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Thomas AIC
Joined: 22 Jun 2009
Posts: 151
Location: Canberra
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Toolbox - Team calamity - NSW
This is my first bot and, being a noob. it is going to have an active weapon!
Class: Featherweight
Armour: 2-3mm tread-board aluminum reinforced at the front with rear and side wedges
Chassis: tubular - built around Armour
Drive: 12v Kmart drills
Weapon motor: brushless 50A max current out runner running at around 16v
Controller: RC hobby ESC's.
Weapon: frontal claw - clamper, linear actuated.
Wheels: red wheels
Batteries: drill packs or other Ni Cad's.
Due to the price of thick sheet metals from bunnings I bought a strong metal toolbox (thus the name) to which I am building my design around, the wedges will be pretty much disposable armour they are only there to put some space between my electronics and spinning blades/disks, the front is going to be reinforced with a grid of square tubing bolted to it.
The only thing I am worried about is what to make the claw out of, due to ease of bending, I am planning on using 2 sizes of round aluminum pipe sleeved in each other and a chisel welded to the contact point.
if there are any fatal flaws with my design, such as weight or rule infringements, anything at all, please let me know. the drive is done and I am going to pick and payless tomorrow for the actuator/s. I know the best way to get them is out of a chair in a vn commodore but are there any specific extraction tools I need, and around how much will they charge me for 1 actuator?
also, I am looking for 3 drill packs to a good home. and specifically to dyrodium I am interested in the purchase of your nicad packs.
thanks for your time!
cheeseboy
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Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:33 pm |
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Rob Team Rotwang
Joined: 19 Jun 2004
Posts: 294
Location: Victoria
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Heres a pic so you know what to look for, the model commodore might be later than VN, not sure when it changed over but VT would use these too, if your at the wreckers just check any car with electric seats.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7027.jpg
I suggest you just start of at stock voltage and not worry about brushless mods, get it working then try ramp the power up gradually, is how we prefer to do it. At stock voltage they will survive a stall for a few seconds, so limit switches arent as necessary, possibly include a thermal circuit breaker for safety.
For high speed and good power your probubly better off with a recirculating ball one with a cage that hits an end stop so the worm shaft keeps spinning when the nut reaches the endof its travel, so you dont have to stop a motor suddenly at the end of the travel
Some of these actuators have plastic parts that arent as easily modified, the one in the picture has metal nut end which is handy if your welding.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b389/762378/IMG_7032.jpg
Look for pictures or videos of pincher or kingpincher (nexus bots) and also scoopy doo's overhead arm for these actuators in action
scoopy doo vs ig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPfou2exxMs&feature=related
king pinscher
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fDBpk7wJJs
pinscher
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gnB1oqZbHA&feature=related
As far as we know none have malfunctioned/burntout/stripped gears in an australian robot but then again glen or unco havent used them yet :plolol
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Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:55 am |
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