its solid state and optically isolated as far as i am aware
there is no coil to get kickback off. basically its like driving an LED i believe.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

I was thinking more on the power side, If the current through the mosfet's body diode will cause the ssr to get a bit warm. If it does then I will use an external reverse parallel diode.

that will only be conducting for the few ms after the motor is off, since your not PWMing with the thing it really shouldn't have a chance to get warm
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

Of course it will...
I guess my mind is permanently set to think PWM

On a FBS where the shell is probably more than ½ the weight of the bot the regen energy is probably significant.
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Satisfaction is proportional to effort and results.

In that case a 1004 isnt going to cut the mustard ;->

I think mike is also a fan of clamping to the battery anyway so that sounds better to me.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

heh,
I've got the 35A bridge diodes in mind, which can be made into 2 in parallel by shorting the two sides together. I guess I'll just throw that across the battery, along with a nice looking cap.

heh, I've been having a bit of a space battle from the beginning, but I just noticed that I get an extra few mm's by mounting the wheels backwards

I'll buy a 6" pulley so I can just bolt the hub straight onto the pulley, without trying to make a funky adapter. If I match that with a 2", I get about 5mm of clearance between them

I ended up with a 6 1/2" pulley matched with a 1 1/4" for the motor. I swear there's less room in this thing everyday. After half a dozen calcs, I end up with a spin up time of half a second, which is a consolation for my maximum speed being 800rpm. Therefore the energy stored in my rim is about 2kJ.

I think I have almost everything to build now, except for a new tap wrench for my M14 tap. And maybe some smaller motors.

just a word wrt your diode selection. for your clamp diodes you probably want to get ultrafast type diodes, the spikes are pretty quick.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

I'm going to find it hard to find a high rated ultrafast diode, so do I use two diodes with a low inductance resister on the fast diode, or can I use a cap and a regular diode?
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

i'm just using 4A diodes.
They aren't conducting continuously so it shouldn't be too bad.
I am putting some caps where the battery connects to the bridge to help absorb the spikes too I hope to try it out tonight with PWM and all the fun stuff with our new controller.
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Mechanical engineers build weapons, civil engineers build targets

I managed to drill and tap my pulley without too much effort. I tried using a light oil to help with the cutting, as it worked quite well on the steel, but it prevented any drilling on this ali alloy. I didn't bother trying to use it again.

I'm going to change from UHMW to stainless for my base material so I can lose some weight from the rim. It'll also make it shorter, resulting in less upside-down time
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

After posting on the Unitedhobbies forum, Miljenko suggested the LCD-hexTronik 63-45 330kv Brushless Motor as a replacement for my ev warrior. I really wanted something under 50mm, and this comes in at 45mm. I needed this because I weighed everything today and it came in at 14.4kg
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They say that he crossed the fine line, from insanity to genius.

Nice motor . It just so happens I have one of those on there way to me already.

Have you seen this info:

http://www.unitedhobbies.com/community/forum_posts.asp?TID=382
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Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world.
Albert Einstein.