

So, if you replace the small power caps in the amp with larger ones you'll improve the amp's peak power output, speed up its transient response, improve the DC-DC converter efficiency, reduce the 12v power cable current requirements, and generally get better sound.
These caps are usually only a few dollars each for ~4700uF 50V caps or similar.

The down side is that you're pulling apart your amp, which will void the warranty. Some amps might not like it either, as it'll increase the inrush current in the DC-DC converter. If it's a bit on the edge already it could blow MOSFETs or fuses, but I've never had a problem.
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The Engine Whisperer - fixer of things

quote:

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Originally posted by DumHed:
If you want to save yourself some cash, use a small SLA battery mounted next to the amp instead of the big cap.

I've found that it works very well if your amp power feed isn't super massive. Since music is a bunch of peaks rather than a continuous draw the small battery provides the peak output, and keeps its charge topped up in between.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by DumHed:
If you want to save yourself some cash, use a small SLA battery mounted next to the amp instead of the big cap.

I've found that it works very well if your amp power feed isn't super massive. Since music is a bunch of peaks rather than a continuous draw the small battery provides the peak output, and keeps its charge topped up in between.

---

i think hawkers can charge from un rectified power, i thought that was their gimmick... ive seen an american yokel team that chargers their SLAs from a washing machine motor driving a car altenator..
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LMAO!!

HEY CLEEDUS GETS OF DE DAMN ROOF I GATSA POSSUM FOR YEH.
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Tim Team Reaper.

rectified power means DC you will need DC power to charge a battery
(specifically DC of a higher voltage than the batterys current voltage)

car alternators put out DC and a fairly decent DC at that (for charging batteries, anything else its craphouse)

my concern with the SLA would be SLA's typically have a lower charged voltage than a wet battery so you may run the risk of blowing the SLA up (eventually)
either way it isnt going to be a happy chappy but for $10 Vs $100 eh

i believe the technical decision point for knowing when you need a cap/alternate power is when the doof dims your cars lights.
at that point a cap is probbly a good idea.

you need either a big cap or another battery when the doof stalls your car.


hrm i wonder if those 55f supercaps from jaycar have the doof for it.
6 of them ~$60 (2.5v ea)
55 farads in a 40mm x 18mm package.
500 000 cycle life ~ 70 hours of 120bpm doofage
though i spose thats more techno type stuff than your average doofmobile plays
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RE6704&CATID=&keywords=supercap&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=\


btw a sugestion if you are putting a battery at the back
you may want to put a fuse on each side of it one for the amp and another for the cables running back to the main battery.
i have heard a few stories about people setting their cars on fire when the cable wears through and contacts the body, normally the fuse near the battery would protect you but if you have now energised it all the way back...
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yes, definitely fuse everything!

The big car stereo caps are usually 1 farad, at 20V, and cost around $250 for a decent one from what I've seen...

For that money I'd write off the warranty on the amp and put $20 worth of caps in it for better results!

Otherwise the cheapo SLA will work fine. The slightly higher than optimal charge voltage shouldn't be a problem since the wiring and amp current draw will keep the voltage down a little bit.
Either way I never found it to be a problem, but I didn't have it going for years or anything.

Car power is not too bad, because the main car battery works like a really big capacitor, and smoothes it all out

When I had an SLA on my amp it worked fine when the car was running, but if I turned off the engine I'd only get about 10 seconds of full volume use before the amp would start sounding bad due to the SLA voltage dropping - so we're talking pretty serious current!!

Since the amp's drawing power in such short pulses you won't really cycle the SLA at all, but it's still possibly not an SLA's dream lifestyle
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