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dyrodium
Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 6476
Location: Sydney
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I'm back! (and have problems...)
Hello! I am back from my holls, ready to begin my bot, however, I have a few questions...
1. what is the best remote I should get (quality and price-wise and I really am only after 3 channels to initialy be used in servo-switching style). I will probably be going to hobby-co for it, unless any of you guys know a better "local" seller.
2. Are big or small wheels better? I know small wheels are concealable, but big wheels will have alot of traction and will "ride up" over most robots, but I'm really fearing Basilisk here.
3. Is jaycar electronics good? They have some good looking 12v motors with gearboxes which have 50kg per cm of torque (to be used instead of drill motors) and a pretty good range of SLA batteries.
4. Lastly, how do you best control your bot? With lego robotics (which I use to test designs) the remote control is "tank style", with a foward and back button for each motor. If i bought a conventional radio, (for a car) the right side stick would be on the side! How do you overcome this? Do you just learn how to drive like that?
Thanks and happy new year . _________________ ( •_•)
( •_•)>⌐■-■
(⌐■_■)
YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH
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Fri Dec 31, 2004 7:51 pm |
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Glen
Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 16 Jun 2004
Posts: 9481
Location: Where you least expect
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okay radios -
you will eventually need 3 channels at least so thats good thinking. do you prefer wheel type radios (the ones with the wheels and triggers on them) or the stick type (the ones with the two sticks on the transmitter)? if you prefer the wheel radio, well then i would say get an Airtronics mx-3 radio for $200. but if you want a stick radio, then the futaba skysports 4 is hard to beat at about the same price. you can buy those two types from hobbyco
HOWEVER - i hugely urge you to buy these type of radios - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAAD7**&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAG5**&P=0
why? because they are 72-75mhz which means you can use a special antenna called a deans antenna which is TINY compared to most, and they cost about the same price as a normal radio anyway, so i would suggest you buy from www.towerhobbies.com for that reason.
okay second question.
big wheels are a disadvantage often because your robot will subsequently have to be really tall. riding up over bots isnt really good as they will just push you around that way, so i would say small wheels all the way.
however some types of drive systems like kiddy car motors/gearboxes need a big wheel to go a decent speed because the shaft turns so slow.
another thing to remember is that big wheels can also put alot more force on the gearbox/motor and can lead them to break or blow the motor. drills are a good example.
third question -
jaycar are great for wires and connectors and things. but stay away from those little motors and gearboxes for now. they are way to underpowered in there ratings and at $50 each way to expensive. not to mention the gearboxes look prone to breaking.
the slas are what i use. there better than the super cheap ones BUT i would personally say just buy some drills (for your drive) and use the nicads as the power source as SLAs will only last a few events whereas the nicads will last for yonks. if you want i can resolder all the drill packs together to make a super pack
fourth question -
lol i have the same lego kit and the real way we drive is much different. im assuming your lego thing has 4 buttons, two on either side and one button makes the left go foward, another makes the left go back etc.
well basically in a stick type radio you just use one of the sticks. the stick can move fowards, back, side to side, diagonal etc so basically you move the stick to the left to turn (spin on the spot) and move it right to spin right. and to go fowards you move the stick foward and vice versa for reverse.
in a wheel type radio the wheel turns the robot and the trigger makes it go fowards and reverse.
HOWEVER you will need a device called a mixer to do this that just plugs right into the reciever (if you buy an IBC it will do it all for you.) that allows you to use one stick. there pretty well essential.
i assume your using microswitches and servos to control the bot as well btw?
hope that answers your questions, happy building and if you have any other questions dont be scared to ask _________________ www.demon50s.com - Minimoto parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/HyzerGlen - Videoooozzz
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Fri Dec 31, 2004 8:10 pm |
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Giant Robo
Experienced Roboteer
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
Posts: 583
Location: Marayong NSW
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Hi Angus!
If you are going to Hobbyco, personally, I wouldn`t go past the Skysport 4, for just under $200 you never know when you might want an extra chanel.
I like the XU1 drills from Bunnings, you can use everything from them and I have lots of spare batteries I can pass on to you. Also a set of Nicks motor mounts that are great but I have not used yet. I would be happy to donate.
Glen likes the the drills from Super Cheap, they work very well for him but I havn`t tried them yet. I have only used the drill triggers from the XU1`s for speed controlers but they are probably the same. They are a bit tricky to make and I am not completely happy with them yet so I would suggest micro switches to start with. Chris has never had a problem with his set up and Prong uses them with great success. You want the 10 amp ones from Dick Smith not the 5 amp ones from J car. They are the little black boxes with the silver trigger arm on them.
Bunings red wheels are the easiest ones to start with, they go on easily, you do need to grind the hub down a bit and use a couple of washers.
The Robo Wars home page and also Team Vertex website have great drill drive tutorials. There are also simple mods where you don`t need grub screws.
I am on holidays until the 17th, If you get some parts and would like to arrange a day I`m sure Glen, Andrew, Wayde etc. and myself would be happy to help you assemble a basic drive/ control set up. its so much easier to demonstrate in person.
The actual comp dosn`t start again until late Feb. giving us all plenty of time to get ready for the new year but It is up to anyone to suggest build/ testing, muck around days until then.
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Fri Dec 31, 2004 9:26 pm |
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